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New fuel tank... any prep?

New fuel tank... any prep?

smbundy13

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Location
Texas
Vehicle(s)
1980 CJ7, 258 I6, SR4, D300. Power steering, power brakes. Stock axles stock susp. Gentle rehab in progress.
I just got my new steel 15 gal tank in the mail for my cj. My other one had rusty water come out of it and seemed to be getting real thin on the bottom.

Anyways, apart from painting the outside, is there any other prep I should do? Specifically I am thinking of getting the inside coated I have read you can do that at a radiator shop. Someone mentioned getting the tanks oressure checked. Where would I be able to do that?

Thanks very much.
 
Is the tank galvanized? The radiator shop can pressure check the tank. If you have an air pump you can pressure check it yourself. Just don't use a lot of pressure when you do it. A few pounds of pressure is all you need.
 
Is the tank galvanized? The radiator shop can pressure check the tank. If you have an air pump you can pressure check it yourself. Just don't use a lot of pressure when you do it. A few pounds of pressure is all you need.

I am not sure if it's galvanized. It's a run of the mill replacement.
 
The replacement tanks I've seen don't look like they are galvanized. They could be, but they don't have that galvanized metal look.

I suppose there could be problems with some tank liners. I worried about just that when relining my Harley Davidson tanks. The original tanks cracked around the rear mounting bolt between the tanks, when it was welded the factory liner burned off so it needed to be relined. The tank liner kit I used had multiple steps. Clean the tanks as best I could, a muriatic acid solution to clean the insides and etch the metal, an acid neutralizer, the tank liner thinned with a very strong MDK (? super acetone), swish the liner all around in the tank, pour out the excess and let it set. 5 years later the bike was sold with the liner intact. I can't complain about it.

Rob at Willys Works here in Tucson pressure tests every tank he gets. He had several returned by unhappy customers so he takes the extra time. A surprising number of them don't pass the test. When he complained to the distributer they essentially blew him off saying that they replace every tank that failed. The problem is it costs him time and money to test tanks that should be good. The moral of the story is, test your metal tank before installing it.

Have you asked on other boards about lining a CJ tank? What did they think about it?
 
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With steel tanks. Don't leave the Jeep parked for to long without the tank being full.
Full tank of gas really reduces condensation, which becomes rust as water will settle to the bottom of the tank.
LG
 
I would pressure test that tank before you install it. That tank is China made and the retailer does not have a good rep.
Test at 15psi for 15 minutes. You shouldn't loose more than 1-2 psi.
I would say that if in fact it was galvanized-It would be in the sales pitch.
LG
 
I would pressure test that tank before you install it. That tank is China made and the retailer does not have a good rep.
Test at 15psi for 15 minutes. You shouldn't loose more than 1-2 psi.
I would say that if in fact it was galvanized-It would be in the sales pitch.
LG

Forgive my ignorance, but where / how would I get it pressure tested? A radiator shop or something like that? The last thing I want to do is install a tank more than once!

Thanks.
 
Do it yourself. ;) Plug all the openings, and add some PSI.
Do you have access to a air compressor?
LG
 
Try this also;)-Get some PSI into your tank and then take some very soapy water in a spray bottle and spray EVERY seam and joint-fitting, looking for bubbles.
:chug:
LG
 
leave the inside alone, the galv. plating is all you need. most of the sealers are :dung: and will clog the fuel system.
:agree: I've heard of other people having problems with theirs after doing this. I needed to replace my tank. Bought one from Omix-ADA. Made in China too. I painted the outside clear because I wanted to keep that new look. The inside I believe is ok to go with as is. The biggest problem with fuel tanks is water. Water creates rust in the bottom of them as it is heavier than gas and sinks to the bottom. Adding a preventative like HEET helps keep the water to a minimum. There are other products that do this too. Also doing what Lumpy said and keeping the tank half to full of gas all the time helps with condensation (water).
 
Thanks for the info folks. Got some information from PO. Think I will either need a carb rebuild or a new carb. He said the carb was leaking. Not sure what that means. Trying to decide between new carb or just a rebuild.

What do y'all think?
 
What carburetor do you have?
 
What carburetor do you have?

Stock carb. Think it's carter 2bbl? 1980 CJ7 with AMC I6

And if I get a new carb, I will get a Weber carb. Fyi
 
Had my Weber for 25 years and great improvement on the 4 cyl. My only complaint is stopping on steep inclines ��
 
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Rebuild what you have. The Carter is a good carb.;)
Here's a tuning tip for that Carter.........
Idle Problems

LG
 
Rebuild what you have. The Carter is a good carb.;)
Here's a tuning tip for that Carter.........
Idle Problems

LG

thanks. I am going to look at rebuild kits.. I am guessing it might be leaking from a gasket area.. but not sure until I get it off and get it looked at.

edit, how can i tell which carb i have? I have AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l in an '80 CJ7 ..

thanks.. I am in the process of searching.. but figured i would ask
 
Can you get the engine run'n? :confused:
He may well referring to the idle tubes dripping.;)
BTW-Flush the inside of the new gas tank with about a qt of gas before you install it. After the pressure test.
LG
 

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