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rear bumper and body mounts

rear bumper and body mounts
J

jerseyben

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I just pulled the horrible bumper and hitch that was on my 1980 CJ5 today in preparation of replacing the fuel tank. In doing so I discovered a few issues.

1: Look at this pic:
0811001803 - Jeep-CJ Gallery
The bumper mount is trashed. How big of a deal is this? Can I just have the cracks welded or should I have a new beefier bumper mount welded on?

2: Look at these pics:
0811001804 - Jeep-CJ Gallery
and
0811001804a - Jeep-CJ Gallery
You are looking at a rear body mount/3" lift block. As you can see it is just a metal tube 3" high that was welded to the frame at the stock mounting location. There is no bushing between the block and the fiberglass body. The result is what you see in the 2nd pic of the tub where it has cracked the fiberglass floor.
The front of the truck has 3" rubber lift mounts while the rear has these 3" metal tube blocks welded in. I noticed that it rides like pure :dung: and going over even a bumpy road is very harsh and resonates through the whole body. Now I can see why... What are my options here? Can I have the metal blocks grinded off the frame and replace with 3" rubber lift mounts. I'm not really sure what to do here.

Last:
I plan on installing this STYLE of rear bumper when it is ready to go back together:
http://www.quadratec.com/products/12029_300.htm

Can anyone recommend a bumper at a decent price of this style? Where to buy?
 
Those metal mounts cane be ground off, and I would go ahead and removed that body lift altogether. If you are dead set on keeping the body lift, then definitely doing it right, and but the correct mounts.
 
ground looks like you are finding out why the PO sold that Jeep
9 inches of lift, wow, what for? Mall crawling?
talk about top heavy and unstable.
Fist pic, that would be simple to fix, you need to either weld it over or fab a part to replace depending on how bad it is rusted besides the crack
now about the 3 inch body lift, not a good thing, get that body back to stock height, you do not need it to fir your tires, body lifts always cause trouble, and you are seeing some of what they cause. Go back to stock body height and it will fix the problems you have.
then we can address the ride With six inches lift in the suspension and seeing how the PO rigged the body lift so bad, I am sure the skimped on teh lift and we can straiten it out.
 
There are dozens of body mount kits available on Quadratec. Any particular brand or type to use?

They claim a 1" lift will not alter the way the ride handles from stock. Is this true? I wouldnt mind keeping a minor lift for visual purposes only.

If I do eliminate the 3" body life and return it to stock height, what will this affect? What, if anything will need to be altered or replaced? Shocks? Brake lines, etc?
 
Shocks have nothing to do with body lift
brakelines should be flexible going longer is an issue not shorter in most cases
linkages may be effected depending on if they had been changed before
was the raditaor ever moved?
from the looks of your pics, the PO did some really back yard engineering, and just fixed what he wanted to, I would think he ignored a lot if he used techniques like he did. Anything could be an issue.
 
as far as the viual side goes, back to the stock body height looks better. It will get rid of the gaps between the body and frame, and help keep your linkages working properly. If you are set on having 1, a 1 inch body lift would be where to stay at. No matter what you decide, those metal blocks still need to come off.
 
My main concern is that currently it is set up to handle the 3" lift. That means I could run into problems with my shifters/linkage if I downsized to 1".

Could anyone recommend a decent style of mounts (poly, rubber, etc) or even better yet a decent brand?
 
Daystar
and trust the guys here, no body lift
When you ask, and get an answer, why bother arguing?
 
Ok, I'll order the Daystar master bushing set. Thanks for the advice everyone.

I noticed that they make 2 kits: One is for 80-86 and the other is 76-79. Anyone know the differences between the 2 kits. I have a fiberglass body and I dont know if my frame is a 79 or 80 so Im not 100% sure which kit to order. Any easy way to tell?
 
I would call and ask, that way you know you are getting the right one. The easiest at to tell if you are going to have any issues, is to go ahead and remove the body lift, and then place your order. The trouble that you are going to run into dropping it back down is worth getting it correct. You will be happier with the ride.
 
It has come to my attention that a 1980 Jeep CJ5 should have a boxed frame. Mine does not but everything seems to match up to all of my obviously Jeep CJ parts including the entire drivetrain and springs. It makes sense now why none of the body mounts line up to the frame...

Is there a Jeep frame made that wasnt boxed that would fit a CJ drivetrain?

You can get an idea of what it looks like in my gallery pics here:
- Jeep-CJ Gallery
 
Lots of differences in the 75-older and 76-up frames. 75s are straight - same width the whole length. 76+ widen at the rear.

Spring width is 1.75" on 75-older. 76+ are wider.

Looks like a 76+ windshield frame.

Looks like a hydraulic clutch. Lots of good stuff, just needs some TLC.

Best way to tell how much total lift there is - measure the distance between the top of the rim to the bottom of the body between the wheels. Stock is below the rim, lots of lift is above. You are definitely well above.

Have fun!
 
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