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No Spark or Fuel During Engine Crank

No Spark or Fuel During Engine Crank
Thanks for the update. Hopefully Howell can provide a solution with the info you have sent them. It is great that they would provide customer service like that.
 
You have something going on with your crank signal.
You should only have 12v while cranking and 0v in the run position, you have .6v in the run position.
The C9 wire should be connected to starter solenoid S post that is hot only when the key is in the crank position.
I'd inspect the wire and the starter solenoid to find the source of the .6v.
 
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You have something going on with your crank signal.
You should only have 12v while cranking and 0v in the run position, you have .6v in the run position.
The C9 wire should be connected to starter solenoid S post that is hot only when the key is in the crank position.
I'd inspect the wire and the starter solenoid to find the source of the .6v.

Can you help me out with this Posi? The wiring diagram I'm looking at shows a light blue wire from the S post of the starter solenoid to one side of the ignition module two wire connector. Any tips on how to troubleshoot this? I actually got 6.4V not .6V so obviously a problem.
 
What I'm posting below has nothing to do with FI

The light blue wire goes from the ignition switch to the S post of the starter. This has nothing to do with C9 pin wire
The red goes from the I post to the coil by splice, then travels to the ignition module.

FI,

C9 typically is a blue/white wire for GM, check pin C9 for the color.
Disconnect the battery and check continuity from the C9 pin to end of that wire.

I'm wondering if one of the two wires on the I post goes back to the C9 pin.
If the ecm receives 12v at C9 it adds fuel to start the engine. Although 6.4v the same thing could be happening in the run position flooding the engine.
 
What I'm posting below has nothing to do with FI

The light blue wire goes from the ignition switch to the S post of the starter. This has nothing to do with C9 pin wire
The red goes from the I post to the coil by splice, then travels to the ignition module.

FI,

C9 typically is a blue/white wire for GM, check pin C9 for the color.
Disconnect the battery and check continuity from the C9 pin to end of that wire.

I'm wondering if one of the two wires on the I post goes back to the C9 pin.
If the ecm receives 12v at C9 it adds fuel to start the engine. Although 6.4v the same thing could be happening in the run position flooding the engine.

I do know that when my key is in the run position there is no fuel coming out of the injectors, only during crank. I just want to clarify, when you say FI you do mean fuel injection right?
 
I do know that when my key is in the run position there is no fuel coming out of the injectors, only during crank. I just want to clarify, when you say FI you do mean fuel injection right?
No fuel in the run position? This is new info to me. Does it cut off once the key turns to run or gradually comes to a stop?

FI=fuel injection.
 
Sorry, what I meant was that there's no fuel from the injectors when first turning the key to run. The fuel pump comes on for a couple of seconds then stops as it should. During crank and subsequent run after it starts there is fuel from the injectors until it dies.


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Thanks for clarifying.
 
Do you wait till the FP stops, before trying to start? You should, with any form of FI...
LG
 
What I'm posting below has nothing to do with FI

The light blue wire goes from the ignition switch to the S post of the starter. This has nothing to do with C9 pin wire
The red goes from the I post to the coil by splice, then travels to the ignition module.

FI,

C9 typically is a blue/white wire for GM, check pin C9 for the color.
Disconnect the battery and check continuity from the C9 pin to end of that wire.

I'm wondering if one of the two wires on the I post goes back to the C9 pin.
If the ecm receives 12v at C9 it adds fuel to start the engine. Although 6.4v the same thing could be happening in the run position flooding the engine.

Additionally, check your grounds when you get your ecm back.
Battery connected and key off, probe A11, A12, D1, D2.
You should have 0 ohms or 0v
 
Sorry, what I meant was that there's no fuel from the injectors when first turning the key to run. The fuel pump comes on for a couple of seconds then stops as it should. During crank and subsequent run after it starts there is fuel from the injectors until it dies.


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When the key is in the run position there should be no fuel coming from the injectors as there is no tach signal being sent to the computer. The fuel pump is supposed to come on and send fuel to the throttle body but not into the injectors. With all that fuel I saw being sprayed from the injectors in the video, I am thinking this could be a computer issue, but am not suggesting for you to go and purchase one. Hopefully the guys at Howell can come up with a solution.
 
When the key is in the run position there should be no fuel coming from the injectors as there is no tach signal being sent to the computer. The fuel pump is supposed to come on and send fuel to the throttle body but not into the injectors. With all that fuel I saw being sprayed from the injectors in the video, I am thinking this could be a computer issue, but am not suggesting for you to go and purchase one. Hopefully the guys at Howell can come up with a solution.



That's exactly what I said in my response to Posi earlier today. There is no fuel to the injectors while key is in run position and engine is not running (normal ops).

Just heard back from Howell who installed my ecm in their test jeep and it ran fine. Back to the drawing board!


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Thanks for the update. I once bought a new throttle body thinking that was my problem, failed on that guess. Now I have a spare along with other goof ups. So something else is causing those injectors to go crazy.
 
Didn't surprised me, and what I thought they would say, hang in there we will find the problem.

Did you happen to ask troy where they wire the C9 pin? As I mentioned should go to the S post of the starter solenoid, not sure how howell wires them. May save you some time tracking it down yourself.
 
Thanks for the update. I once bought a new throttle body thinking that was my problem, failed on that guess. Now I have a spare along with other goof ups. So something else is causing those injectors to go crazy.



Yeah, almost everything indicates it's running too rich, the amount of fuel spray, the sooty plugs, the fact that it won't come up to idle and stalls out but the funny thing is that when I slowly pinched off the fuel hose with pliers and watched the fuel spray diminish down to almost nothing, it ran no better and then obviously died when I pinched the flow to nothing. Was really hoping Howell would find something wrong with the ecm but no such luck! I've never had a vehicle down this long without eventually figuring out the problem, getting really frustrated!


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What I did was use feeler gauges to try and measure the throttle blade openings. I got about .003 when the blades are fully closed.

Also, your throttle blade isn't open enough when fully released, but lets focus on the 6.4v in the run position at C9 first.
 
Well, another guess would be a wire short circuit somewhere as the components seem to be operational. I think you already checked for that though. Did disconnecting an injector help any?
 
Well, another guess would be a wire short circuit somewhere as the components seem to be operational. I think you already checked for that though. Did disconnecting an injector help any?



No, disconnecting one injector did not help.


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