Moser axle users - need help

[lowcountry]

Ok, so I thought all was going well. I read the 'vague' instructions many times and figured I was all set. So, you're supposed to install the inner seal first. Did that. Then install the "bearing spacer ring". Then test fit the bearing. With all installed, there should be 0.020-0.080" of the bearing sticking out from the housing.

I played around with these parts a bit and decided that I didn't want to 'seat' the bearing spacer during mock-up for fear of not being able to remove it easily to modify. So I took a lot of time and took very accurate measurements and determined that I needed to remove 0.035" from the spacer to achieve their recommendation (midway their tolerance). I then installed the modified spacer and used a 2" pvc coupling to 'seat' the spacer. I then installed the bearing and took measurements. The bearing is still protruding ~0.AMC 150 ".

I used a hammer to lightly, but soundly seat the spacer. In a manner I have used previously when working with bearings. But there still is a 'gap' between the inner oil seal and the "spacer'. I am not sure if the spacer is supposed to rest up against the seal or what, or where the spacer is supposed to terminate.

My main question is, what kind of gap, if any did ya'll have between the seal face and the 'spacer'.?

If it weren't Saturday, I would call Moser. I was hoping to figure this out before Monday...

Mucho Gracias for any help.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Make sure the the inner seal is seated where it should be.
I have had very good luck using my larger diameter sockets as a 'seating-tool'.
Make sure the spacer is seated 'square' to the inside of the axle tube. Very easy to get it at an angle and not know it.
LG

 

[lowcountry]

Make sure the the inner seal is seated where it should be.
I have had very good luck using my larger diameter sockets as a 'seating-tool'.
Make sure the spacer is seated 'square' to the inside of the axle tube. Very easy to get it at an angle and not know it.
LG

I understand about being 'square'. Also, there is no definitive 'positive stop' for the seal. The ID of the axle tube 'tapers' up at a point where the seal seats.

I think I have the seal where it is supposed to be. My question is where is the spacer supposed to be relative to the seal? Do they touch? Right now I have a space between the two. It would take much more force to move the spacer back against the seal. That is the question. Should it take a huge effort to move it into place? That is why I didn't want to do that initially when mocking it up. I was afraid it would be to hard to remove it without screwing things up...

 

[lowcountry]

No one else has installed a one piece Moser?

The whole procedure is kind of hokey. There is no real 'stop' for the seal as it tapers up at the end. I could keep pushing on it until it wedged somewhere up that taper. Right now I think the seal is 'seated against the start of the taper.

But the spacer seems to have stopped somewhat short of the seal. There is a small counter bore in the tube. I'm wondering if the outer edge of the spacer is supposed to seat there...

 

[Belizean]

No one else has installed a one piece Moser?

The whole procedure is kind of hokey. There is no real 'stop' for the seal as it tapers up at the end. I could keep pushing on it until it wedged somewhere up that taper. Right now I think the seal is 'seated against the start of the taper.

But the spacer seems to have stopped somewhat short of the seal. There is a small counter bore in the tube. I'm wondering if the outer edge of the spacer is supposed to seat there...

I have ! But it's been close to 25 years and I just don't recall. I even have a set of bearings and seals in the parts bin for 5 years now that I need to install someday. I may just pass them on to the future owner

 

[lowcountry]

I have ! But it's been close to 25 years and I just don't recall. I even have a set of bearings and seals in the parts bin for 5 years now that I need to install someday. I may just pass them on to the future owner

Thanks anyway!

 

[Lumpy Grits]

You can ck to OEM axle for the seal mark location. and measure back inside the tube.
IIRC-The spacer does not touch the inner seal.
LG

 

[lowcountry]

You can ck to OEM axle for the seal mark location. and measure back inside the tube.
IIRC-The spacer does not touch the inner seal.
LG

Ok, more info. I am installing the Moser axles to replace an older set of one piece axles, so I don't have an oem for comparison.

The old set of axles had the same bearings and spacer, except the spacer had not been modified as Moser is suggesting. They used spacers between the axle flange and the backing plate.

I can see now how things are supposed to line up. Correct, the spacer does not contact the inner seal. The spacer has a stepped OD. The smaller OD end goes in first. The larger OD seats against the offset (smaller ID) in the housing bore. You're supposed to grind off material on the "larger OD' end of the spacer to get the bearing protrusion into the 0.020 - 0.080" range.

