damn your a lot of help, what about the little gear on the end?? What is that for the oil pump??does that come off with the timing gear? I just ordered a new timing gear from summit ( wanted to do a gear drive but not for 400 bucks) anyway do i need to buy one of those gears also ( the little gear in front of the big gear) ??? I guess you can tell this is my first motor tear down
Maybe I can help...
First take the bolt out of the end of the camshaft, and keep track of the parts that come off, and the ORDER they come off in...
Secondly, you will run into a large washer, take it off and set it aside.
Then you will find the Camshaft Gear that turns the distributor (and the distributor turns the oil pump).
If that camshaft gear is stubborn, and you plan to reuse it, then don't pound on it!
It's DUCTILE IRON, not steal, and it will mark up or chip VERY EASILY.
Use a thin point flat screwdriver between the fuel pump eccentric and the camshaft distributor drive gear...
Go around the camshaft and TAP with a SOFT FACE hammer!
Remember!
You need to TAP!
You are trying to get a CAST IRON part off a CAST IRON CAMSHAFT, so don't get aggressive!
Usually, once the 'Crud' is popped loose, the gear will move pretty easily by hand with some 'Coaxing' with a SOFT FACE hammer...
Repeat to get the fuel pump eccentric off,
Pry a little between, and in different places all the way around the fuel pump eccentric and the timing SPROCKET to get the fuel pump eccentric off.
To get the top timing SPROCKET off the camshaft,
You may have to pull the camshaft out a little, then 'Persuade' the Sprocket to come off the camshaft.
Remember to support the camshaft from the NOSE as you are 'Persuading' the sprocket off the camshaft...
DO NOT PRY ON, OR SIDE LOAD THE CAMSHAFT!
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Once you have the top chain SPROCKET off, put the new SPROCKET on (It's NOT A GEAR!) and turn the 'Dot' directly DOWN...
Then you will have to find TDC of the #1 piston by turning the Crankshaft...
DO NOT USE METAL IN THE CYLINDER!
Just take the #1 plug out, and stick a wooden dowel rod or chop stick in the spark plug hole until you can feel the back of the cylinder wall, then turn the crank until you can feel the piston coming up and moving the wooden dowel rod...
Once you can feel for the piston at about TOP DEAD CENTER 'TDC',
Put the lower SPROCKET on and look for the 'Dot',
Which should be just about lined up with the centerline between CAMSHAFT and CRANKSHAFT...
The alignment of the dots doesn't mean a DAMN THING!
Align the dots with the centerline between CRANK SHAFT CENTERLINE and CAM SHAFT CENTERLINE
Once the CRANK AND CAM are lined up,
Then take the SPROCKETS OFF,
Put the chain on them,
And install for real...
And if the 'Dots' still line up with the CENTER LINE of the engine when you are done,
You installed the timing set correctly....
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NOW!
Some things you might want to know....
(Tips from a guy that has been doing AMC engines for 30 years...)
1. NEVER PUT A TIMING SPROCKET ON WITHOUT CHECKING THE OIL PASSAGE!
90% of the 'Aftermarket' Timing Sets will have 'Flash' or 'Overcasting' in the oil passage that needs to be cleaned out with file or 'Dremel' Tool.
2. Make sure the oil passage lines up with the oil passage in the camshaft!
Some oil passage are just in the wrong darn place,
OR,
The installer puts the sprocket on backwards and the oil passages don't line up!
3. *IF*...
You reuse the oil pump eccentric, distributor drive gear, ect, make sure the oil passage holes in them are in the correct place and CLEAR!
You wouldn't BELIEVE the
that I've found in pumps, passages, ect. when the parts wire supposedly 'Ready To Install'...
4. Anytime I have the intake and timing cover off the engine,
I remove/replace the front camshaft bearing.
Even if I don't replace the camshaft, I replace the front bearing in the block.
(Intake has to be off so you can pull the lifters up off the camshaft)
A BUNCH of oil leaks around that front bearing when it gets worn, killing your oil pressure to the rest of the engine,
And it's just BEGGING to be replaced when you have the front timing cover and intake off!
5. Make sure the 'Oil Slinger' gets put back on the CRANK SHAFT when you reassemble.
It looks like a wide, 'Domed' washer, and the 'Cupped' side faces the timing cover, with the 'Dome' side facing the timing sprocket...
6. DO NOT forget to use some assembly lube, grease or heavy weight gear oil on the front camshaft bearing, fuel pump eccentric, distributor drive gear, timing set and front seal before you button things back up!
All that stuff will be starting 'Dry' and needs initial lube or it will burn up VERY QUICKLY waiting for the oiling system to trickle down to it...
