Rebuilt 360 won't start keeps flooding out??

Rebuilt 360 won't start keeps flooding out??

cheftague

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west palm beach
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79 cj7 jeep renegade amc360. T150 trans Dana 20 and Dana 30
So I bought a rebuilt 360 with 0 miles installed it and now it won't stay running? I turn the fuel pump off and start it with starting fluid but as soon as I turn the fuel pump back on it dies?? Please help
 
Float stuck maybe. What kind of carb do you have?
 
Since you mention "Turn the fuel pump on" I assume it is an electric one. If the electric pump has excessive pressure it can overide the needle & seat in the carb easily creating a flooding condition. Otherwise the float level in the carb can be out of adjustment, or stuck as Old Dog mentioned.
 
Ok so he thinks he hooked up the vacuum to the gas output and the gas to the vacuum output so we changed em around and now waitin for the battery to charge a little. Let's hope that's it
 
I'm going to use royal purple synthetic does anyone know an oil filter that is top of the line for a 0 miles rebuilt amc 360?
 
I'm going to use royal purple synthetic does anyone know an oil filter that is top of the line for a 0 miles rebuilt amc 360?

I run the K&N Performance Gold filters, and have had good luck with them. And, I'm also running synthetic. However, the good old standby Fram filters work well too.
 
0 miles? Has this engine been broke in yet? If not, and even if the cam is broken in, I would run a high ZDDP oil.....a motor oil high in zinc for a few hundred miles then change out the oil and filter again.

These high zinc oils are expensive....usually about $8/qt, so after running the innitial break-in, I use regular motor oil with a ZDDP additive. Cuts the cost on a regular oil change and protects the valvetrain.
 
Two different shortblock builders have told me not to break in on Synthetic. Said just to use plain old conventional and switch over after 1000 or so.
 
Two different shortblock builders have told me not to break in on Synthetic. Said just to use plain old conventional and switch over after 1000 or so.

Correct...do not use synthetic. But you need to use a break-in oil that is high in zinc. Almost all conventional oils have had the zinc removed and are not a good choice by themselves to break in an AMC engine with flat tappet lifters.
 
Totally agree with the above 2 posts about break in oil NOT being synthetic..

Do some reading on breaking an engine in. There are two schools of thought.

1. slow and easy
2. newer thoughts suggest running it HARD, bringing up the RPM's and pulling your foot off the throttle to let the ENGINE brake your speed. It sets the rings far better than the old school method...

I always believed the first way, but the more I read, I now believe the second...

Here is just one good link...
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

Here is another one with a discussion of concerns:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/433541-problem-motoman-break-method.html
 
I read both of those links. The first one, the tutorial, doesnt even mention the cam and lifters...only about newer , better engine designs and finer crosshatch patterns on the cylinder walls. Newer engines use a different style cam and lifters than our AMC engines do (flat tappet) The engines are also designed to disapate heat much better.

The most important aspect to breaking in an AMC engine the way we do..with a constant RPM for a set time...is complete consideration for the cam and lifters. We know the rings will break in using this method and that is good enough.

A fast break-in with variable RPM as mentioned in that link may very well create better ring seating, but...

But to get on it hard and alter RPM's while innitially breaking in an AMC engine will destroy...I repeat...destroy a new cam and lifter set.

This is the touchiest aspect to breaking in our AMC engines: The cam and lifters. I just dont think I would try it on an AMC engine until I hear of somebody else doing it with favorable results.

Dont mean to sound negative...I just dont see either of those sites addressing the problems of cam break-in in older design engines.
 
Do NOT use any engine oil that has the 'Energy Saving' starburst emblem on the label. It is designed for the modern disposable engines with roller bearing valvetrains.

If you don't want to educate yourself on engine oils, just take the easy safe route and use 15w40 Diesel spec oil in any engine that has a Flat Tappet (non rolle) type cam and lifters.

Bruce
 

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