Steering Rolling the dice

[DAHoyle]

Well, I am tired of dealing with not having any feel at the steering wheel, and ABSOLUTELY no return to center. The thing tracks as straight as an arrow as long as I don't do anything, and I mean anything, to alter the steering input. If I sneeze or even scratch my nose, I am liable to end up over the centerline or in the ditch. The steering box is tight, toe is as close to perfect as I can get it with a tape measure, and there is no slop in any of the steering linkage. As I said, it will go exactly where I point it. The problem is that it takes about 90 percent of my attention to keep it where I want it, and the slightest pressure on the steering wheel is enough to create a steering input. Initially, I thought the issue might be just overboosting in the power steering, but that doesn't really explain why it doesn't return to center. I have to consciously steer out of every corner and curve.

I may be wrong, and to be honest, I haven't even checked what it is set at, but I have decided to add 4 degrees of caster to it and see what that does. Worst case is it does nothing, and I have an extra set of degree shims laying around the shop. I considered taking it to have the caster checked at an alignment shop, but the more I thought about it, the more I realized that it doesn't really matter what that might tell me, it still wouldn't make the damn thing return to center. It is a case of "I want what works, not what is written in the spec sheet" It should be somewhere near the factory specified setting, because the suspension is bone stock, but who knows. Maybe after I get it sorted out I will take it to a shop just to find out what settings actually worked, for futures posterity.

Any ways, will post the results when I get everything buttoned back up.

 

[hole]

After lifting mine I had a similar issue and put a couple degrees to it and its pretty good. Probably not perfect, but the unpredictable steering went away, so I was happy. Still dont know where its acually at, those guys at the alignment place actually want money to tell me the exact number.

 

[boney]

What you're describing sounds like a castor issue. There could also be negative input from your steering stabilizer if you have a stiff one. As in, it's resistance is greater than that of the castor's effect on your wheels.

I seem to recall that Castor is supposed to be somewhere around 5 to 7 degrees. You may have zero. Two ways to do this:
1. Put some shims in and see if it's "better." Guess at what's right, and maybe then do it again.
2. Have it put on a rack and see what the castor is, then correct it to factory specs.

If I were having the problem you are, I would go with step 2. Gather all the data, and fix it once. Aim for 7 degrees. More castor is more self correcting to center. It will also follow better if you flat tow it.

Mine was jumpy when I got it. Then I put a lift kit in it that came with "correct" shims. They're good but not great- and I have no idea what the castor actually is. Thanks for reminding me that I should put it on a rack and get it sorted properly- it's only been about 8 years....

 

[Belizean]

Yeah after 41 years I need to get mine checked to see what it really is after decades of a lift with the shims it came with in the kit. Probably fairly close but I would like to know

 

[jzak]

 

[CJC]

If the torque on the ball joints is too high, your steering won't return to center. Maybe lift the front end and see how hard the wheel is to turn L/R, if its really tight it could be the ball joints

 

[boney]

While we are at it. Wider rims, even with the right offset, will create extra drag outside of the standard (engineered) pivot point of your steering. It's why we have to cut fenders and such when our tires get too wide. All that extra material swings around the pivot instead of rotating on it.

 

[DAHoyle]

I have been chasing this for awhile, as I have been bringing this CJ back to life, and have already ruled out just about all of what you have suggested. It wasn't in bad shape, but it had been sitting up a long time when I got it, so I started out checking all the tie rod ends, ball joints, and cleaning/repacking the wheel bearings, setting the preload as per factory manual. I have made a lot of progress, and have most of it sorted out. It has the HD springs in it, which are way too harsh, so I am pulling the shortest leaf to make it a little more compliant. Got the front end done today, and installed the 4 degree shims. Definitely made an improvement, and it isn't near as flighty as it was, but won't quite return to center. Took it out on the interstate and ran it up to 75, which is about 5 over what I am comfortable with, and it was very stable. Once I get the rear spring packs sorted out, I should have between a half and one degree more caster, so that should help.

Wheels are stock wagon wheels, and tires are OEM size, 235/75R15, so they shouldn't be contributing to the problem. Toe is about 3/16". Running 24 PSI in the tires, as that worked best with previous settings, but may try adjusting up or down to see if there is any improvement.

 

[hole]

Sounds like you are headed in the right direction.

 

[DAHoyle]

Well, Spent the afternoon pulling the short leaf from the rear springs. While I can't say it rides like a Caddy, it is a significantly more supple, and really didn't loose much arch. Haven't measured yet, but I suspect I gave up about an inch and it should be sitting at factory height, or very close to it. It actually had OEM springs under it, but they were the 4150 GVW, 6 leaf springs, and they added about an inch of lift, and rode like a buckboard. Removing the leaf had the expected, and un-welcome effect of increasing body roll, but I expected that.

All things considered, I wouldn't have bothered removing the bottom leaves if I wasn't already tearing things down to install the caster shims, but I am glad I did it. Didn't get around to it today, But I will probably remove the steering stabilizer and see if I can tell the difference.