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New guy- straight tub swap on my '85 CJ-7???

New guy- straight tub swap on my '85 CJ-7???
F

freedom

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Location
jerzee shore
Vehicle(s)
mostly stock Cj-7 1985.
only thing memorable is that it's fuel injected.
It's that time for me: I can see the road through the floor of my daily driver, '85 CJ7 .
However, I think I've found a rust free, already primed '86 body.

I will have some help from family and a few cousins that restored a sweet Shelby Cobra.

Considering all of my body is rotted, what will I need to start this project?
Do i need a new "cross member"? Should I buy new body mounts and hardware now?

Lots of questions but if this gets off the ground I'll post many pics.
Since this is my daily driver, I'm hoping to finish this within a month and before it gets cold.
 
i would go ahead and buy new body mounts now as the old ones never come off in good shape and they arent too expensive. if its the rear crossmember youre talking about only replace it if its rusted out if not leave it alone
 
Only do the body lift if needed. If you go over 1 inch, there are a lor of changes to be done to do that correctly. You will need new rubber or poly mounts, your choice on that. You won't know how bad the crossmembers are until you get it apart. Which crossmember are you concerned about?
 
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Do you have a pic of the crossmemeber? I have been searching for the one that the front of the fuel tank attaches to, and have come to the conclusion that I will probably have to fab my own. As for the body, that price was a little high for one you know nothing about. CJ has a thread on here, with a co out of Toledo(?) that he said was top notch. Otherwise, look into a YJ tub. There is work involved, but they are easier to find.
 
In the case of steel or galvanized. That the time to spray with either "self etching primer or epoxy primer. Epoxy is still the only primer I use during all are restos from the ground up. Just my 2 cents
 
I spoke to my wife's uncle and he said I should reinforce the bad spots in the floor and that I can still drive it but not as my daily driver.

He mentioned PB Blaster is better than liquid wrench so I'm off to find some for removing the driver's seat.

Then the long wait to find the "right" tub for me...


CJKrawler said:
it is the one that is just above the rear axle.
Click to expand...

one more time:
Original Replacement Parts 8127711 - Replacement Steel Rear Frame Crossmember (Pre-Punched) for 76-86 Jeep® CJ-7 - Quadratec
 
I struggled for several hours to get the drivers side front seat out.
The two bolts closest to the side panels were rusted and the nuts seized and then stripped.
PB Blaster did help but I should have waited another day or two before going at these rusted nuts and bolts.
After getting all 4 bolts out I removed the front seat and sanded down the rough areas, then sprayed everything rustoleum red.
I went to Lowes and purchased a 2'x2' piece of 16 gauge sheet metal.
I then cut out a paper template.

I still have to cut and shape the sheet metal, pop rivet the edges, and bolt the seat back in place.
I figure this will get me through the winter.

First pic shows the hole in the floor near the seat belt anchor.
Second pic shows my paper template.

PICT0001.webp
PICT0002.webp
 
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