Removing the AMP guage for a volt guage

Removing the AMP guage for a volt guage

SmokeEater

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Kennard, NE
Vehicle(s)
74 Cj5 304, D20 transfer case T-15 (i think) D44 rear, d30 front. Pretty much stock.
I know that this has probably been covered, but im getting ready to pull my dash and was going to replace both the guages with autometer replacements (amp and oil pressure). But from prior experience (read repairing old dodge trucks) ive found that the amp meter is often a stranglepoint for power and causes heat. I still have the motorola alternator (got one for my birthday). But i figure if i take the large gauge yellow wire off the alt, and put that to the solenoid, replace the amp gauge with a volt gauge, and would just need to run a large wire for the main power... i think. i know there isnt as much of a rats nest as im used to, but it should be pretty straight forward right?

im sure someone out there has done this, just dont want to start cutting until i know for sure. just trying to clean up the underhood, and underdash wiring.
 
You can't use the wiring from the amp gauge to wire your volt gauge. But wireing a volt gauge is easy. Just need a positive line to the volt gauge.
 
ive put in a few volt guages. i know theyre pretty easy. just need undo the amp wiring, dont know what can all be taken out and crossed over and such
 
ok so here is what im seeing. with the dash off everything is much more accessable haha. luckily enough the PO hadnt snipped, clipped, and taped much of anything. i did find that both of my gauges in the speedo tested out good, but the speedo itself is a goner.

anyway, back on topic. there are two large guage wires that led to the amp guage, yellow comes in off the alt, and red goes out to the distribution and to the stud on the solenoid to charge. thats one big positive loop with lots of resistance prior to getting to the battery to charge. im thinking of pulling out the yellow wire, replacing it with a large (8 or so) guage wire direct off the alt to the solenoid to charge. that red wire will still get direct power and full power from the terminal on the solenoid. ill get my amazing paint skills out after work to illustrate my plans. BUT the question is in theory will it work? the amp gauge is getting replaced with a volt guage from autometer, the oil pressure guage will be an autometer guage with electronic sender. just going to replace the speedometer part of the cluster and replace all the bulbs.

i think the shorter run, with bigger wire, will help keep the battery charged and reduce my risk of fire.
 
there are two large guage wires that led to the amp guage, yellow comes in off the alt, and red goes out to the distribution and to the stud on the solenoid to charge. thats one big positive loop with lots of resistance prior to getting to the battery to charge.

I don't think that wire loop is to charge the battery. I think it's just for the amp gauge.
Do you have a wiring diagram?
 
I have a few that I'm referencing that i found in the Web. That and knowing that for an amp gauge to work all the power has to be routed through the gauge has me thinking the loop is the way it works.

But i could be wrong, happens all the time.

the one closest representing my wiring is the one on vatozone's website. the yellow wire basically goes right off the alt, in to the amp guage, then out to the post on the solenoid. it looks like it will NOT affect anything if i just bypass the amp gauge by force, re-route the large wire off the output post direct to the noid, and just drop a voltmeter in it.
 
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