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Rebuilt rochester

Rebuilt rochester
Ok, tore it apart three times yesterday, first time to make sure the float was right.. It was a little low, reassembled, same issue, so 2nd time tried with holding the clip as well, moved it up another 1/8", reassembled, flooded like crazy. 3rd time, set float back down 1/8" where it was the first time, took out idle mixture screw cleaned and tightened back in, then backed it out 3 turns. Reassembled. Same original issue... Any ideas? Vacuum leak? Distributor?
 
Those carbs are a bit complicated. Do you have another carb you can try?
 
I don't have another one... But I did come across the rebuild instructions from when the previous owner rebuilt it. The one I have says float needs to be at 1/8". But the old one says 7/32...that's the next thing I think I'll try.
 
Cdub982 said:
If I was to look into another carburetor, what would be good for that iron Duke?
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I couldn't say because I'm no longer familiar with the bolt pattern. If your sure its the carb, maybe exchange the one you have for a re-man? Doubt it will be inexpensive tho.... :eek:
 
I'm out of ideas! I want this thing to run right, everything I've done hasn't changed a thing: adjusted the choke, adjusted the float several times, new vac lines, new fuel filter, checked the fuel pump, brand new cap and rotor, adjusted timing, new air filter, everything one at a time, and nothing changed... Don't know what to do anymore... I haven't tried a different carb, but that's pretty much it. I'm about ready to throw in the towel and rip out the iron Duke, and the tranny, and start this thing as my 327 swap project...
 
Had a friend come help... It seems that the choke isn't working correctly. The solenoid is holding it open... When he held the choke closed, it ran great. Thinking about converting it to a manual choke... Good idea?
 
Cdub982 said:
Had a friend come help... It seems that the choke isn't working correctly. The solenoid is holding it open... When he held the choke closed, it ran great. Thinking about converting it to a manual choke... Good idea?
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Closing the choke of course rich-ens it up. You might hold the choke and let off ( open it ) of it a little at a time to ensure the engine runs correctly until engine gets warm, and choke is all the way off. This should prove that the choke is the only issue. Also, the choke should have an electric t-stat that operates it, not a solenoid. :chug:
 
Haven't checked yet, kinda stupid really, but what if my t-stat coil is backward... Wouldn't that make it open right off the bat instead of closing?
 
Ok, I pulled the hose from the vacuum diaphragm unit? Anyway, it would at least hold its idle with it disconnected. What is the purpose of it anyway?
 
Cdub982 said:
Ok, I pulled the hose from the vacuum diaphragm unit? Anyway, it would at least hold its idle with it disconnected. What is the purpose of it anyway?
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Yes, if the t-stat coil was installed backwards, it would tension the choke in the wrong direction. The diaphragm that you disconnected should be the choke pull off. When the engine is cold, and choke is working correctly, the "pull off" sets the choke plate to a predetermined gap between the plate and air horn. The choke plate is not supposed to be fully closed. Well, it is fully closed until you turn the engine over and create vacuum, then the "pull off"....via vacuum, opens the plate to approx 1/8" ( that's a guess ). The correct gap and how to set it is in your rebuild instructions. Also, the vacuum signal to the pull off should be full manifold vacuum at all times...not delayed. Hope this helps. If you need more answers, post them and I will answer as best I can. Rick:chug:
 
A friend suggested converting it to a manual choke. I guess more for the driver to take care of, but less parts to malfunction. Good idea?
 
Cdub982 said:
A friend suggested converting it to a manual choke. I guess more for the driver to take care of, but less parts to malfunction. Good idea?
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I guess that's a good idea if that is what ya want. I would rather have a good functioning auto choke myself. All the choke adjustments are in the rebuild directions. The gaps/angles may be indicated in degrees and seem difficult but those angles can be converted to decimal, then various sizes of drill bits can be used to measure/make adjustments.:chug:
 
Fastatv said:
I guess that's a good idea if that is what ya want. I would rather have a good functioning auto choke myself. All the choke adjustments are in the rebuild directions. The gaps/angles may be indicated in degrees and seem difficult but those angles can be converted to decimal, then various sizes of drill bits can be used to measure/make adjustments.:chug:
Click to expand...
I'll look into that for sure, it sounds less difficult with the drill bits.
 
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