Options.......

[CJim7]

The one thing I've learned over the years as a Jeep owner: If a project looks easy, allow yourself twice the time to finish it.

I'm in the process of removing my steering box to rebuild it. However, the 3 bolts that hold the box mount (as well as the driverside shackle hanger) are spinning freely

So my options are these: I can cut a window on the side of the frame to access the inner nuts, or I can drill holes down through the top of the frame and slink a deep well down onto the nuts (ya, for some reason they are nuts instead of square nutserts)

What is my best option? Although it will need plated and welded, I don't particularly like weakening the side of that part of the frame.....but it would be easier in a sense

 

[Lumpy Grits]

The 'nuts' inside the frame are square.
Cut the frame's side. and see if you can tack weld'em back in place.
When you re-install the bolts. Coat the threads with copper anti-seize.
LG

 

[CJim7]

Thanks LG. I spied through the hole on the side of the frame and coulda swore they were hex nuts....which I thought was odd since I've only seen square nutserts.

I've had to cut into my frame before (tranny mount) but the hanger area has me a little gunshy. I'll just keep the cutting as minimal as possible......

 

[Kane]

I ended up cutting out the section with the nut and welded on new grade 8 nuts, then welded the plate back in. I had to do about 10 of them.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Your welding of those nuts killed the 'temper' that gave'em the GD8 rating.
I would not torque the bolt to GD8 specs.
LG

 

[Kane]

Yeah. I used them because they also hold up to rust better and I had them in my stock.

 

[Woolyworm]

Just did this with mine. Didn't weld them, just lock nuts and torqued them. My winch mount wraps and bolts through the frame in that area as well. It's 3/8" thick with 3/4" bolts.

Wooly

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Nice!
Let me suggest that you coat the bolt's threads with copper anti-seize.
I do that anydangtime I'm work'n with frame fasteners.
LG

 

[Hedgehog]

If it were me I 'd find a 1/2" piece of metal, cut it to fit in the frame, Mark it well, drill and tap it, install in the frame and bolt down the bracket, then weld it in place, cover the hole in the frame and weld that in place. After all is cool again remove the bolts and run a tap in to make sure the threads are good. I'm kind of in two minds on anti-seize. It works well for what it is made to do, sometimes to well as I've lost bolts and nuts in the past.

 

[CJim7]

If it were me I 'd find a 1/2" piece of metal, cut it to fit in the frame, Mark it well, drill and tap it, install in the frame and bolt down the bracket, then weld it in place, cover the hole in the frame and weld that in place. After all is cool again remove the bolts and run a tap in to make sure the threads are good. I'm kind of in two minds on anti-seize. It works well for what it is made to do, sometimes to well as I've lost bolts and nuts in the past.

I like this idea....even if you don't weld the plate in, it will never spin

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Most of your 'sheet' plate like that, is 'hot-rolled' and pretty soft.
Just something to look out for.
LG

 

[Hedgehog]

You wouldn't need to put a serious weld on the steel, just enough to hold it in place ... I.E. when you've removed all the bolts you don't want the plate to move in the frame. Which would happen if the bots were removed and you hit the frame with a big hammer for instance.

Lumpy - I would definitely prefer cold rolled or even something forged like rail road or "I" beam steel. But, that is why I'd use a thick piece of metal, lots of thread VS not enough. It would be very unlikely that you'd strip the threads out before the bolt would twist off.

 

[Woolyworm]

Cut a piece of flat bar drill three holes in it the same spacing as the three holes in the frame run the three bolts down through those holes weld to the plate and stick the whole assembly in through the whole you've made in the frame and then put the nuts on the outside.


Wooly

 

[CJim7]

Turns out they were hex nuts...3/4" to be exact. All three broken loose from their welds.
I had to cut down pretty far on the frame to get a wrench on them, I have some serious patching to do on probably the most critical area of the entire frame....the part absorbing the steering torque.

Let the fun begin

 

[Neuner]

Should've just cut all of the bolts off and then when replacing the bracket and PS Box, weld it all together and to the frame, just like my PO did....

 

[CJim7]

Should've just cut all of the bolts off and then when replacing the bracket and PS Box, weld it all together and to the frame, just like my PO did....