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opininon on 2 CJ7's

opininon on 2 CJ7's

hopefulcj

Jeeper
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Location
north florida
Vehicle(s)
1980 CJ7-258 I6, MC 2100 carb, team rush upgrade, T4, D300 tcase, D30 w/aussie locker in the front, AMC20 open, I think PO put 4.88s in the diffs, 35,000-135,000 miles, you pick. 4"susp lift, 2" shackle, 35" <-BAD WORD-> cepek AT's on black steel wheels, 1 1/4" spydertrak wheel spacers, most everything else i believe is stock, finding things out as I go
I am planning on buying a CJ7 in the next few months, here are two that I like and have spotted in my area. They are both 1985 CJs with the I6 and T-5 tranny (i know this is not the best, but I dont plan on doing anything crazy). I have not seen these vehicles in person, but have talked to both of them, the owner of the first jeep is older and seemed to take alot of pride in his jeep which I can see why. The second was younger and didn't explain in detail how bad the rust was.

1885 Jeep CJ7
Pros-lots of after market upgrades
- original motor/tranny with low miles(claims)
-said that there is rust in the usual place, both have been treated
-with a chemical rust converter, the spots under the door have been covered, -but one by the windshield is still rusty
-has heat
-lots of extras
-i like it the way it is
CONS-tires are to big and low on tread, id like to go down to 35s
-no radio
-original gearing with big tires
-the rust(he says that he has fixed most of it, but only covered it up, also stated that most was surface rust, except for under the doors)

and the second

1985 JEEP CJ7!! ~~~!!!!PRICE DROP!!!!~~~
PROS- the price, leaves room to do some work to it
-new tires, the size I want
-i like the color as well
CONS-dont know the condition of the rust(he said it was bad in the floor, but still held his weight-so this could be taken both ways, windshield rusted out, driver/passenger sides, he said that some of the rust in both areas was all the way through)
-no heat
-i think the jeep is overall in not as good condition as the green one
-jeep needs work done,

Overall, I know that no one can make a conclusion without seeing and driving the vehicles, I just want to know which one you would go for? The first is great, but double the price, plus I would have to buy tires in the future so add an extra 1000 plus to that. The second needs work, but it is running. They both drive the jeeps around town and on the highway.

Thanks for your input guys, I know this is a vague weird question to answer, I just feel better making a decision with some outside input. Pros/cons, anything would be great. Thanks again, Jacob.
 
Jacob,
It boils down to how much work are you able to do your self or want to do. If you can weld, you can fix or replace rusted out stuff, go with the cheaper one. If your not real mechanical, get the other one or look for one set up like you want it. All these CJ have rust, I welded in new sheet metal on the floor because you could put your foot through it.
 
IMO I would look for something as close to stock as possable and build it myself.
If you do go to look at something already built, take someone that knows about cj's with you. I've seen some real horror stories here when someone bought an already built cj. :eek:

Jeep #1 with the 37's is going to drive like :dung: with thoes super long shackles.
 
HopefulCJ, I would look for the BEST CJ you can afford and myself would run from any rust bucket. Repairing stuff allways costs more than can be recouped and if someone has already done it for you all the better, better yet is one that was well cared for that is in good original condition. Be couteous to the owner but believe nothing they tell you if it does not make sence or add up to you. ANY CJ you are concidering would require you to get on your back and look over everything UNDER the Jeep for things that will need repair by you afterward. Don't wear nice clothes when you go to see it or bring something to lay/crawl on.
Good luck and Hopefully you will get a nice CJ!
 
if i had to decide between the 2 i would go with the first. because he has the receipts for everything so he is at least intelligent and can prove what he says. and no bondo is a big +. also adult owned and driven is good.

the other guy needs new floors? and he welded up the rear diff??? him welding the diff is a good enough reason not to buy right there, because that says he is to cheap to buy real locker and he obviously welded it because he likes to off road and dog it out. (not good for the buyer)

Either way you look at it buying a jeep is like getting a box of chocolates you'll never know what your going to get. also take someone with you thats also good at mechanics. 4 eyes is better than 2.

the key to wheeling and dealing is knowing when to walk away.

you wont to make sure your buying someones Jeep instead of buying someones problems.

also a good indicator is find out why they are selling. if they had a baby and need $ then he likes the jeep but is sacrificing it for $ which is alot better compared to someone thats looking for something different. if they are just looking for something different this could mean that he is tired of messing with problems.
 
I'm thinkin' I'd buy the second. I beleive the closer to stock, the less PO problems you'd have. Plus, it allows you to do what or how you think it needs to be. But you know the 'ol saying..buyer beware. I second the idea of taking extra eyes with you. Here's another idea for you..how about buying the both of 'em?
 
HopefulCJ, I would look for the BEST CJ you can afford and myself would run from any rust bucket!

Yup, Unless you're good at body work, or don't mind spending a BUNCH of money for someone else to do it, stay away from rust buckets.
 
i would go with the first one. you can always get smaller tires plus it looked to me like it was in better condition. just alittle advise when i bought my jeep at the beginning of this year i spent more than i wanted to but it was well worth it. by the way if you are willing to travel there are alot of rust free jeeps in memphis tn area on craigslist. good luck
 

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