I am in the process of upgrading my 79
CJ5 to power steering now.
I just watched Craigslist and Ebay for a while to source my parts. Also monitored the local pick-and-pull places as well.
This is what I did for my conversion:
PS Box. I found a pre 1980 J20 steering box sourced from pick-and-pull. This is the good box, cap measures 3.5" instead of the 3" from a standard FSJ or J10 box (but those will work just fine). These are variable rate boxes so the CJ should be less twitchy when highway driving. You can get a standard FSJ or J10 box from an auto parts supplier but they are $$$. If you can find one on Craigslist or local junkyard that is the way to go. Even if you have to rebuild it yourself (which is pretty easy as well).
Bracketry. I have a
AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l with no smog pump. There is a different front bracket for those that still have a smog pump. I do not, so the standard triangular bracket is fine. You can even fabricate your own brackets if you want. But you can usually find these on ebay or locally if you are lucky. There are four pieces to the setup. A bracket that attaches to the intake manifold and the block (rear bracket - steel). Two brackets that attach to the pump and allow for belt adjustment (aluminum). And a front triangular bracket that attaches to the water pump and the PS pump (steel). Also holds the adjustment bolt as well.
PS pump. You will need to match your PS box with this one. Pre 80s is SAE flare fittings, post 80s is O ring style. My box is SAE, so I have an SAE flare style pump. So order up some CJ PS lines for your application, either pre or post 1980. These lines will have tighter bends with enough clearance for the radiator. You will also need a pulley that lines up as well. Mine has a double pulley setup, but of course only one V will be in use.
Tips etc:
As others have said, if any of your other steering components are shot, this is a good time to go through and replace them. No sense in converting to PS if you have other steering issues.
The PS box will mount up directly with the stock mounts. You will either have a three bolt box or a four bolt. If you have the four bolt box, you can lose the bracket that sandwiches in between the box and the outer bracket. If you want to upgrade to an HD mount, this is also the time to do it. I am running 33s and don't plan to wheel too hard, so I am using the stock mount.
When removing the old box, you will need to support the driver's side leaf (I just put my jack under the DS leaf strap, and just got it snug). No reason to lift with the jack, but since you will be removing the bolts that hold the shackle to the frame, a support is nice to have.
Your manual steering shaft will work with the FSJ style PS boxes as the diameter and spline count are the same as the manual CJ coupler. Some of the FSJ and J boxes have a nipple that protrudes out the end of the input shaft. You can lop that off for easier fitting.
If you get the larger J20 box like mine, you will need to swap in a CJ power steering pitman arm, as the drag link taper is larger on the J20. The other FSJ boxes should be fine to use the standard pitman.
Anti-sieze, anti-sieze, anti-sieze. All hardware that you use to install, especially the bracket to the manifold, block, and water pump. Some on the splines of the output shaft if installing a new pitman arm.
Just jump into the swap both feet and learn as you go. That is the beauty of the CJ. Easy to learn on and rewarding to do a job yourself. Ask questions where you get stumped (more helpful with accompanying pictures).
