Old school Chevy 350

[Petescj]

Im pretty sure after reading alot and asking questions enough Im going to use an old 350 for my Limited . The one that all the guys 40 and over call a 350. I figure I can use a cam to make it do want I want. It doesnt have a bad torque curve from what I see in a stock four barrel configuration. Throttle body injection and Im good. Thoughts?


!!!350 CHEVY ENGINE!!! Heres the text from the ad:

I have a earlier chevy 350 engine for sale. The engine came out of a 1972 chevy pickup which had about 82,000 miles on it . block #3970010 and on the head ko813 TYZ. The motor ran good. It has a two barrel intake and carb on it now. I was going to use it in my hot rod that I am building, but decide to go all out on a hi-performance 350 with a tri -power set up. Motor comes as pictured except I need the alternator. Can deliver if needed. Asking $300.00 or OR BEST OFFER. CALL 610-767-0193. THANKS..

 

[mstar]

Around these parts we call that a "core" $100.00 tops.Where you planning on rebuilding it? If I were inclined to do a swap I would try and find a 400sbc as a core for a built.Cost the same and you get 50 extra cubic inches. mike

 

[harleydragon]

I have had a lot of jeeps with 350's and loved them

 

[rr41mag]

Around these parts we call that a "core" $100.00 tops.Where you planning on rebuilding it? If I were inclined to do a swap I would try and find a 400sbc as a core for a built.Cost the same and you get 50 extra cubic inches. mike

X2except for the 400. I'd stay away from them, they are a bored out with very thin walls

 

[Old Dog]

I'm 99% sure that pick-ups from the 70's all had Q-jets. At least all that I saw growing up back than. I had a 70,74, 76, and a 77.

 

[harleydragon]

they were available with 2 or 4 barrel..I would say that it is worth more than a hundred bucks..I would go at least 250

 

[Old Dog]

Before I bought an old engine that needed rebuilt I would think about going this route, $1500 for a new one, is a heck of a deal. JEGS - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS
Or the 350 ram jet for $6000 :drool:

 

[tarry99]

Before I bought an old engine that needed rebuilt I would think about going this route, $1500 for a new one, is a heck of a deal. JEGS - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS
Or the 350 ram jet for $6000 :drool:

X 2 on what OLD DOG says.........that old two barrel motor just from the looks of it's been laying around quite a while , cylinder walls will be rusted up!..........not sure why that old boy would be upgrading the motor on his hot rod cause they look pretty good together.

 

[mstar]

X2except for the 400. I'd stay away from them, they are a bored out with very thin walls

I owned a '78 k10 pickup. great motor. I don't recall that they were"bored out" .But you are entiteled to your opinion. mike

 

[Scooter402]

Having first-hand experience with the SBC 400 blocks (I built the one in my CJ ) I can tell you they are not bored-over anything blocks. They have "siamesed" cylinder walls, allowing for the 4.125 bore. The siamesed cylinders are the reason for the steam holes in the decks, and needing them in the cylinder heads.

Having had a 350 in a YJ, and a 383 stroker in my CJ at one point, I'd say go for it. Parts are CHEAP, they're extremely easy to work on...

Plus, that one you have posted, having the 3970010 casting number, is the best of the 350 blocks. It has a higher nickel content in it, making the block stronger. Chances are the cylinder walls are still in good shape, assuming it has been maintained well. That, and it's a 4 bolt main (SHOULD be, I should say...I did find a "rare-ish" 2 bolt main 327 block with that number when I had my YJ).

The casting number given on the heads doesn't ring a bell, should be a 6 or 7 digit number under the valve cover.

I'd say do it to it!

 

[mtnwhlr]

I find it hard to believe its a 4bolt main with a 2bbl carb unless someone took the 4bbl setup and stuck a 2bbl on it.

 

[1930u]

personally I prefer the old engines over the new inexpensive crate motors. I've had problems with castings and other issues. If the engine is sound any 350-400, 70-78, I would consider. Many 77-79 truck motors were also 4-bolt main.

 

[007]

I'm pretty sure that casting number is a 4 bolt block. Had one myself. Those stickers on the valve covers look like Goodwrench stickers and if so would indicate a GM crate motor. However those valve covers can come from any number of places but it's worth asking about nonetheless and it doesn't really matter what the answer is. I'd just be merely curious. Have the block checked and HAVE THE HEADS CHECKED too as some are prone to crack in the middle between exhaust ports. Do a simple Edlebrock Performer cam and intake and a reasonable 4bbl and you'll want for nothing more for your CJ.


