Now for the swap-

[Buuushman]

I am trying to make a list of parts I need to do the T-150 Dana 20 to T-176 Dana 300 swap on my CJ5 . Here is what I think I need so far and if anyone can come up with anything else, please advise.

Clutch kit- ( disk, throwout bearing, pressure plate, pilot bushing)
Front drive shaft from donor vehicle
New front drive shaft yoke for Dana 300 (original is thrashed)
Shortened drive shaft for rear (donor is a scrambler)
U-joints for both shafts
Transmission and Transfer Case mounts

Here is a look at the units after de-grease and paint-





Thanks for any help-

Bushman

 

[BajaEdition]

Sounds good, take pics and post them up

 

[essexmo]

bellhousing and Transmission mounts and linkage for the shifters bolts and a Transmission jack and bottl;e jack to mate eng to Transmission bellhousing and does it use the same starter

 

[Petescj]

Nice start. Looks good.

 

[Buuushman]

Did some research and found out the front driveshaft yoke from my Dana 20 case will swap to the Dana 300 so thats $50 saved. Does anyone have a suggestion for clutch kits? The Centerforce is a bit out of my price range but I would like to upgrade a bit from stock- something with longer life/better clamping force? Also the twin stick kits vary between $AMC 150 -$300, is there really a difference?

Thanks,

Bushman

 

[Old Dog]

This is the twin stick I have, it's been good to me so far.Jeep Dana 300 Stainless twin-stick shifter with boot,CJ : eBay Motors (item 160409841846 end time Mar-12-10 18:26:37 PST)

 

[Buuushman]

Looks like a well made kit, and can't beat the price. Now to talk to the wife- sheesh.

Any ideas on clutch kit options?

 

[CJ]

Did some research and found out the front driveshaft yoke from my Dana 20 case will swap to the Dana 300 so thats $50 saved. Does anyone have a suggestion for clutch kits? The Centerforce is a bit out of my price range but I would like to upgrade a bit from stock- something with longer life/better clamping force? Also the twin stick kits vary between $AMC 150 -$300, is there really a difference?

Thanks,

Bushman

The Zoom clutch kits are way above stock... -->> Clutch Kits - SummitRacing.com

 

[Buuushman]

Right on CJ- looks like a good kit and a great price- just have to locate a pilot bushing and I'm ready to go- startin' to get all excited:drool:

Thanks alot for the great info guys,

Bushman

 

[CJ]

What pilot do you need? Sorry - haven't been keeping up - a swap or a replacement?

 

[Kane]

If you have a lift on your Jeep consider getting some degree shims for the rear axle. The long driveline will put you rear driveshaft working length at about 16 inches and the u-joint angle will be steeper than before.
Also your speedometer cable might end up being too short so try to snag that off the donor vehicle. With this Dana 300 the speedo ratio will be different since the Scrambler most likely had different ratio gearsets. Take note on how much you are off when you start driving the Jeep. I swapped from a T-176 /Dana 300 to a T-18 /Dana 20 and my speedo went from being accurate to 10% off.

 

[Buuushman]

The pilot bushing is to mate the T-176 to my AMC 304 - should be the stock bushing and I think I can get it locally. If you have info that it is different, please let me know.

Thanks, Bushman

 

[Buuushman]

Kane - I don't have a lift so that should not be an issue, but thanks for the info about the speedo- my cable got roasted on my header so it hasn't worked right in a long time, and I didn't think about the length issue.

T'anks braddah, SHOOTS!

(Sorry, small kine pidgin slips out sometimes)

 

[IOPort51]

A helpful hint you may already know. Pick up two bolts, the thread size of the Transmission side of the bell housing, 3/8 I think but they may be 5/16. They should be 5 or 6 inches long, cut the heads off and grind the cut ends smooth and rounded. Put these in the back of the bell and when you are wrestling with the T-176 it will be a lot easier to line up on these two bolts than to try to stab the input shaft. And once you have the Transmission on the studs you don’t have to support it to avoid stress on the shaft, you will find it is a lot easier to align the shaft and spline on the clutch when you are not lifting a large aluminum box full of steel gears. And you have a much better chance of starting the bolts with out cross threading them. When you have most of the bolts in the bell holding the Transmission on just pull the studs out and put in the bolts that belong there. Then put the studs in the tool box for next time.
I know all the “manly men” put the Transmission and TC up as one unit but IO is old and grey, fat and lazy. I do them one at a time, it is a ton easier.
Good luck, be safe.

 

[Buuushman]

Yep I.O., I'm doing them separate also. I finally beat myself up enough that "work smart, not hard" really appeals to me, and that Transfer Case is a beast. Good idea with the studs too, I'll try that.

Thanks, Bushman