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No Power to Turn Signal FUSE

No Power to Turn Signal FUSE
Yes, Yes, and Yes. They all have some sort of metal part that makes contact with the dash I believe. If you are in doubt if they are grounding properly, jump a wire to a good known ground point. Makes trouble shooting easier that way.:chug:

Lol, Well Thank God I took like 6 wires, stripped them and tied them all togethor SHOVED them into a butt connector, and it looks absolutley scary lol, i'm glad I don't have to use that. :D

Thank YALL

:chug:
 
Depends on the gauge. Some gauges will have three prongs on the back; power, ground, and sender.

Then you have a separate circuit for the lights.

What type of gauges are you using?

Once again, Im sorry, but I would refer to the wiring diagram.

If you look at the back of the gauge, you should see little plus/minus signs or and S for the sender terminal.
 
Depends on the gauge. Some gauges will have three prongs on the back; power, ground, and sender.

Then you have a separate circuit for the lights.

What type of gauges are you using?

Once again, Im sorry, but I would refer to the wiring diagram.

If you look at the back of the gauge, you should see little plus/minus signs or and S for the sender terminal.

Diagrams are great when 1. Your good at reading them and super patient 2. Stuff matches to your wiring for the original prints, Mine do not for some reason lol my lights will come from a bulb that sticks into the gauge, as far as the two prongs go I believe one of them will be gauge power and the others will be like fuel power etc. etc. etc. :D Thank you thank yall

I will be back w/ more questions of course thanks again.
 
on a 77, At the bottom of steering column, there is a plastic multi-wire pull apart junction box. (Don't know about a 76, but it should be similar) It should have a large red wire going into it. That is the main positive for ignition and accessory side of ignition switch..make sure it's hot. Your horn, TS, ACC and ignition all exit through that same junction. Check for voltage there. Make sure you have your test light grounded well. If it has voltage going in to column and not coming out it's probably in the ignition connector. I know it's a pain. I went through the same thing except mine would work then quit. You can build you a hot fused tester and run from hot connection on fuse box or battery and check each circuit in the junction box that unplugs from column at the bottom of steering column to see if TS etc. work when you hit them with juice. Just make sure it's a fused tester and have extra fuses ready cause if you find a short, it's going to blow. Also, I'd wear gloves. By doing this, you've bypassed the ignition and TS switch. It's a process of elimination. If they work that way, then use the hot wire and test light to check wires going into column to see if circuit is completing. If all of that is in order, you might check your fuse block for corroded, loose or bad connections. If I'm not mistaken, you have the old vacuum type fuses and the holders corrode easily. It should unplug from firewall under hood by removing one nut or bolt I believe. and a couple of pain the butt screws hold the fuse box to the inside under the dash, but you may not need to take it loose. Use your testers there also. Alligator clips, black wire, red wire and black tape and fuse link will build the hot tester.
Good luck.
 
The 76 DOES have the same connector.
 
I have a 75 my ignition is on the dash lol....but I fount the problem I had a wire on the wrong side of ignition switch.
 
Well that's great....it'a an easy fix!
 

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