1979 Jeep CJ7 TH400 Automatic 258 I6 Quadratrac Amc 20 rear & Dana 30 front, 32 x 11.5 x 15 tires. Currently a Complete Custom Rebuild in progress.
Also I own a 2001 Jeep Cherokee, White, all stock with 4.0L. automatic, and police package. Best part of that is it came with leather seats! This package also has the NP242 Transfer Case, 8.25 rear end, and trailer towing package.
<div class="bbWrapper">It's more about the prep than the paint. Rustoleum is one of the cheaper and readily avaiable products on the market. I used Eastwoods rust encapsulator and POR15 chassis black. There are other products as well. None will totally prevent rust, but some are better than others. I think you get what you pay for here (IMHO). But prep is everything! Rod</div>
<div class="bbWrapper">What are you painting? The answer depends on what it is. For a lawn chair that sits in your garage most of the time...its just okay. On a car...meh.<br />
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Prep is very important, but at the same time, it won't turn rattle can Rustoleum into PPG.</div>
<div class="bbWrapper">any aerosol paint is going to be super thin,even with several coats..as stated above,I don't think much of aerosol when it comes to vehicles...as far as for wheels,probably not a big deal..go for it</div>
<div class="bbWrapper">I would not do body work with Rustoleum but just about anything else.<img src="/community/smilies/biggrin.gif" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":D" title="Grin :D" data-shortname=":D" /> I spray it from a gun and thin it with acetone. It is easy to match on things like bumpers so touch up is a snap, if you are so inclined.<img src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f60e.png" class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" width="64" height="64" alt=":cool:" title="Cool :cool:" data-smilie="6"data-shortname=":cool:" /></div>