Nutter Question/Clarification

[CDT540]

I have read quite a bit on Nuttering and I going to try and get it done this weekend. I do have a couple of questions. Since I am in TX and are not subject to emission requirements I intend to remove all the emmisions stuff including the entire harness once I have completed the nutter. In order to remove the harness I have to account for a few more wires beyond the purple and orange. On the dist side there are three wires, orange, purple and blk/wht. On the ignition box side there are four wires, orange, purple, green and black. So my questions are:

1. Does the black wire from the ign box side connect to ther blk/wht coming from the dist?

2. Does the green coming from the ign box go to the "tach" side of the coil?

3.There is a connector (blue & black wire) on the harness that connects to the back side of the carb, I assume it relates to the choke (pic 2). Once the ECU is taken out of the equation does this connection serve any purpose and if so how is dealt with once the ECU is removed and in my the harness also?

I am sorry if these questions have already been dealt with but I have read so many posts on the nutter without coming across anything that seem to provide an answer that I finally decided to just post.

Chris
'83 CJ7 (AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l 4 spd)
Austin, TX

 

[Torxhead]

After the Nutter bypass is done, which removes the computer from the ignition system, you can remove all that maze of wiring and vacumn lines from your vehicle. I think the best way to do that would be to follow the instruction sheet that is used for the Howell Fuel Injection Kit:http://www.howellefi.com/pdfs/jeep_kit.pdf
On page 6, under "Installation of Electronic Components and Wiring Harness", it will instruct you on how to properly remove the oem computer and its wiring from the system.
That black wire from the ignition control module is the ground wire for it. The best place to run that would be to the battery ground, since the distributor does not need it(A lot of guys find that hard to believe), that could help the icm last longer since it would now have a secure ground. The green wire from the icm does go the the negative side of the coil also. The choke is controlled by the manifold heater relay and is not part of the computer that I can see reading the CJ wiring schematics. I would suggest that you ditch the oem carb for a motorcraft, since it is probably shot by now and this way you will not have any problems with the now disconnected computer fuel mixture control in it. Also you could check your distributor maximum advance for at least 28 degrees, from what I understand the oem distributor does not have full advance since the computer controlled that. Or, you could by a new remanufactured distributor, and they do have a full timing advance in them, since they are also made for the non-computer CJs. They are available from Four Wheel Drive Hardware.

 

[CDT540]

If I have an aftermarket Tach and I am taking the lead for it from the Tach directly to the coil not utilizing any original wiring do I still need the green from the ICM to the coil. I guess what I mean is does the ICM green serve a purpose other than providing a feed to the tach?

 

[Torxhead]

If you disconnect the green wire from the icm to the coil neg., it will not allow the coil to ground and switch the coil on and off to fire the spark plugs. You can run the tach hookup to that connection with the green wire from the icm.

 

[CDT540]

Everything went smoothly this weekend with the bypass but I have a few of questions. I have read the entire 300+ posted on the Jeep Forum link and though it was mentioned there were no specific directions on how to address the following items.

1. Choke - since I have removed the entire wiring harness I have lost the connection to my choke. In the other thread they referenced that it will need to be addressed with a new wire but gave no direction on how to address it. I have attached pics where I traced the red wires going to the choke in the old harness. One terminates at the big plug (pic1) that connected to the other harness and the other ran all the way to the end as shown in pic2. This end was originally bolted to the side of the battery tray. It does not appear to do anything because the end is just an empty connection with a cover over it. I can remove the plug from the harness to get one of the connections back but what if anything do I do with the other end?

2. Same kinda thing with the reverse lights. The thread says that the reverse light wiring is affected when you remove the ECU wiring harness but no explanation is given on what to do to account for that. I assume it is one or more wires contained in the big plug but I have no idea which one(s) so I can’t trace them like I did with the choke wires. Is anyone familiar with this and how to address it?

3. I live in a state that does not require emission tests on a vehicle this age so I want to remove all the associated emission plumbing. Half of it had already been disabled by the PO in a not so tidy manner. For example the PVC connection to the canister had been removed and plugged plus the nipple for the Dist Vac connection is broke off the canister and is currently not drawing vacuum obviously. So I have to determine whether to locate a replacement canister and plumb according to the post in other thread or figure out if I should and or how to totally eliminate the EGR and the plumbing related to the canister. I would assume if I did eliminate the EGR, etc that I would still need to leave the canister for the tank to vent to. Also, the PO had already disabled the EGR by removing the tube and plugging the exhaust manifold. They did not plug the bottom of the intake manifold where the EGR tube connected. Is that a problem? Has anyone done a full delete of the EGR, canister, etc that could provide some guidance? Pros and cons?

Thanks for any input...

Chris
'83 CJ7 (AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l -4spd)

 

[Torxhead]

I would suggest finding a wiring schematic for your vehicle, they are availible online somewhere, the only one I have is for an '86 which is a bit different from yours, it is located in "My Gallery" on this site. I would suggest a shop manual to help you out with some of you other issues, Chilton has a Jeep manual with a section on emissions and so does the Clymer Shop manual. In the Clymer manual there was a page that had an application for a wiring schematic for whatever CJ needed.