My new '84 Jeep

[Harlen Shaw]

Hey guys this is my first post to this forum. I am hoping some of you can help me with my new jeep. I used to own a '99, until the engine went out. I just found this '84 CJ7 for 3000$. I figured I couldn't beat the deal and have always wanted something like this. The only problem is that the previous owner didn't know exactly what he had done to it other than, "he just did whatever he heard was best and paid for it to be done." The only thing he seems to know is that the engine is a AMC 304 AMC but I don't know how to tell. The whole jeep is very clean and seems to run great, minus when the tree got stuck beside the Transfer Case and Transmission and nocked out the cauter pin attaching the Transfer Case shifter to the Transfer Case and causing me to drive 5 mi home in low a few hrs ago lol. Anyways I am uploading the pics for it and hoping some of you may be able to identify some of the drive train parts for me so I know what I am dealing with.

Before I do that I have a couple of questions.

1. The Transfer Case only seems to have 2L 2H and 4H, I have never seen something like this but when it is in low only the back wheels turn. 2L is straight back, 2H is middle/forward, 4H is completely forward. Is this right?

2. When the front or rear wheels break traction I can hear and feel a clicking noise. Is this a sign of a locker? It doesn't do this under "normal" driving conditions only when excessive power is being provided and traction is lost.

3. Is the fiberglass tub a plus?

4. When acceleration is initially applied the engine stutters a bit. Any suggestions?


From these photos, if you can please identify the type of engine, Transmission , Transfer Case , and front and rear axels.

 

[Harlen Shaw]

cont

 

[Harlen Shaw]

continued

 

[Harlen Shaw]

The pictures are from front to rear. Engine, Transmission , Transfer Case , Front diff, rear diff, exhaust, and interior. Any info is greatly appreciated whether facts or tips.

Thanks guys

 

[Harlen Shaw]

Almost forgot to mention. It is a 4 speed, if that helps at all.

 

[Coach]

AMC20 rear axle.

Not sure, but it looked like a Dana 300 Transfer Case .

Sorry I couldn't help more. Looks like a nice jeep and you got it for a good price though.

Coach

 

[Cheepjeep85]

Dana 30 front, AMC20 rear, pretty sure T-18 tranny and Dana 20 Transfer Case , AMC 304 v8. looks like somebody might have took the whole drivetrain from a 70's jeep and swapped it over to the 84. in 84 the jeep would have came with either a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l I6, T-176 , Dana 300 , or 2.5 AMC 150 I4, T-4 -T-5 , Dana 300 . or it could have come with a 6cyl auto and wide track axles,. it even looks like they might have swapped the axles over to the narrow track as well, but i can't really tell by the pics, you can take measurements from bleeder screw to bleeder screw to find out exactly. have you checked the title and vin# it might actually be older than an 84. anyhow you got yourself a good lookin jeep, with a good drivetrain.

 

[Busted Knuckles]

If you climb under the jeep, under and around where the motor mounts bolt to the block, the CID of the engine should be cast into it. You will not be able to see the whole number, but should see the end on at least one side. The number will also be "upside down", but if you see a "4" then you know its a AMC 304 , or a "0", then its a 360,,, if you're real lucky, you'd see a "1", and you'd have a 401. I cant remember for sure but it seems to me that you can just about read it on one side, and its pretty much covered on the other side. I don't have anymore AMC CJ V8s sitting around, so Im working from memory of at least 10 years ago.

 

[Harlen Shaw]

Thanks a lot guys.

 

[CJim7]

If you climb under the jeep, under and around where the motor mounts bolt to the block, the CID of the engine should be cast into it. You will not be able to see the whole number, but should see the end on at least one side. The number will also be "upside down",

Upside down? they are right side up

 

[Old Dog]

The front is a Dana 30 the rear an AMC20 . The Transfer Case does not look like a 300 to me.
I like my fiberglass body, but I've heard bay stories about cheep bodies, so hope the guy bought a good one.
The sputter could be a vac. leak, a timing problem, or a carb problem. I'd start with the timing and vac. check.

And welcome to the site.

 

[Harlen Shaw]

If you climb under the jeep, under and around where the motor mounts bolt to the block, the CID of the engine should be cast into it. You will not be able to see the whole number, but should see the end on at least one side. The number will also be "upside down", but if you see a "4" then you know its a AMC 304 , or a "0", then its a 360,,, if you're real lucky, you'd see a "1", and you'd have a 401. I cant remember for sure but it seems to me that you can just about read it on one side, and its pretty much covered on the other side. I don't have anymore AMC CJ V8s sitting around, so Im working from memory of at least 10 years ago.

I took a look and under both engine mounts 360 is on it. So I suppose it is a 360 then, thanks. And just FYI the numbers are right side up.

 

[Busted Knuckles]

I took a look and under both engine mounts 360 is on it. So I suppose it is a 360 then, thanks. And just FYI the numbers are right side up.

Great, you found it, yep, you got a 360, that's good, plenty o-power.. as far as the numbers being right side up, I must have been upside down !

 

[Old Dog]

Great, you found it, yep, you got a 360, that's good, plenty o-power.. as far as the numbers being right side up, I must have been upside down !

BK is right, a 360 is a good thing.
As for the number I guess it all depends if your looking from the top or the bottom.

 

[Harlen Shaw]

Thanks guys from your input I was able to confirm AMC 360, T-18 transmissoion, Dana 20 Transfer Case , Dana 30 Front, and AMC20 Rear.

So far I've fixed the brake line leaks. I'm working on the wiring, who ever did it last spliced the wires about every 1-2 ft so the lights and gauges flicker alot. The engine doesn't really sputter anymore, hopefully just cause it had been sitting awhile and it stays that way.

Only major issue so far is I was changing the oil and couldn't get the old filter off so I had to take the oil pump cover off and beat the filter off of it. When I put the cover back on to the timing cover and tightened the first bolt just a little it stripped the threads out . So for the next ones I did finger tight and cranked it up. There was just a slight leak so I, very carefully tried to tighten the rest down and after just a 1/4 turn each of them stripped out so now I have a steady leak. I am down to three choices it seems like. First is to try and tap new threads into it and use bigger bolts, second is to drill all the way through put a longer bolt and a nut on the other end, and my last and most expensive option is to drop 300$ on a new timing cover set.

Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks