Build Thread My 1976 cj5 build update

Build Thread My 1976 cj5 build update

Dennis 762

Middlefield Ohio
76 CJ5 AMC 304 T150 TRANS DANA 20 T-CASE
Here are some pics of the build


My 33 12.50 15 MTR W/ Kevlar

Frame painted with chassis saver paint


New crossmember and some frame repair

Lookin' pretty good so far... DO drill some weep holes in the bottom of that frame so condensate can drain out, though... drill 'em in all the lowest spots (front, rear, middle).

You might also want to stitch some fishplates across those vertical welds for extra protection.
BRRRRR.. that does look cold I bet you dont have a heater out there either...What size lift springs those?
BRRRRR.. that does look cold I bet you dont have a heater out there either...What size lift springs those?

It was 43 degrees we just have that much snow , we have a wood/coal burner in the garage.

The lift springs are 2.5 inch skyjacker and 1.75 boomerang shakles.
I think the boomerangs are supposed to boomerang the other way.
I think the boomerangs are supposed to boomerang the other way.

I was thinking the same thing. I also thought they were for yj's
This way they can be used for tow shackles. There's no huge difference which way they go, as long as that center pin doesn't hit anything (extremely unlikely in this case). Without the center pin, they're exactly equivalent to, and act exactly the same as, ordinary straight shackles with the same pin-to-pin distance; they don't perform any magical gyration or camming action.

If they ever clip the bumper, that'd be a good reason to reverse 'em... but it doesn't look like those springs can push 'em that far when they're fully flattened out.
Thanks for all the input on the shackles from what i have read it does not matter which way they go.
It shouldn't, as long as they clear everything when the springs are flattened under load.

Here's a quick way to verify that: Take the load off one of the springs & disconnect the shackle from that spring. Swing it out of the way towards the end of the frame. Lay a measuring tape along the INSIDE of the spring, holding it tight against the concave sprung surface. That way you can measure pin-to-pin distance of the flattened spring while the spring is still bowed.

Now measure from the pivot hanger to the pin you just took out of the shackle end. Move the shackle until that pin is at the same distance as you measured on the spring. That's the shackle position when the spring is fully loaded & flattened out completely. If the shackle's not in interference with the frame or bumper or anything else, you're golden... in which case I'd leave 'em like they are so they CAN be used for tow shackles.
That middle pin in each shackle isn't going to be connected to anything, true? So... hook a chain or cable or rope or strap onto that pin & you've got an ideal hookup. It's much better than just hooking or tying onto one leaf of the shackle, which can twist or bend the shackle, and it pulls on both the frame AND the axle. You get the best of all worlds with tow shackles.

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