More Progress

[Jason S]

I started off with getting the equalizer bar in the rear pasenger brake assembly, but I didnt get something together right. So I need to pull the wheel again and figure out where I went wrong. Everything was put back together the same way it came apart, but I think that I might not have gotten the links to seat properly in the pistons for the wheel cylinder. I decided to take a break from the brakes for a moment and start on the fron axle.

I figured that since the rear axle, tcase, and tranny all had OK looking oil, and no evidence of water, then the front would be about the same. I found that that is not always the case. Once I broke the seal on the diff cover, I had straight water coming out. Once I got more of the cover off, the 'oil' made an appearance. It smelled burnt and was the consistancy of cake batter. It was cold in the garage, upper 30's I think, but not cold enough to make the oil that thick.

That's the water on the right side of the pan.



This was not an action shot. It took almost a full minute for that 'drip' to drip into the pan.



The next step was to pull the hubs. A lack of all necessary tools brought me to a stop for the evening. I did get far enough to take these.




Does anyone know what size socket I will need to take the nut off of the hub, or is it the slotted variety? I need to get a pair of C-clip pliers and would rather get the socket on the same trip.

 

[IOPort51]

I believe it is a 2 1/16. There is a socket sold by most auto parts stores but if you can't find one there they are sold at 4wd parts for about $10. the socket is made of a section of thin walled pipe bent to fit the nut with a cap welded on one end with a 1/2 inch square hole in it. The only place I have heard of that may have a real socket is Snapon, you can imagine what that one costs.
I recommend you pick up 2 or three cans of Brake cleaner to hose out the differential and clean the hubs/wheel bearings. Do wear glasses or even goggles when using brake cleaner, it really hurts when it gets in your eyes. For that matter it's not too great when you get it on your skin.

 

[justinkase]

At least no one took a screwdriver and hammer to that nut like the po did on mine.

 

[Jason S]

IO: I usually have at least one pair of safety glasses around. I can tell you from experience that brake clean is nothing compared to carb cleaner. I got some of that in my eye once and ran straight for the water hose to flush it out. I lucked out and didn't do permanent damage. Now, I always wear safety glasses if something can reflect back at my face. They aren't 100%, but I haven't had to run and hose my face down since I started wearing them. Besides, $4.99 at at Wally world is cheaper than a visit to the emergency room and follow up visits to a specialist.


Justinkase: From what I understand, it is not uncommon to use a hammer and punch to get those nuts started. Once you break torque they should just come off by hand. I had a 4x4 Ford Econoline van, that I had no choice other than to use a hammer and punch because the nut was so chewed up by previous owners. The van was one of those pathfinder 4x4 conversions. I miss that van, but it wa a litttle too much project for me at the time.

 

[justinkase]

I did not know that was an alternative method. I would feel bad for the things I said to myself about him when I saw it, but there is so much more he did wrong that is costing me now.

There is a newer one of those vans here in town that is set up for serious off road. Lift kit, 35', front and rear warn winches and bumpers you could hit a buffalo with. Not my thing but looks like a lot of fun.

 

[Old Dog]

Here's the socket IO spoke of. Spindle Nut Socket: 1/2 Drive A692N by the Jeep Specialists | Morris 4x4 Center
I bought mine at a local auto store though.

Have fun with that mess. Good thing you checked it before you junked it.