TSB8C
Old Time Jeeper
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- Cut-n-Shoot, TX
- Vehicle(s)
- 1984 CJ7, 420 HP "ZZ6 EFI" Crate engine, 700R4, D300, Dana30 front, Dana489 rear, 4.56 gears, 4" lift
That's a great looking rig, and welcome to the group. We'd love a few more pics when you get a chance. To your questions, you'll get a lot of answers based on different climates and uses.
For filters, I don't like Fram. IMO they've come down way down in quality. But a Fram would be a #1522. Pre-82 was the 1258. The 1258 is shorter and fatter whereas the 1522 is a bit longer and skinnier. The NAPA ProSelect #21258 is a good choice. The Bosche #3423 is also a good choice. I use full synthetic in mine, but I have a SBC with aluminum heads and other different internals. I use WIX #51060XP oil filter designed for synthetic oils. That doesn't help you. But for you, WIX was the OEM and I prefer that brand. I believe the NAPA Gold is also made by WIX. The WIX has a safety bypass valve, steel spring, metal baseplate, and anti-drain feature to prevent dry starts. So the WIX 51258 would be my recommendation.
For the oil at over 100K miles, I would use any quality "high mileage" oil. These oils contain additives that condition seals and reduce oil consumption, which helps to prevent leaks. They also have a higher viscosity, providing better lubrication for aging engine parts. I'm partial to Pennzoil since I used to work for them (since bought out by Shell). Their "Platinum Full Synthetic" is what I run. Now in terms of weight, that may vary based on what you're doing and your climate. Like you, I live in the south (near Houston) and my rig is a daily driver in Houston traffic. Curious if you're doing the same. What I use may not fit the bill for a rock crawler in a high altitude or a "snow player" in deep cold weather. Some people like a thicker oil for older engines, like a 10W40. Some people recommend thinner in colder climates and then thicker in hot. I run the same year round, 10W30.
Coolant - any good 50/50 mix. I've seen some people go with a 70/30 mix (70% coolant with 30% water). Then you can top off with water from time to time if needed. If totally empty, your rig should hold about 10.5 qts. If you buy pre-mixed, it's easier. If you mix yourself, use distilled water. Don't use the garden hose and put those minerals in your system. There is ELC (Extended life coolant) or conventional. CJ's were made before ELC was introduced, but it can still be used with a freshly flushed system. ELC is nice because it lasts for years. Just use a good quality "green" coolant.
Brakes is another area where it depends on your uses. I have 4-wheel discs and 35" tires on mine and use semi-metallic (middle of the road). Brake pads are made of different materials and fall into three categories: organic, semi-metallic and ceramic. The lining material chosen will impact the length of brake life, the amount of noise heard when the brakes are applied, and how quickly the brakes bring you to a stop. For the front Dana30 with discs, I use Best Brake #MKD203. If you need new caliper pins (sometimes the recessed allen head gets stripped/warbled out) use Best Brake #H5029. If you still have the AMC20 with the stock drums in the back, Best Brake #151 is for you. These are bonded shoes as opposed to using rivets that can chew a drum if you let them get too low. But if I were rock crawling, I may prefer riveted shoes as the strain on bonded shoes has been known to break them loose. In terms of an upgrade, power brakes and discs in the back. The JeepsterMan has a kit to put discs on the AMC20: TheJeepsterMan In my case, I upgraded to a Dana489 rear end that had discs on it.
If you want an old school printed Chilton manual, the #40202 is what you want. I can't recall the last time I used mine with all the info online (this site is the best), but I do have one (and it's not for sale BTW). Here's a pricey one on eBay: eBay link
For filters, I don't like Fram. IMO they've come down way down in quality. But a Fram would be a #1522. Pre-82 was the 1258. The 1258 is shorter and fatter whereas the 1522 is a bit longer and skinnier. The NAPA ProSelect #21258 is a good choice. The Bosche #3423 is also a good choice. I use full synthetic in mine, but I have a SBC with aluminum heads and other different internals. I use WIX #51060XP oil filter designed for synthetic oils. That doesn't help you. But for you, WIX was the OEM and I prefer that brand. I believe the NAPA Gold is also made by WIX. The WIX has a safety bypass valve, steel spring, metal baseplate, and anti-drain feature to prevent dry starts. So the WIX 51258 would be my recommendation.
For the oil at over 100K miles, I would use any quality "high mileage" oil. These oils contain additives that condition seals and reduce oil consumption, which helps to prevent leaks. They also have a higher viscosity, providing better lubrication for aging engine parts. I'm partial to Pennzoil since I used to work for them (since bought out by Shell). Their "Platinum Full Synthetic" is what I run. Now in terms of weight, that may vary based on what you're doing and your climate. Like you, I live in the south (near Houston) and my rig is a daily driver in Houston traffic. Curious if you're doing the same. What I use may not fit the bill for a rock crawler in a high altitude or a "snow player" in deep cold weather. Some people like a thicker oil for older engines, like a 10W40. Some people recommend thinner in colder climates and then thicker in hot. I run the same year round, 10W30.
Coolant - any good 50/50 mix. I've seen some people go with a 70/30 mix (70% coolant with 30% water). Then you can top off with water from time to time if needed. If totally empty, your rig should hold about 10.5 qts. If you buy pre-mixed, it's easier. If you mix yourself, use distilled water. Don't use the garden hose and put those minerals in your system. There is ELC (Extended life coolant) or conventional. CJ's were made before ELC was introduced, but it can still be used with a freshly flushed system. ELC is nice because it lasts for years. Just use a good quality "green" coolant.
Brakes is another area where it depends on your uses. I have 4-wheel discs and 35" tires on mine and use semi-metallic (middle of the road). Brake pads are made of different materials and fall into three categories: organic, semi-metallic and ceramic. The lining material chosen will impact the length of brake life, the amount of noise heard when the brakes are applied, and how quickly the brakes bring you to a stop. For the front Dana30 with discs, I use Best Brake #MKD203. If you need new caliper pins (sometimes the recessed allen head gets stripped/warbled out) use Best Brake #H5029. If you still have the AMC20 with the stock drums in the back, Best Brake #151 is for you. These are bonded shoes as opposed to using rivets that can chew a drum if you let them get too low. But if I were rock crawling, I may prefer riveted shoes as the strain on bonded shoes has been known to break them loose. In terms of an upgrade, power brakes and discs in the back. The JeepsterMan has a kit to put discs on the AMC20: TheJeepsterMan In my case, I upgraded to a Dana489 rear end that had discs on it.
If you want an old school printed Chilton manual, the #40202 is what you want. I can't recall the last time I used mine with all the info online (this site is the best), but I do have one (and it's not for sale BTW). Here's a pricey one on eBay: eBay link
