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OX Axle U-Joints

OX Axle U-Joints

74 CJ5 Bill

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Tehachapi, Ca
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'74 CJ5 - original AMC 304, 33" crappy bias tires, original T-case and Trans.
The Dana 297x is for the Dana 44 front axle and the later post '91 D30s, and will work with the aftermarket Dana 30 axles as well, as I recall. Although the price for them is pretty good, I have seen the 297x hold up quite well, except for the guys with the larger v8s and plus 37" tires who drive them quite hard. They are about 1/16" larger diameter than the pre '91 Dana 30 oem axles.
 
Thats good to know. Im going to see if i can keep the Dana 30 front and 44 rear that i have on my 74' CJ and if i can, I will probably use these as a replacement. I was looking at what is in there now and if im not mistaken, Its still the original parts. Im going to try and build it with the best parts so that i dont have repairs every time i come off the trail. I will be running a V8 but only will only have 34" or so tires. Nothing to big.
 
I say don't waste your money on these high dollar U joints. They are good for buggies that put on 80 miles a year. They don't have needle bearings. That's how they can make the caps and posts thicker and stronger. But if you put on thousands of miles a year then you want the inexpensive spicer u joints with needle bearings. You want low wear. Very few people need such high strength.
There is a tradeoff between strength and longevity. If you get a larger U joint with needle bearings you can have it strong AND last longer. :D
To get a bigger U joint you need a yoke to match. A jeep CJ uses a 1310 Spicer U joint. The next step up is the 1330. It's bigger but still has the same sized cap.
If that's still not big enough for you go up to the 1350 Spicer. That's as big as the 1330 but has thicker crosses and caps.
:chug:

EDIT: I don't know the specs on the 297X U Joints Torxhead was talking about.
 
Last edited:
Are these front axle u joints or drive shaft u joints??:cool:
 
I believe he is talking axle joints.
My feeling is, without needle bearings you have to keep them greased
or they will burn up on you. I know a couple people with the ctm joints that are made the same way.
For me I like my Spicer, by going aftermarket axles you can get the bigger 297 or 760 joints in the 30. IMO they are strong enough.
Now if they are now making the Ox with needle bearings as the link said they were working on I might have to think on it.
 
I say don't waste your money on these high dollar U joints. They are good for buggies that put on 80 miles a year. They don't have needle bearings. That's how they can make the caps and posts thicker and stronger. But if you put on thousands of miles a year then you want the inexpensive spicer u joints with needle bearings. You want low wear. Very few people need such high strength.
There is a tradeoff between strength and longevity. If you get a larger U joint with needle bearings you can have it strong AND last longer. :D
To get a bigger U joint you need a yoke to match. A jeep CJ uses a 1310 Spicer U joint. The next step up is the 1330. It's bigger but still has the same sized cap.
If that's still not big enough for you go up to the 1350 Spicer. That's as big as the 1330 but has thicker crosses and caps.
:chug:

EDIT: I don't know the specs on the 297X U Joints Torxhead was talking about.

Starting to sound like these would be more of a waste of money and that i need to do more homework on Splicer. That is all good information to know.

Are these front axle u joints or drive shaft u joints??:cool:
I was going to use them for Front axle and find something good for the Drive shaft. Gotta build it right lol.

I believe he is talking axle joints.
My feeling is, without needle bearings you have to keep them greased
or they will burn up on you. I know a couple people with the ctm joints that are made the same way.
For me I like my Spicer, by going aftermarket axles you can get the bigger 297 or 760 joints in the 30. IMO they are strong enough.
Now if they are now making the Ox with needle bearings as the link said they were working on I might have to think on it.

It looks like me like the Splicer joints are the way here. I still need to see how the guts look on the axles. If they are bad or worn, I will be changing those out also. All information here is good for me. I have some learning to do.
 
...and find something good for the Drive shaft. Gotta build it right lol.

Think about this too (on the driveshaft u-joints) you want the "weakest link" in the easiest spot to repair...

If you were to get the extreme heavy duty u-joints for you drive-shaft(s), the weakest link will then be more like your ring and pinon or something else that is not $20-$30 fix, and available at almost any automotive dealer, AND right under there ready and waiting for you to change it :cool:

Now I know you're talking more for the front end steering knuckle u-joints, so maybe a little different advice there, but as for driveshafts, this is the advice I was given when I first wanted to "beef" everything up :D:D

:chug:
~ Jr
 
Think about this too (on the driveshaft u-joints) you want the "weakest link" in the easiest spot to repair...

If you were to get the extreme heavy duty u-joints for you drive-shaft(s), the weakest link will then be more like your ring and pinon or something else that is not $20-$30 fix, and available at almost any automotive dealer, AND right under there ready and waiting for you to change it :cool:

Now I know you're talking more for the front end steering knuckle u-joints, so maybe a little different advice there, but as for driveshafts, this is the advice I was given when I first wanted to "beef" everything up :D:D

:chug:
~ Jr

Very wise point you have there. I really didnt think of it that way. I will keep that in mind during the build.

Thank you all for the comments and advice on this. Its much appreciated.

Bill
 
The stock cj Dana 30 axles take a smaller (weaker) spicer 260 which is pretty easy to brake, If you have any doubts I would buy new axles that can take the bigger joint.
 

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