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[1930u]

010 blocks were 2 and 4 bolt

 

[Petescj]

I probably should have added some more detail to my original post. The most Ive done engine wise ever was put the top end on fresh short block years ago. Id like to expand on that and actually build an engine , not just assemble part of it. I had thought about doing that with the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l . Then I considered what I wanted out of the Cj and decided to go the Chevy route since it would bolt right to my SM 465.

After inquiring about the Chevy I decided Im probably not ready for one of the newer fuel injected ones that I was steered toward. Thats when I started looking around for a older one. I figured I could rebuild one of these and throw on a T.B.I. setup. I figure I could probably get the one in the ad delivered to my place for $200-$250.

Buying a crate engine takes away the fun factor of doing it myself. I didnt contact the seller yet but I'll definately be asking the 2 or 4 bolt main question. In the ad it states "it currently has a 2 barrel carb and manifold". That sounds like it was swapped on to me but thats another question as well.

 

[007]

010 blocks were 2 and 4 bolt

Yep - that's right. I got to looking over my old notes and that's correct. Thanks...

Pete, if you want to redo this motor yourself I recommend this book - www.amazon.com/How-Rebuild-Your-Small-Block-Chevy/dp/1557880298/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394199207&sr=8-1&keywords=how+to+rebuild+your+small+block+chevy

I'm not even kidding. I used this book 10 years ago when I did mine I was putting in a pickup and it's fantastic - even if you think you know "enough" it will save you time.

 

[rufus1138]

+1 books are awesome and i havent seen much bs info in automotive reference material. these build references are good, lots of math tables and "if this then do this" type of info, im definitely getting a small block ford book when i get my mustang, target for that ride is a 500hp na sbf with enough reliability to run 87 octane or close to it and go 100k without overhaul.

 

[mstar]

Pete, kudo's to you for wanting to build your own engine.It will be a worthwhile endeavor.About a zillion words written on the subject,lot of urban myths surround sbc .I refer to several different publications I have on hand for info I may have forgotten about.Lot on you tube these days.
Just a heads up for ALL members,the use of a small block chev V8 with it's performance potential should require a STEEL flywheel as a minimum and a scattershield or blow-proof bellhousing if possible.I know this is a added expense but how much are your feet worth.The steel flywheels and parts in general for sbc are very reasonable . In my circle a steel flywheel and Lakewood bellhousing are standard equipment on any performance application. Safety first. I have seen first hand the result of a pressure plate exploding in a cj jeep ,driver lost one foot. Not good.Now I will step down from my soap box and ya'll have a great day. III mike

 

[HackFabrication]

The Chevy vs Ford vs AMC debate is going to rage on forever. I don't include Chrysler because there is little to no aftermarket support for that swap. I look at it this way: Run what you want.

When I was pondering options on my CJ, I looked into rebuilding the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l . It had a cracked block so that was out. Getting a 4.0L was an option, but I wanted a bit more. I looked into the 350 SBC route, but the engines in my area were all extremely high mile motors, in need of total rebuilds. Or they were build up race motors, with didn't meet the needs of my application.

I went with a 5.0L Ford engine. Plentiful in my area, I ended up with two of them:





Deciding that rebuilding one the two engines would cost me a few thousand, I looked into buying a long block from Ford Racing. Better parts, more performance, etc. But then found a Ford Racing 5.0L on eBay. It was exactly what I was looking for. And more:



Engine had under 2000 miles on it, was never raced or gassed. It included the manifold, and all the other goodies. Plus more. I made the deal, drove to Maryland and picked it up the following week.

Unless you've got a connection at a machine shop, doing a total rebuild is going to be expensive. IMHO, better to buy that 'core' engine, and see about a Jasper rebuilt.

 

[007]

I understand what Hack is saying and he's right; but to follow that logic onward would have you buying a newer Jeep as opposed to a CJ for the same reasons. Newer, more efficient, blah, blah, blah. Again, that doesn't make it wrong though.

I would apply the same logic we rely on to own these old Jeeps to the older motors. It, like the Jeep, will need some work and may end up being more expensive if your time has any value, but the enjoyment gleaned from doing the work is, well...


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