Oil leak from INSIDE distributor

[Flex BT]

Edit: post topic wrong, I meant distributor.

I had a slow leak that looked like it was coming from the base of the distributor. I saw there is a gasket there and I removed / replaced it. Come to find out the leak was actually coming from what looks like a weep hole near the top of the distributor stem. Are there any other internal seals I can replace or is it time for a new dizzy?

 

[JR74CJ5]

Little confusing...

confussion was cleared up

Is it for sure engine oil?

How about a picture of what you are looking at for us all to check out too?



~JR

 

[Flex BT]

Ok I'm a lot more tired than I thought. It's the distributor, not the differential. Let me edit that post.

 

[Petescj]

Fixed

It's the distributor, not the differential..

 

[JR74CJ5]

So do you still have all the stock stuff (distributor etc)?

I didn't think that the oil was supposed to be inside the shaft... Let me see if I can find a blown up internal view of a distributor...

Perhaps there's an internal seal?

 

[Flex BT]

It's the stock distributor with the team rush upgraded cap / rotor.

 

[JR74CJ5]

Check this out...

http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f2/distributor-oil-leak-6696/#post57760

Guy thought the oil was coming from the base, then realized top... sounds familiar?



Maybe PCV valve too etc?

Try that before a new dizzy


~ Jr

 

[Flex BT]

I put a new pcv in about 6 months ago so it should be good. I'll check it out when I get home tomorrow to be sure.

 

[JR74CJ5]

hmmm

May check to ensure a tube hasent been crimped through the pcv system?

Anywho, it was a long shot, but so familiar i had to link it...

I'll let some others give some opinions...


~ Jr

 

[CJim7]

I guess under certain extreme PCV failure, positive crank case pressure could push oil up through the dizzy....but you would notice it coming from everywhere else also....into the air cleaner, out the dipstick, etc.

Are you sure it's engine oil and not grease from the distributor components?

 

[Flex BT]

Definitely engine oil. I figured theres an internal seal somewhere since the gear moves inside the stationary shaft. If anybody's got anything else let me know, otherwise I'm looking at a pretty pricey piece of hardware I did the team rush upgrade with a new coil instead of putting in a DUI dizzy because it'd be cheaper. Weeeeeeell look at me now.

 

[mtnwhlr]

It's probably just a o-ring on the shaft, the shaft souldn't be that hard to remove to replace it. I would try that before spending the money on a new one.

 

[Flex BT]

I checked my haynes manual and it doesn't look like there are any user replaceable parts that fit the bill, it just calls that whole area the "distributor housing". The crown, omix and other distributors seem to start at $AMC 150 . Anyone know anything about these guys or why they are half the price?

1978-1986 Jeep CJ7 Distributor - A1 Cardone 84-4691 - OE replacement

Usually I'm inclined to think buy cheap, buy twice but I wouldn't put it past all these clowns to have really inflated prices. Napa's reman. unit is also around $61 with an $18 core replacement.

 

[mtnwhlr]

If it's just a o-ring you can get a replacement at any autoparts store.

 

[es335]

I just fixed mine. Was finding puddles of oil on the water pump (AMC 304 AMC/4Brl). I cleaned the entire front of the motor and started it. Took about 10 seconds and the leak was clearly visible-where the distributor meets the top of the water pump. I pulled the Dist after marking the block and the rotor. Found the previous owner did not replace the o-ring-there was NOTHING there. Since I was working late Sunday
(no one open), I just used "the right stuff" silicone, dropped the disributer in, double ckd the timing with a light-all good, no leak.

 

[JR74CJ5]

Since I was working late Sunday
(no one open), I just used "the right stuff" silicone, dropped the disributer in, double ckd the timing with a light-all good, no leak.

Don't take this as an attack at all against you bud!

Please do not use silicone, in this instance, if at all possible to avoid it....!

The gasket is a specific thickness. Any change in gear footprint or "riding pattern" between distributor gear and camshaft distributor drive gear, especially in a AMC v-8, is a problem waiting to happen.

Not to mention small adjustments to timing are no longer "easy" tasks...

If i was on the trail, with no spare oil, and had a few days of wheeling to still do, I'd do the silicone trick as a last resort... Don't get me wrong . I'm not above "rigging" a temp fix.

These gaskets should not be hard to find, nor are they expensive.

However, we should remember OP states has already changed this seal we are speaking of:

I had a slow leak that looked like it was coming from the base of the distributor. I saw there is a gasket there and I removed / replaced it. Come to find out the leak was actually coming from what looks like a weep hole near the top of the distributor stem. Are there any other internal seals I can replace or is it time for a new dizzy?

Ok my public service announcment is completed, back to regularly scheduled programming


~ Jr

 

[es335]

Absoloutely no offense taken-agree with you ! In my case the PO (obviously not an engine builder!!!) evidently forgot the o-ring completely! So my thought was the "foot-print", gear mesh was probably not much changed by me using silicone. However, also to your point, I can't change the timing without "breaking" the seal.....so I need to get the proper gasket ASAP-and plan to do so!