Replacement Brake Line Set

Replacement Brake Line Set
I called them this morning and the guy I talked to was very nice and apologized for the problem. He asked me to send him the picture and my invoice via email and I did. I guess time will tell if they respond. I'm not in a rush anyway...:chug:
 
Hope they take care of you.


Sent from my probably outdated electronic device, more than likely tracked by our government.
 
400.00 for replacement lines? did I read that correctly, I'm in the middle of doing my own fuel and brake lines and in my opinion making it simple and clean... and so far, only 40.00 bucks into it.

IMAG0233_zps6e785d30.jpg

pardon the mess, had a storm blow all sorts of leaves in the carport.. :mad:
 
Yes, $400.00....

I will make my own fuel lines, but I will gladly fork over my money for brake lines. Not an area I will take chances on.

Nice work you have done there. Keep it up!:chug:
 
I hear ya buddy and thanks, thats the fuel and rear brake line ran down the frame. Once you know how to use the flare tool and flare the line correctly, nothing to it. Im also going to make a heat shield where the new lines will run up front by the engine and by the mufflers to give them just a little more protection. I just have 1 more to run the front passenger side line and I'll be done and can start swapping the body onto the new chassis.
 
I hear ya buddy and thanks, thats the fuel and rear brake line ran down the frame. Once you know how to use the flare tool and flare the line correctly, nothing to it. Im also going to make a heat shield where the new lines will run up front by the engine and by the mufflers to give them just a little more protection. I just have 1 more to run the front passenger side line and I'll be done and can start swapping the body onto the new chassis.
Just to be sure - brake lines need 45 deg double flare.
 
and go ahead and spend the bucks on the double flair tool, a cheep one will not make it happen for you.:cool:
 
A flare tool is not something to go with the cheapest one on. Nothing like having to re-flare a leaking like under the thing with hard lines. Pita.


Sent from my probably outdated electronic device, more than likely tracked by our government.
 
Inline tube called me back this morning. Guy told me that the CJ5 frame was extended in the 1980 model year.:confused:

I filled him in on more information than he possibly knew about CJ models and years the changes were made, (Thanks Pete for the posts on models and specs!) and he said he would get with his "tech" guy and call me back.

He did inform me that they would replace the tube made for the "extended" CJ5 . I just needed to either send them the one that is too long back and they would replace, or I could just buy the one of the correct length and then get a credit for the incorrect one.

I think I will take the position of acting like an *** when he calls back. I just wanted to give an update on the "customer service" of Inline Tube.
 
The third try on this line came in today. The salesman at Inline tube was very appologetic the second time I called him with this issue and said he would go pull the part himself and get it in the box.

This one actually looks like it will fit. I didn't get home till a 13 hour day was done today, so it went back in the box and I will try it on if time allows tomorrow.

Again, the two subsequent shippings and parts were free of charge and I was told to keep, sell, or give away the incorrect parts. See Classified section for the offer and picture if you are in need of a line too long for a 1980 CJ5 ; I now have two identical to what is in the picture!:D
 
Found making your own works out fine, might take a little longer, just have to have the right tools for the job.
 
Found making your own works out fine, might take a little longer, just have to have the right tools for the job.

I'm sure it would have...

Put this line on yesterday. Still 3" too long. Bent it around and made it work. Time will tell I reckon.:chug:
 
Found making your own works out fine, might take a little longer, just have to have the right tools for the job.

:)I agree.............I do them out of stainless all the time........once you get use to the tube benders on the inside and out side radius and the double flare tool and inserts your good to go.........One thing I like to buy from the aftermarket suppliers is the wire wound protector to go around bends where it may rub against something..........makes your DYI line job look Professional!

:D:D:D:D
 
may I ask what vendor you are getting the protector from??

Next question, has anybody found a way to make a neat coil for vibration ?? two or three loop?:cool:


:)I agree.............I do them out of stainless all the time........once you get use to the tube benders on the inside and out side radius and the double flare tool and inserts your good to go.........One thing I like to buy from the aftermarket suppliers is the wire wound protector to go around bends where it may rub against something..........makes your DYI line job look Professional!

:D:D:D:D
 
The coiled tubing is a lot easier to work with than the straight sticks.:D
this was not nearly the problem I thought it would be, decent looking coils.:cool:


 
may I ask what vendor you are getting the protector from??

Next question, has anybody found a way to make a neat coil for vibration ?? two or three loop?:cool:

:)IO..........I'll have to look...........one of those guys like Inline or Classic tube. Seems like I even got some from NAPA a while back...........some say the wire wrap allows corrosion to build on Steel Lines.........thats why I use Stainless and buy it in 12 ft lengths.

:D:D:D:D
 
Again, the two subsequent shippings and parts were free of charge and I was told to keep, sell, or give away the incorrect parts. See Classified section for the offer and picture if you are in need of a line too long for a 1980 CJ5 ; I now have two identical to what is in the picture!:D


I may be in the market for the other line. I'm over near Ft.Worth.

Not to hijack, but beside maybe rust/corrosion what other problems will warrant me to change out my 1980 factory lines...besides the fear of having to fred flinstone it?
 
Not to hijack, but beside maybe rust/corrosion what other problems will warrant me to change out my 1980 factory lines...besides the fear of having to fred flinstone it?

When I was taking my lines apart to change out the original rubber flex lines, they broke. All of them broke where the went to the rubber lines. This was after soaking in penetrating oil daily for a week. Pretty easy to tell when they are rotten on that end.

Not an area I choose to chance it on anyway. Turn signals are optional, brakes aren't!!:chug:
 
What are y'all doing for the proporting valve?
I'm putting the a power booster on, but think they're the same. But if I'm replacing everything else, why no the valve too?


All the rubber brake lines on mine are new from the PO.
 
What are y'all doing for the proporting valve?
I'm putting the a power booster on, but think they're the same. But if I'm replacing everything else, why no the valve too?


All the rubber brake lines on mine are new from the PO.

Prop Valve came new with the rest of it from Inline Tube.
 

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