pittman removal

[jeepboy45]

I got gearbox from Orielly's and have no complaints. I used a three arm puller from Autozones rental program ($79) to pull the arm. Just pressure and PB blaster. Tapped it on the side with a hammer and it popped off.

The hard part was the old bolts holding the gearbox on. Snapped the heads off all of them.

Did you have to drill them all out, or able to get a vice grip on the remaining bolt shaft?
AARG!!! I have the "self-lubrication" system installed. Keeps things from getting seized. It was that way since I got it from the PO in 1986... NO RUST UNDERNEATH FOR ME!! Its a simple installation of loosening random bolts and using old gaskets!! Sometimes OVER tightening of bolts is required to engage "self lubrication".. Just kidding.. Thankfully now I have no leaks anywhere!

 

[Duhwhat]

Did you have to drill them all out, or able to get a vice grip on the remaining bolt shaft?
AARG!!! I have the "self-lubrication" system installed. Keeps things from getting seized. It was that way since I got it from the PO in 1986... NO RUST UNDERNEATH FOR ME!! Its a simple installation of loosening random bolts and using old gaskets!! Sometimes OVER tightening of bolts is required to engage "self lubrication".. Just kidding.. Thankfully now I have no leaks anywhere!

I was able to get the broken bolt out of the bracket that goes through the piece between the front bumpers, but the three bolts through the frame would not give. Tried welding nuts to them and vice grips. Ended up hitting them with a small sledge hammer and broke the capture weld on the nuts inside the frame. Then I went and got some grade 5 serrated flange nuts and dropped them in the frame hole. The tightened down fine without being welded to the frame. I did have to grind a little off each side so they would go through the hole. I came together real nicely when I finished.

Flange nuts serrated - Bolt Depot

 

[jeepboy45]

so, how does it handle now?? have you driven it?

 

[cigarette1]

I am so happy to have read this thread before replacing my pitman arm with a dropped one.

I paid the man $100 (labor) to change mine and feel it was well worth the cost ... took it in and waited 1 1/2 hours ... drove home happy because the CJ7 handled 101% better. I can't see how some guys drive their lifted CJ's without some sort of correction to the angle of the steering rod to the tie bar ... felt dangerous. Yesterday, I drove 100 miles of mostly fwy at 65-70 mph and the CJ felt safe and comfortable to drive.

G

 

[jeepboy45]

I am so happy to have read this thread before replacing my pitman arm with a dropped one.

I paid the man $100 (labor) to change mine and feel it was well worth the cost ... took it in and waited 1 1/2 hours ... drove home happy because the CJ7 handled 101% better. I can't see how some guys drive their lifted CJ's without some sort of correction to the angle of the steering rod to the tie bar ... felt dangerous. Yesterday, I drove 100 miles of mostly fwy at 65-70 mph and the CJ felt safe and comfortable to drive.

G

Good to hear it is safe to drive! My pitman came off pretty easily, but I've read some HORROR stories. It is well worth the $100 if yours was gonna be one of those!

BTW: You should check into a "tie rod flip" sometime. There are several good threads on this site about it.

This is the one I followed recently... Its a good one.

http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f19/tie-rod-flip-10552/


I just did it a couple months ago. It allowed me to get rid of the drop pitman arm, and regain proper steering geometry. And from what I understand, takes away the stress from the PS gearbox that has been added by using a drop pitman...


BTW: welcome to the site

brian

 

[JR74CJ5]

Good to hear it is safe to drive! My pitman came off pretty easily, but I've read some HORROR stories. It is well worth the $100 if yours was gonna be one of those!

BTW: You should check into a "tie rod flip" sometime. There are several good threads on this site about it.

This is the one I followed recently... Its a good one.

http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f19/tie-rod-flip-10552/


I just did it a couple months ago. It allowed me to get rid of the drop pitman arm, and regain proper steering geometry. And from what I understand, takes away the stress from the PS gearbox that has been added by using a drop pitman...


BTW: welcome to the site

brian

I was thinking of that thread when I read "drop pitman arm" too.

 

[cigarette1]

Good to hear it is safe to drive! My pitman came off pretty easily, but I've read some HORROR stories. It is well worth the $100 if yours was gonna be one of those!

BTW: You should check into a "tie rod flip" sometime. There are several good threads on this site about it.

This is the one I followed recently... Its a good one.

http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f19/tie-rod-flip-10552/


I just did it a couple months ago. It allowed me to get rid of the drop pitman arm, and regain proper steering geometry. And from what I understand, takes away the stress from the PS gearbox that has been added by using a drop pitman...


BTW: welcome to the site

brian

I was thinking of that thread when I read "drop pitman arm" too.

Thanks for the welcome.

I did read the tie rod flip thread and agree 100% that it is the #1 option (how much would one expect to pay to have this done?). However, Limited by my budget and time (for now), I chose the #2 option.


I'm looking forward to taking it to the desert (after I confirm all drivetrain components are in order).

G

 

[Duhwhat]

so, how does it handle now?? have you driven it?

It drives great. I went for manual to power steering and this is heaven.

 

[jeepboy45]

Thanks for the welcome.

I did read the tie rod flip thread and agree 100% that it is the #1 option (how much would one expect to pay to have this done?). However, Limited by my budget and time (for now), I chose the #2 option.


I'm looking forward to taking it to the desert (after I confirm all drivetrain components are in order).

G

The kit cost me about $15 shipped. It consists of an insert that you tap into your steering knuckle. And also a nut that you are "supposed" to use on your tie rod end. The suggest spot welding the insert in the knuckle.

You need 3 kits to do everything.....drag link to knuckle, and 1 for each end of the tie rod ..totaling 3...

You have to buy a decent drill bit, I believe it is 3/4", about $18..

Thats it....Its simple to do. I did it with the knuckles still attached to my Jeep since I didnt feel like removing them. Drilling might have been easier if I removed the knuckles, put them in a vice and used a good drill press. I left them on the Jeep, and used a BIG 1/2" DRILL that I use to mix concrete with. It threw me around quite a bit while drilling, but went well overall. Start to finish (including jacking and supporting the Jeep) took me about 2 hours if I recall correctly.

good luck, its easy