I have already ground off 0.035" leaving ~0.095" of material left on that larger OD. I will need to grind off another 0.045" to get to a point where the bearing is sticking out 0.080" - the upper end of the tolerance. This leaves about 0.050" of material to 'seat' against counter bore in the housing. Does not seem like much to me...

Anyway, I have probably confused everyone now to the point of losing interest. I guess I'll have to wait until tomorrow and see what Moser says...

 

[Belizean]

So I have a question. The spacer you are talking about. Between axel flange and backing plate. Is that the shims on the drivers side ? Mine had 4 or 5 that went back on as I recall.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Make sure the axle bearing is fully seated on the axle shaft.

LG

 

[lowcountry]

So I have a question. The spacer you are talking about. Between axel flange and backing plate. Is that the shims on the drivers side ? Mine had 4 or 5 that went back on as I recall.

Sorry, I used the wrong word. Yes, they were shims. But, I'm trying to follow Moser's instructions and they don't use shims. I think the shims were used with the old style axles. Anyway, I don't think it matters whether you use shims or a spacer that has been ground to the right thickness, as long as you are in the bearing protrusion tolerance (0.020-0.080").

Funny you should ask that question, because now that I think I understand the game plan, I decided to use both shims and the spacer to achieve the right bearing position.

 

[lowcountry]

Make sure the axle bearing is fully seated on the axle shaft.

LG

I hear ya. That be part of the plan...

thanks.

 

[Belizean]

Curious how the spacer is ground down by a guy out in the driveway ? Forgot to mention the shims were actually on my original 2 piece axel on drivers side only.

 

[lowcountry]

Curious how the spacer is ground down by a guy out in the driveway ? Forgot to mention the shims were actually on my original 2 piece axel on drivers side only.

Yeah, Moser probably gets a good laugh with that directive. I have read on another forum about people using sanders. I guess that would work if you were careful about keeping it square. I have access to shop equipment and did mine on a lathe.

 

[Kane]

I ran Moser axles for 25 years. Mine came with SET9 roller bearings and a shrink sleeve to hold it in place on the axle. I spoke with them on the phone about this bearing in the past because over the course of the 25 years I had to replace 2 sets of bearings mainly because I put tons of miles on the CJ. All I ever did was install the seal into the housing. Install the backing plate, bearing and sleeve in that order onto each shaft and fully press them in. Put the axles in the housing and drive the Jeep. After you install the axle and have the back plate bolted in just push and pull on it to see if you have a little bit of play. There shouldn't be a whole lot but since these are roller bearings and not tapered, the end play is not critical. The bearing doesn't care about the end play.

EDIT. I just saw you other post about the outer seal. Mine did not come with the outer seal so this is why my post may not make total sense to you.

 

[lowcountry]

I ran Moser axles for 25 years. Mine came with SET9 roller bearings and a shrink sleeve to hold it in place on the axle. I spoke with them on the phone about this bearing in the past because over the course of the 25 years I had to replace 2 sets of bearings mainly because I put tons of miles on the CJ. All I ever did was install the seal into the housing. Install the backing plate, bearing and sleeve in that order onto each shaft and fully press them in. Put the axles in the housing and drive the Jeep. After you install the axle and have the back plate bolted in just push and pull on it to see if you have a little bit of play. There shouldn't be a whole lot but since these are roller bearings and not tapered, the end play is not critical. The bearing doesn't care about the end play.

EDIT. I just saw you other post about the outer seal. Mine did not come with the outer seal so this is why my post may not make total sense to you.

I think I'm beginning to understand how all this is intended to go together now, along with the stated wide tolerances that seemed strange at first. Your input added another layer of confidence to my thinking. Mucho Gracias.

 

[Masscj7]

I have a set of G2 one piece axles that I'm in process of installing. Similar set. Inner seal, spacer, bearing and you need to tolerance the the spacer for proper bearing preload. I was wondering the same thing about the inner seal stopping point as I've got pretty big variance between the two sides on what needs to be removed. As well is I'm wondering how square the seal was, or if it was fully seated. I'll be back at it today and I'll snag some pics

 

[Masscj7]

Hope this might help you.

So G2 uses this set up. With seal in first, then spacer that you’ll machine to size and then bearing. Bearing will be pressed on shaft with bearing retainer. I found need to take .040 off passenger side and .065 off driver side.

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