pitman arm

[CJ]

~~~ I apologize to all that this thread seems to have gotten out of control.

No apologizes necessary... This is a discussion forum... Hence, we discuss! This is a great thread.

 

[Purple77CJ7]

I'll throw my 2 cents in. I did the tie rod flip too, with a dropped pitman arm. I rereamed the pitman arm and put the drag link knuckle on top of pitman arm so it was parallel with the drag link. Dropped pitman arm a bit shorter than the stock flat arm, slowed my steering, which was a good thing.

 

[tarry99]

CJ
This question is in regards to a post you did last year regarding Pittman Arms and sterring angles. Putting a 78 Dana 30 front end under my old 65 CJ, this has the two hole TR spindle on the pass side and single hole on drivers side. Looking at using a larger Moog tie-rod end ES3096L which is M22 sized which came off a Cherroke V8 and 1-1/4" DOM tubing, my problem is that stacking those side by side on the top ( doing a flip) they would come in contact with each other. I would be using the redrill and tack in inserts to regain the taper on the top side. Question: if I move the position of both holes left & right for the tie rod back towards the spindle say .200 does that effect steering in any way?

 

[IOPort51]

I would say yes but that is why the rods and link are adjustable.

 

[tarry99]

IO Thanks for your responce, I'm sure the Jeep engineers did what they did for a reason, taking into account all the Ackerman steering theroies.
If these spindle arms and point of attachment for the TRE were exactly the same on both sides I would tend to disagree that there would not be a change.
But on these the attachment point are different which may lead me to think that a percentage of Ackerman might be built into this system. Not a big deal if you have access to a program to correct the angles.
I was just hoping that someone had run across this before.

 

[Old Dog]

I have to ask, why not use stock ends? They are not known to be a problem.

 

[IOPort51]

I see your point. Is it possible to move the drag out rather than the tie rod in??

 

[tarry99]

IO , I have been looking at that also which means that I may have to add a little meat to the end of that spindle for strenth.
Which brings me to the next question, when you move that out further I believe it slows the sterring down a little but also may kill the travel lock to lock. May not turn as sharp. Got to think about that.

 

[IOPort51]

some how I just don't see 3/16"+ causing that great a problem. I don't think the Pittman arm is any where close to parallel to the drag link when you are at max turn.

IO , I have been looking at that also which means that I may have to add a little meat to the end of that spindle for strenth.
Which brings me to the next question, when you move that out further I believe it slows the sterring down a little but also may kill the travel lock to lock. May not turn as sharp. Got to think about that.

 

[tarry99]

OD

Years ago I bent that tie rod several times in the old M-27 front end, just by coming in contact with whatever, so this time around I wanted to upgrade the Diameter & wall thickness of the tube, move it up and out of the way a little and in the same breath it would only seem natural to get a stronger TRE out there.
The one ton stuff is way to big, the nice thing about these 3096L is they use a larger shaft (M-22 is a little under 7/8")and still retain the stock Jeep taper and bolt size. Just looking for the best of both worlds. I can always leave the tie rod on the bottom and put the Drag link on the top and get where I want to go but it would be nice to have them both on top.

 

[tarry99]

IO,

You may be right , I'm right in the middle of changing that old Saginaw manual box that I installed years ago over to Power. Not a lot of room under there for anything. It has already been challanging to get that box into position so that the Pittman arm height and relationship to the tie rod are correct in reguards to bump steer & geometry along with getting the sector shaft aimed towards the steering column while missing the radiator , power steering pump and motor mounts. The good news is I'm ready to weld up the mounts.