One piece rear axle upgrade
One piece rear axle upgrade
- Thread starter mjack777
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PaRenegade
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258, T-4, D300, trussed AMC20 w/Detroit & 1pc., Dana30 w/TrueTrac, 3.73:1; just finished a restomod
Moser Engineering. In 15 years no problems.
Old Dog
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- 83 CJ7 350 tbi, TH350, D300 twin sticked & clocked, narrowed Chief D44 Eaton Elocker & Moser shafts, Explorer 8.8 Detroit locker, 410's, RE 4.5" spring lift 1" body lift, 35" Claws, cage tied to frame, Corbeau baja seats, HD tie rod and draglink, u-bolts flipped, custom skid plate and sliders, Warn 9.5ti winch with Amsteel synthetic line
mine are from superior axle, 6 years old now.
NorthwestCJer
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- 1984 CJ7
D30 4.10's locker, M20 4.10's
one peice axles locker,
258 with MC2100 and K&N,
Nutter bipass, 8mm wires,
Or-Fab cage,
Tuffy console,
Bestop seats,
GM power steering,
4 inch Rancho lift, Edlebrock shocks,
On board Air,
Smittybuilt winch bumper,
M8000 Warn, 10k Synthetic,
Swing tire carrier with Hi-Lift,
extra fuel, shovel, chainsaw,
33" KM2's on 8 inch rims,
Bestop Super Top!
I run Yukons. 32/33 inch tires and Detroit locker.
Be carefull when installing one piece axles. Many mess up on the bearings.
The outer bearing is a tapered, Timken bearing that needs a specific amount of preload.
Also many install these and think they do not need to do anything again.
This is not true. There is little to no oil from the diff that gets to these bearings.
I have heard horror stories of bearing failure! all have been to neglect and/or installation errors.
Also, there are actually only two true manufacturers of axles, the rest buy from them and brand label!
Be carefull when installing one piece axles. Many mess up on the bearings.
The outer bearing is a tapered, Timken bearing that needs a specific amount of preload.
Also many install these and think they do not need to do anything again.
This is not true. There is little to no oil from the diff that gets to these bearings.
I have heard horror stories of bearing failure! all have been to neglect and/or installation errors.
Also, there are actually only two true manufacturers of axles, the rest buy from them and brand label!
ken98k
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{1990 yj 2.5L i-4 AX-5 NP231 Dana 30 front Dana 35c rear}
1996 XJ Cherokee 4.0 HO
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Do you pull your axels periodically to grease the bearings?
Who are the 2 actual manufactures?
PaRenegade
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They should be packed well with grease upon installation. The inner and outer seals keep the oil (& dirt) out and the grease in.
Old Dog
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IMO you should, just as you should repack the front bearings every once in a while.
NorthwestCJer
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- 1984 CJ7
D30 4.10's locker, M20 4.10's
one peice axles locker,
258 with MC2100 and K&N,
Nutter bipass, 8mm wires,
Or-Fab cage,
Tuffy console,
Bestop seats,
GM power steering,
4 inch Rancho lift, Edlebrock shocks,
On board Air,
Smittybuilt winch bumper,
M8000 Warn, 10k Synthetic,
Swing tire carrier with Hi-Lift,
extra fuel, shovel, chainsaw,
33" KM2's on 8 inch rims,
Bestop Super Top!
Yukon Hardcore, Foote, and Moser...three.. sorry not two.
I always forget one.
And... YES. I do pull my shafts and repack.
Especially if its a wet wheeling year.
I always forget one.
And... YES. I do pull my shafts and repack.
Especially if its a wet wheeling year.
ColeTrickle
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'80 J10 Honcho 360/727/NP208,
'79 J10 Honcho 360/TH400/QT,
'75 J20 "Workhorse" 360/T18/D20
Not to hijack but I got a question also about the install which may be in my future.
Can a do it yourselfer do the preload on the bearing(s)?
What does this involve? Any special tools?
Thanks.
Can a do it yourselfer do the preload on the bearing(s)?
What does this involve? Any special tools?
Thanks.
Purple77CJ7
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I have moser axles. They have pretty good instructions to set up the pre load. If you have a caliper that measures depth, you can set it up.
ColeTrickle
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'80 J10 Honcho 360/727/NP208,
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'75 J20 "Workhorse" 360/T18/D20
Neep Help.
Just picked up my 82 CJ7 . knew it needed a fill brake job, but also notices I was losing some oil from the passenger side axle/break connection. I found that someone has done a 1pc conversion, but did it with a hammer
The spacer in front of the inner seal has some ugly hammer marks.
How do i get that spacer out???
The cup/race slips in and out is this right?
Then the pressed retaining ring on the axle was also done with a hammer...
I can not confirm which axle it is... the hub is shinny so i am guessing Crown
Need your help.
Just picked up my 82 CJ7 . knew it needed a fill brake job, but also notices I was losing some oil from the passenger side axle/break connection. I found that someone has done a 1pc conversion, but did it with a hammer
The spacer in front of the inner seal has some ugly hammer marks.
