new guy

[kwhopper]

Greetings, just got my first ever jeep home and I've got questions (need help/support/a shrink).
My jeep is a '82 CJ7 , got it from the second owner who had it since 1986!
He parked it in 2004 (outside) until I came along, now I'm trying to bring it back to life.
First (of many) issues I have is that the starter will not engage with the key switch, it will turn over if I hot wire the solenoid, secondly when I attach the batt. the coil wire has voltage with the key off.
I'm sure it's wiring related, the CJ was home to a rather large family of Squirrels.
Any and all help would be appreciated

 

[jamie]

i would change the starter solenoid, but first i would check the power wire from the solenoid to the key switch. make sure it has power when you try to start it. if it does, its the solenoid, if it dosent its the wiring or key switch

 

[Jimbos76cj]

There's a few things between the key switch and the solenoid. Make sure the key is turning the rod that activates the starter... IF you look up under the dash there is a long skinny rod that moves the switch towards the bottom of the colum. Theres a chance that rod is loose and the switch is in run mode (hot Coil) but wont engage the starter (no crank). Normally these dont tend to go bad but my last CJ project had an issue with it and caused all sorts of ignition problems. Where about are you in FL? IF your close to Kissimmee, St.Cloud or Polk I may be able to swing by and look at it with you. Or if you can tow it to my place we can check it out here. Im not sure if I missed it but is it a auto or manual?

 

[cerrajero]

start with the solenoid it will be the most common
then back track towards the ignition ( on the lower column)

yes check to see if the rod is moving on the column ( it connects to the ignition ) if moving that means the key switch as well as the rack of the steering wheel is working as well.

does any of the accessories come on as you are turning the key? and does it spring back at the start position?

good way to check......turn signal....radio...heater fan......these come on as you turn the key.....if so the ignition is doing 90% the other 10 is start

voltage on the coil should be 6 volts ( i think )

 

[kwhopper]

Thanks for the suggestions, upon unraveling the "rats nest" of wires I came across an "anti-theft" device the po installed....took it out and the 'ole girl started!!
ran ok but the carb is toast...do I replace the stock 2BBl or go for some upgrade option?
My CJ is a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l /4spd and is pretty much bone stock.
Also what do I do with all the smog stuff thats mostly unhooked? Plug up all the vacuum tubes and remove, or restore?
Thanks again for any and all help.

 

[IOPort51]

good job on the wiring!!

carbs have several options, depending on your ability to fab and creatively engineer certain parts like linkages and air cleaners. easiest thing is replace the carter 2 bbl next is rebuild the Carter 2 bbl then the ford MC2100/2150 upgrade and /or Weber 2 bbl. then there is the option of a small 4 bbl and fuel injection.

lots of information on the web.

I just out a MC2150 on mine and am very impressed with it but it wasn't a case of pulling it out of a box and bolting it on.

Thanks for the suggestions, upon unraveling the "rats nest" of wires I came across an "anti-theft" device the po installed....took it out and the 'ole girl started!!
ran ok but the carb is toast...do I replace the stock 2BBl or go for some upgrade option?
My CJ is a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l /4spd and is pretty much bone stock.
Also what do I do with all the smog stuff thats mostly unhooked? Plug up all the vacuum tubes and remove, or restore?
Thanks again for any and all help.

 

[Jimbos76cj]

Thanks for the suggestions, upon unraveling the "rats nest" of wires I came across an "anti-theft" device the po installed....took it out and the 'ole girl started!!
ran ok but the carb is toast...do I replace the stock 2BBl or go for some upgrade option?
My CJ is a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l /4spd and is pretty much bone stock.
Also what do I do with all the smog stuff thats mostly unhooked? Plug up all the vacuum tubes and remove, or restore?
Thanks again for any and all help.

You regristering her in FL or NJ. I remeber they are big emissions sticklers in NJ. Here in FL you can do what ever you want for the most part, no inspections.

What do you plan on doing with her? just cruising the town? If you're gonna leave her here and only use her when you come down your gonna have a constant issue with fuel going bad no matter what carb you run?

I like upgrading to the HEI distributor and Weber or MC 2100 carb for cleaning up the horrible computer controlled carb.

Heres a brief guesstimate on cost.

1.Rebuild the stock 2bl $15-$30 for the rebuild kit.

2.Rebuild stock and do a Nutter $15-$30 still

3.Nutter and MC2100 $75-$AMC 150 for the carb and rebuild plus another $50 for the adapter and little parts. And another $15-$30 to rebuild the MC

4.Nutter and Weber. $AMC 150 -$400 depending on whether you by the weber new or not

5. Instead of doing the nutter you can upgrade to an HEI and that will get rid of 95% of your under hood wiring problems. It will get rid of all the ignition wires except for the new relay circuit that needs to be installed which is 4 wires. $AMC 150 for a HEI

6. HEI and Propane!! I know it sounds like alot or extreme. But the got propane kit is about $850 plus the tank. It the gas doesnt go bad from sitting so if you left it sit all summer when you come down it will be turn key start for you. for $1000 you will be pretty much maintenance free. Its cleaner for the motor and the environment. Merry D on pleasant hill Rd can fill the tank. Im hoping to sell a kidney to get propane for my project when the time comes. Propane Conversion Kits.

When you consider a new webber and HEI will be close to $5-600the HEI and Propane isnt much off that.

 

[kwhopper]

Thanks all for the advice....I'm going to register the Cj in NJ with historic tags (no state insp. req.) so I can drive it in Fl with my NJ tag. At this point I want to get it running and driving to see what I've got myself into without breaking the bank. If I go the HEI route can I eliminate the ignition control units and wiring? Also would like to eliminate the air pump.(not hooked up).

Thanks again for any and all help.

 

[Jimbos76cj]

If you set the carb up like your doin a nutter bypass (metering pin half in) then yes you can get rid of the computer, smog and ignition box and all the associated hose and wires. I would find some one on here with the modified charcoal canister and keep that. Every thing else would go into the trash.

I like punishment and find it easier to disconnect the engine harness from the back of the fuse block, label every thing reall well, carefully lay it out onthe shop/kitchen/living room floor and weed through it. Then it would be a good time to look for bad wires and look at the factory solder/clamp/duct tape connections and repair as needed.