mechanical clutch issues after body swap

mechanical clutch issues after body swap

canuckcj5

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british columbia,canada
Vehicle(s)
76 body,81 frame, bored & stroked 366ci, d44/M20, chromoly everything, 35`s d300 twin sticked with 4.1,np435 trans,locked front and rear on 35`s
so i bought a new clutch linkage assembly from morristown4x4, but the tube peice that goes from the body to the transmission is too short, i have a 1" body lift in the cj, and it almost looks like the body is sitting too far foreward or something, im not really sure whats going on, and its not sitting straight either, the only way that the linkage auctually connects at all is if its fully extended like so..
-049C-47A6-9C3A-027EDB514E5B-2439-0000034A7716DFE7.jpg

does anyone know if you can buy this peice longer or not? the original linkage off the 76 and off the 81 are the same length, so im not too sure why its not lining up properly since the body swap
nick
 
I would say that the new body where it bolts up versus the old were either not in the same location or perhaps the body wasn't mounted in the same place.............and yes the lift will effect the linkage............So I'm afraid you have what you have , but I would just look at modifying those attachments points on both sides so that you can correct the linkage..........perhaps a spacer on the bolted on portion but you still want to move the ball on the opposite site........since the body is higher the clutch rod from the pedal may also need to be extended.
 
If you have access to get it or make it, get a piece of flat bar stock. Say, 3/8" (or 9.5250mm) by about 3", ( or 76.2mm) long and about 1.5" ( or 38.1mm) and drill holes to mount to body and drill and tap new holes to mount the bracket lower. Mock it up and see how it works. You will have to extend the rod that goes through the firewall to the clutch. Just get a piece of pipe that the rod will slip inside of. Cut the rod, hook up each end, (bracket and pedal with pipe in place loosely), and weld the pipe ends to the rod. Clear as mud?


This won't be too expensive Dear! That's what I keep saying. Over and over again.
 
did a bunch of measuring today, after my first post, im 1.5" short and a 1.5" out, to make the linkage true and straight, so what i did is i went to my local steel supplier and got a 1`0 long peice of tube stock, to slip over top of that after i cut it in half, going to mock it all up and tack weld it all before i burn it all into place, off the bell housing im gonna need a 1.5" peice of square hss stock, about 2 inches long, i think it will work no problem, just gotta get the time to do it tommorrow, ill post pics asap once i get it figured out ;)
 
Humm sounds like the body might be off. Body lift doesn't help.

Does it bolt to the frame or body? Two hole bracket showing in your pic goes to the tranny?

Check to make sure the rod will clear the tub. Going to have to extend the rod as well because of the body lift.

I ditched the mechanical and went hydraulic. When really twisting the frame, I would lose the clutch. No more :D
 
What trans are u running thou? I would love to run a hydraulic setup on it, but this will have to do for now,
 
What trans are u running thou? I would love to run a hydraulic setup on it, but this will have to do for now,

:)Really doesn't matter what the Trans is 73 makes a good point, a small 13/16" bore master on the firewall and a 3/4" slave bolted alongside the Bell Housing a short piece of hose and your in business......maybe $200 bucks! Something to think about?

:D:D:D:D
 
Oh I missed the 383 neat! Dodge or punched out 360?

I'm running a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l and had a bellcrank like yours. The slave mounts where the 2 hole bracket goes. Made a longer rod for it and BINGO.

Parts from a early 90s CJ.
 
I was thinking of getting this slave from Novak conversions
Hydraulic Slave Cylinder Retrofit for AMC Engines

The trans is a np435 with a amc bell housing, then was gonna use a master cylinder off of a f150 or something,

:)The Novak setup is the best on the market........I have used them before and that slave has about 2"00 of travel.............The key is matching the "Correct" Master with that...The 1980 Cj's with the GM Iron Duke 4 Banger is where the system originated...........the part# for that 13/16" cylinder is Dorman # CM 106439............with that I would probably use the 3/4" slave. If you decide to go that way I can help you in getting the correct ratio off the pedal and therefore the correct mounting position also on the firewall for the Master.

:D:D:D:D
 
So 3/4" bore slave and the. The dorman master that u have posted above and we'll be golden? Sweeet, once I get some cash I'll order all of this stuff,

Thanks a lot, I appreciate it big time
 
Ouch that's a spendy way, but Novak makes good stuff.

I used this article but can't find the actual link which had a real write up. These guys just ripped his photo.

http://extremecustomparts.com/attachment/24596-Instructions1.jpg

search
 
Hmmmmm,I'll do some googling today n see what I come up with,
 
When i did my hydro clutch i used ford parts out of a 1988 f-AMC 150 with the T-18
 
With a amc bell housing u were able to fit the ford slave? Was there much modifying to do with it?
 
I had to build a braket for the ford salve. Some cutting and wielding, drilled 2 more holes in the bellhousing. It wasn't bad at all.
 
Sooooo here's what I did, I took a Peice of 1.5x1.5 square hss, drilled to holes in it then mounted that to the bell housing,then cut the bellcrank adapter in half, got some 1" tubing to sleeve it with,
1-0169-4BE3-8347-4D4D22035650-207-0000000F7F146FBE.jpg

Then bolted it all up, adjusted the linkage at the bell housing for the 1.5" that I moved it forward, then tacked it into place
8-DD9E-4D44-8A4F-64CA721D29D7-207-0000000F84356328.jpg
A-3DA3-4F61-A25F-D192319BC1D2-207-0000000F89EB2AE9.jpg
Adjust,cut,tack,adjust,tack,cut,adjust,tack,cut, finally got it to my liking then burned it all together,
5-6531-4D2E-90A3-BF64BDFEB120-207-0000000F8FD30A3F.jpg
I'll put it back in tommorrow and see how it works,
Nick,
 

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