How do i get that spacer out???
The cup/race slips in and out is this right?
Then the pressed retaining ring on the axle was also done with a hammer...
I can not confirm which axle it is... the hub is shinny so i am guessing Crown
Need your help.
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- 1965 CJ-5 Buick V6 Ford T-18 4-Speed Spicer 20/18,Warn Overdrive Dana 30 & 44 w/Powr-Lok posi / both,4.27 gears 33" tires.
Neep Help.
Just picked up my 82 CJ7 . knew it needed a fill brake job, but also notices I was losing some oil from the passenger side axle/break connection. I found that someone has done a 1pc conversion, but did it with a hammer
The spacer in front of the inner seal has some ugly hammer marks.
How do i get that spacer out???
The cup/race slips in and out is this right?
Then the pressed retaining ring on the axle was also done with a hammer...
I can not confirm which axle it is... the hub is shinny so i am guessing Crown
Need your help.
If your talking about the retainer ring it should have been pressed on.............with a press and not a hammer..............needs to come off the same way.
PaRenegade
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258, T-4, D300, trussed AMC20 w/Detroit & 1pc., Dana30 w/TrueTrac, 3.73:1; just finished a restomod
If I remember correctly, I haven't had to mess with it since putting Moser's in years ago, the race or bearing cup (which I take is what your asking about), comes out with some jerking of the axle/hub. I don't recall any "spacer" other than a shim that's the same shape as the outer seals mounting flange with 4 bolt holes. It should be, from the inside: inner seal, bearing (pressed on), race, shim, brake backer plate, outer seal, dust cover. Correct me if I'm wrong.
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Combs,
Not sure I'm understanding that correctly.......The seal should be the first Item in the housing , then the bearings axle retainer and axle..........perhaps your talking about a bearing cup that the bearing race runs on? A picture would be great..............Normally a slide hammer 3 jaw puller is used to reach in there to pull the seal. Hope that helps.
Here is the the Bearing repair kit.
What I have working from the inside out...
Inner seal and then a spacer?(top right of picture) then a bearing race tapper away from the diff. The race pulls out by hand.
On the axle..
Retaining ring (Bottom right of picture) this I know is suppose to be pressed on, but mine was BEATEN on and is not strait... some idiot
then the bearing (Taper towards the diff)
backing plate
outer seal
dust cover
axle.
So is the three legged berring puller the correct tool to remove the spacer?
is it suppose to be tight?
What I have working from the inside out...
Inner seal and then a spacer?(top right of picture) then a bearing race tapper away from the diff. The race pulls out by hand.
On the axle..
Retaining ring (Bottom right of picture) this I know is suppose to be pressed on, but mine was BEATEN on and is not strait... some idiot
then the bearing (Taper towards the diff)
backing plate
outer seal
dust cover
axle.
So is the three legged berring puller the correct tool to remove the spacer?
is it suppose to be tight?
- Posts
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- california
- Vehicle(s)
- 1965 CJ-5 Buick V6 Ford T-18 4-Speed Spicer 20/18,Warn Overdrive Dana 30 & 44 w/Powr-Lok posi / both,4.27 gears 33" tires.
Here is the the Bearing repair kit.
What I have working from the inside out...
Inner seal and then a spacer?(top right of picture) then a bearing race tapper away from the diff. The race pulls out by hand.
On the axle..
Retaining ring (Bottom right of picture) this I know is suppose to be pressed on, but mine was BEATEN on and is not strait... some idiot
then the bearing (Taper towards the diff)
backing plate
outer seal
dust cover
axle.
So is the three legged berring puller the correct tool to remove the spacer?
is it suppose to be tight?
Yes the slide hammer is normally used to reach in there if the 3 jaws will reach around behind.........sometimes you can get by with one jaw moving around the circle a little at a time........if not there may be another specialty puller available for that.Your Bearing cup which I believe your calling a Race should "Not" be loose in the housing it should be a snug to simi-press fit , but not finger tight.
Old Dog
Always Off-Roading Jeeper
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- 83 CJ7 350 tbi, TH350, D300 twin sticked & clocked, narrowed Chief D44 Eaton Elocker & Moser shafts, Explorer 8.8 Detroit locker, 410's, RE 4.5" spring lift 1" body lift, 35" Claws, cage tied to frame, Corbeau baja seats, HD tie rod and draglink, u-bolts flipped, custom skid plate and sliders, Warn 9.5ti winch with Amsteel synthetic line
The bearing race should be a light press. The spacer between the race and the inner seal should be a loose slip fit.
You should be able to just grab it with your fingers and wiggle it out.
You should be able to just grab it with your fingers and wiggle it out.
And that is what scares me..
The race (cone shaped piece with the thicker side facing the diff) is an exact fit, but can be installed & removed by hand.
The spacer how ever has been beaten into the tube so that when the race is installed it sits flush with the tube flange. is it suppose to be in that far?