Opinion About this Jeep?

[Soldier]

This is going to be the first vehicle I buy and I am not sure what it is I am looking for other than major issues like rust or a cruddy engine. Can anyone tell me if there are any red flags I should be looking for, and what I should actually be buying this jeep for? The vehicle looked great and as far as I could tell the engine ran really smooth in the test drive. It had a couple minor rust marks and the spare tire will have to be replaced. That and there are a couple aesthetic fixes I will want to work on, stuff from wear and tear.

So, can anyone give me ideas of what I should look for when me and my buddy look at it a second time, and what price should I be offering for, because I feel as if the asking price is a little on the high side. He is asking for 6500.

This is what the listing says, if it helps anyone with what the jeep looks like.



:1978 Jeep CJ7 for sale. 3 speed manual, 4x4, AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l 6 cylinder.
:Has upgraded 2 bbl Weber carburetor. Replaced: fuel pump, starter, valve cover gasket, distributor cap, rotar button, spark plugs and wires.
:Odometer shows 87,000
:condition: good
:cylinders: 6 cylinders
4wd
:fuel: gas
: paintcolor:green
Transmission : manual
type: offroad

 

[Lumpy Grits]

:ww:

IMO-Kinda high price'd.
Let me ask you this-How good of a wrench are you?
How much oil leakage did you see-and where was the oil come'n from.
Did you confirm 4WD does in fact work?
Like your 'handle' for the forum. Where're you station'd?
LG

 

[Soldier]

I'm not bad with a wrench, but could definitely use more experience, but there are plenty of guys I know who can pick up the slack for me. Didn't see an oil leak, however it did seem to overspill at the cap ever slightly. I also didn't double check to see if the 4x4 worked, I will do that when I go see them next. Oh, and I at Hunter AAF.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

I'm not bad with a wrench, but could definitely use more experience, but there are plenty of guys I know who can pick up the slack for me. Didn't see an oil leak, however it did seem to overspill at the cap ever slightly. I also didn't double check to see if the 4x4 worked, I will do that when I go see them next. Oh, and I at Hunter AAF.

"Overspill"? Is that at the eng oil fill? That's a sign of blow by or wrong PCV valve.
Have'n 3 sons as multi-tour, military combat vets. I know well of the daily 'grind' you deal with be'n away from home. Stay strong/stay focused.
When you see the Jeep again. Take the best 'wrench' with you that you know.
Do you have a jeep club on base? That could be a 'brain-trust', to get to know.
How long has this Jeep been up for sale? If the Jeep ck's out OK- Then counter offer $5500.00. But- ONLY after you see the title.
Also-Get the lic plate # and have it 'ran', to be sure everything checks out as to who the state sez the owner is.
LG

 

[Soldier]

Thanks for the help, I really appreciate it. I will look into it all on my next visit. The jeeps only been posted for 7 days

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Get the VIN #, there several sites than will break the vin down so you know what the Jeep had when it left AMC.
LG

 

[mtnwhlr]

I always go by how well it drives down the road. If tracks straight and is not all over the road the suspension is in good shape and it shifts and runs good then it has no major problems. But I always climb under them and look it over good. I whish you luck.

 

[Peanut Butter]

Be sure to look inside the tub opposite the diamond plate for rust. Those plates love to hold moisture and create rust. Also take a good look at the wiring. It seems like every Jeep I've ever looked at had screwed up wiring both behind the dash and in the engine bay. Looks like a good starter vehicle though.

 

[Hedgehog]

Pay special attention to the fender area just behind the front wheels. It's double plated there and rust loves to get between the plates. Especially look for paint bubbling. Also, look at the area where the rear end transitions into the floor area. There's a 7" or so step there. Sand, salt, water and trouble likes to gather there. Look closely at the floor boards, especially if there's a carpet on the floor. Check the frame rails especially in the rear around the gas tank.

 

[Neuner]

All good notes. If you'll notice, most are pointing towards rust. Engines, trannys, drivelines can all be swapped but I think it's more difficult to isolate and repair a rusted and weakened frame or body. Trying to isolate and resolve an overly messy or spliced up ball of wiring is not any fun either. In an effort to keep it simple with the suggestions mentioned, drive it and if it tracks straight and runs/shifts fine, then concentrate on reviewing rust and wiring.

I'm not familiar with the '78 so guys - anything odd about this year that he may want to know about before jumping in to?

 

[Hedgehog]

If stock:
The Transmission will be fairly decent.
Decent engines.
Dana 20 rear.
Possibly the big or 6 bolt front disk brakes.
Narrow track.
Emissions could be a mess. ...Computer
I'm not sure, but I believe the frame is fully boxed.
Parts are fairly easy to find, as opposed to the '72-'75 CJ's
His doors are square, real CJ's have a hump in the door, but that is most likely my CJ5 prejudice coming through.

Lots of good, better than the SR4 , T-4 & T-5 Transmission debacle a couple years later. I did like the Iron Duke engine though.

 

[Dan77CJ7]

I live in denver and it seems the market is really strong, all the CJs(5,6,7) are all over priced i mean like nothing under 7k worth buying, i realize they have value but come on! full of rust with clutches soaked from leaky rear mains.. i picked up my newest, an 86'-7 for 2 grand, the dude wanted 5K. what im trying to say is everyone loves their Cjs and wants ALL the money for them.

IMO its better to get a clean tub, proper emmisions equipment, and wiring that hasnt been spiced/hacked( no offence to Mr. Hack, j/k) back the stone age!!! when i look at a CJ i look for stock ones with little to no upgrades. clean is the key, all the mechanical stuff is easy...as long has all the parts are their.

i also try not to buy soft tops, for me all the softies i checked out have the most cancer. hard tops/steel doors seem to keep it a touch dryer.. plus you get a hard top/steel doors! that could be $1000+ itself maybe more...

So if you have 6k to spend, think about taking 3k and leaving it at home, take the other 3k and try and find a clean stocker, you will it just takes some time. then when you bring home a complete and cancer free Cj, and you'll have 3k to make her yours!

again this is just my outlook.. good luck and be patient , i hope you find what your looking for