Motorcraft 2100 replacement

Motorcraft 2100 replacement

sammymcgee

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So after gathering the parts and doing the research, I decided to swap out the carter and put on a Motorcraft 2100 carb on my 82 CJ8. What sounded simple has a problem. How does one mount the adapter plate to the manifold? More specifically, how do I remove the existing bolts from the manifold that held the carter on? They are on there pretty good and I can't seem to figure out how to remove them. Thanks!
 
First off, welcome to the site sammymcgee :ww:


The easiest way to remove the old carb mounting studs out of manifold is to double nut them. Like this pic, except on the stud, then use the lower nut to turn the stud out. A little WD40, PB Blaster or penetrating oil will help.

attachment.php


Once you get the old studs out of the manifold, you can use whatever bolts came with the adapter plate you purchased to secure the adapter to the manifold. Then you can you just SS hardware to attach the MC2100 to the adapter. Don't forget to put a gasket between the manifold and the adapter, and the adapter and the carb :chug:
 
Thanks for the help and for the welcome to the board. I am glad I found this place as when cjoffroad went offline I did not know where to turn for my cj help. Anyways, I was able to finally get the stud off with a combo of what you said. Now that I got the carb bolted on, I encountered a new problem. The fuel line inlet into the carb is larger on the carter than the motorcraft. As in anything, there is always going to be something to slow you down. Thanks for the help so far!
 
Thanks for the help and for the welcome to the board. I am glad I found this place as when cjoffroad went offline I did not know where to turn for my cj help. Anyways, I was able to finally get the stud off with a combo of what you said. Now that I got the carb bolted on, I encountered a new problem. The fuel line inlet into the carb is larger on the carter than the motorcraft. As in anything, there is always going to be something to slow you down. Thanks for the help so far!


Hey, no problem. There are a lot of folks here that use to frequent cjoffroad before it went down. The fuel inlet on the MC2100 is an easy change, just purchase a different one that is the same size as the fuel line that you're already using.

Trans Dapt Performance Brass Fuel Fittings - JEGS
 
there is another way to remove the studs, grab with vice grips and rotate counter clockwise. You won't be using them again and if you grab close enough to the manifold you will do no damage to the threads you would use if you needed to reuse them.
Elwood is right, that is the proper way and it will work in this instance quite well.:cool:
 
well I finally got the carb on and I cannot get the fast idle to rev down. It revs up to 3000 and continues until I have to turn it off. I have adjusted the fast idle screw all the way down. As for vacuum lines, I have a line going from the distributor to underneath the choke, PCV line going into the rear of carb, and a line that goes from the EGR to the CTD and then to the front of the carb. Not sure what could be causing this. I did try to follow Elwood's image as my model from http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f2/mc2100-help-google-aint-cutting-8933/ Any thoughts or ideas??? Thanks
 
you have vacuum leaks. I would start looking at the gasket under the adapter. I cheated and used a bit of gasket eliminator on mine, finely got it to seal.:cool:
 
do it sparingly, like a very thin coat of paint make sure the allen head bolts are tight.:D
 
Depending on were you got your carb!
The choke is set up for a manifold temp tube to the choke!
This is a vac leak!
The only way I could properly fix this was to take the carb off and flip it upside down. I tapped the hole and JB welded a 6x32 screw into it!
I have pictures on my other computer that I can post up!

I bet your choke is running at fast idle! 3000 rpm is really high even for a vac leak! Next to the choke there is a step cam with a screw set! make sur ethis isn't your problem.
I got whent to a manual choke! I like it!

Most guys find having vac leaks under the adapter! Many have problems getting the carb to idle under 900 rpm. Spray a little brake cleaner around the base and see if the idle raises! if it does! you have a vac leak and you need to fix it or you will never get it to run right!

Depending on you altitude! you may have to rejet! these carbs typically come with #47 or 48 jets. I am at 2500 feet and I had to rejet to #45's.

IMG_20111022_175135.png
 
Thanks for the tips so far. I have taken the carb off the manifold and used sealant between the adapter, gasket and carb and I have also plugged the heat tube off the choke and I am still idling above 3000 RPMs. I am aware of the step cam with a screw set and I have that set to the largest sprocket but not sure if this is correct. I am running out of ideas as to what is causing the fast idle. Any thoughts??? Thanks
 
How far out are the two screws at the bottom front of the carb?? number of turns.
 
try 2 1/4 turns out thats what i got mine at.
 
If you are screwing the mixture screws in with no changes you still have a/some vacuum leaks. are all the extra hose fittings capped?:cool:
 
All hoses are capped and I have capped everything on the MC. If a hose/port is not sealed all the way, would it cause the idle to rev to 3000rpms?? There were two ports that I was not sure if there were actually ports or not but I tried capping them as well with no luck. The ones in question is: where you screw in the heat tube from the manifold, there is a tee. Does this get blocked http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/attac...100-high-idle-help-mc2100-fast-idle-screw.jpg The second is on top where the air filter sits towards the back right next to the choke unit http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu329/blackrex1100/mc2100004.jpg Thoughts???
 
Lets start back at the beginning, where did the carb come from?? what work has been done on it and by who??:cool:
 
try putting it on the second step of the cam and see what it does.
 

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