Need help with front rotor removal in 79 cj5

[Rexx66]

Got calipers off and currently staring at this greasy nightmare. ..

do I need a special tool to get this thing off or am I making this harder than what it is.

 

[Hedgehog]

- Remove the snap ring and the whole thing will slide out.
- Then you will need to bend a retainer flap off the outer nut flat.
- Use a jeep front end nut socket (all jeepere need one of these) to remove the outer nut
- Slide off the indexing ring (a washer with a little tongue on it)
- Remove the inner nut (the same size as the outer nut
- Pull the whole hub including the rotor and bearings
- Seperate the hub from the rotor by removing the lug studs.
- Inspect the bearings and seals for wear, DON"T forget to remove the spindle and inspect the innier torington drive axle bearing. This is probably the most neglected bearing in any Jeep.

 

[Rexx66]

Here's where I'm at currently.

 

[somedude922]

Following as I am tackling this next week. Keep the pics coming!!

 

[Hedgehog]

Follow my post. The tab has been bent back, unfortunately now your going to need to spend a little money and get a hub nut socket to remove the outer nut. ..... it ain't all free.

 

[Rexx66]

Spindle Nut Socket: 1/2 Drive - A692N


've had a few local jeep friends say I'm going to need a 2 1/16 size socket to get the nut off. I tried a few things to get them off but no luck. Put in a order to Morris 4x4 for the socket. Hopefully I get it this week...

 

[elwood blues]

X2, you have to have the specific spindle nut socket, a normal sidewall socket (if you can find one that big to start with) will not fit in there. Sorry to stall your project. While you're ordering get replacements for both the nuts and the tabbed washers, just take it as my experience saving someone else from misery

 

[GARGOYLEJEEPER]

X2 on the spindle nut socket with holes for use without ratchet, a thin wall deep 2 1/16" socket will be twice the price or more. Also a little hook to pull out the washers, on most auto parts store counters or rotating racks. A 3/8" x 16 tap to clean hub bolt threads if no tap a bolt ground with a relief down the length to remove gunk from holes.
All things mentioned in the posts plus a little grease or never-seeze on lugs when assembling.

 

[clear82star]

I have the deep wall socket for install. I've read 50 ft-lbs?
The 2 locknuts and tabbed washer seem to be in good shape. Do u HAVE TO replace every time and if so why?
I'm replacing the oil seal in the back and re-packing with grease. Can u over pack? I've heard no and yes.
My plan is to use TheRightStuff for gasket on the hub cap. Any other thoughts/suggestions?


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[GARGOYLEJEEPER]

No you do not need to replace every time, pound flat and remove any burs. Pack bearings with grease either by palm of hand from wide side until it comes out narrow side or a grease packer and then some behind and in front, no need to fill up hub with grease you will be wasting it you can over pack a hub, since you can not over pack a bearing, grease will not compress.
Inner nut 50' lbs. rotate hub then back off 1/4 to 1/6 turn.

 

[Hedgehog]

I tend to be a preacher for this, but it is important and the most over looked bearing on most any 4x4. You will not have a complete front end bearing service if you don't remove the spindle and inspect/pack the inner axle Torrington bearing. It's not hard and needs to be done. Mine had bearings warn flat and hadn't turned in a VERY long time. Do it right, do the Torrington bearing and be proud of the complete bearing service you've done.