Should I install these or not?

[Cornfed]

The Jeep came with a bucket of parts - the front end on this Jeep follows every groove in the road - it used to bounce like the Easter Bunny on Easter Sunday till sage advice given here said - Ford Shock Mounts!

I have some pictures - of old installed parts and the replacement parts - I am just not convinced they are going to change things in steering - I have about two turns on the steering wheel lock to lock with the power steering. A bit squirrely...

The pitman arm is a whole interesting weld monstrosity - but beefy - (note to self picture)

Thanks for taking a minute to look -

 

[Old Dog]

What is going on, on the pass. side, it looks like both the tie rod and drag link are going to the same hole.

 

[Wrangled13]

I agree with old dog. After a second look it still seems that way....


Sent from my probably outdated electronic device, more than likely tracked by our government.

 

[Cornfed]

What is going on, on the pass. side, it looks like both the tie rod and drag link are going to the same hole.

I agree with old dog. After a second look it still seems that way....


Sent from my probably outdated electronic device, more than likely tracked by our government.

They are in close proximity but not the same hole - about three inches separates the two / one on top of the other - I am just wondering about the material difference ? between the old tie rod and drag link and the new stuff - only big difference is the funky weld on the drag link and the "dip" on the tie rod _ ?

Oh and the last picture is for Old Dog to help clarify the question from the other day - they go all the way upfront tied in to the frame...

 

[csuengr]

It's a scout Dana 44 , or at least the knuckles. That welded pitman arm, not drag link, should be replaced.

 

[Cornfed]

It's a scout Dana 44 , or at least the knuckles. That welded pitman arm, not drag link, should be replaced.

I agree - that welded pitman is gnarly! and thanks for spotting the Scout Dana 44 - always wondered what those were from...

 

[Old Dog]

That scout 44 might be your problem, they came with 0 caster, if no one ever cut and turned the C's that would cause your wandering.
And yes I'd change that welded up mess you have.

 

[Cornfed]

That scout 44 might be your problem, they came with 0 caster, if no one ever cut and turned the C's that would cause your wandering.
And yes I'd change that welded up mess you have.

Thanks Old Dog - I have been banging my head trying to figure out how/why the wandering...just could not see how to correct it!

 

[1986cj7]

Here is a thread by Kane that should be of help to you.
http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f99/scout-dana-44-prep-cj-pics-17072/

 

[Cornfed]

Here is a thread by Kane that should be of help to you.
http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f99/scout-dana-44-prep-cj-pics-17072/

Here is the final install - looks way cleaner -

Thanks for the thread - I will be studying it!

 

[PaRenegade]

I've read that heim joints are illegal in some places in lieu of tie rod ends. And those heims looked shot too, no boots left to contain grease.

 

[Cornfed]

I've read that heim joints are illegal in some places in lieu of tie rod ends. And those heims looked shot too, no boots left to contain grease.

I need to check on that - I live on the Crow Reservation and the 19 square mile ranch is where this beast pretty much resides...but thank you - there is no place for grease on these joints - ?

 

[Old Dog]

And those heims looked shot too, no boots left to contain grease.

Maybe it's just me but I've never seen heims with grease boots.

 

[PaRenegade]

Maybe it's just me but I've never seen heims with grease boots.

Maybe they don't, I have no experience with them. But if you look at pic #4 in the first post it looks like there are remnants of something rubber there. Like it was rotted and tore away.

 

[tarry99]

Here is the final install - looks way cleaner -

Thanks for the thread - I will be studying it!

Hi Jeff...........that steering looks pretty rough.......As others have mentioned get that Pittman Arm off of there.......call Mikes Parts in Newcastle, California he has a bunch of offset arms.....( you will have to know the TRE joint size or type and also the size / type of steering gear.)
I would agree with others that it seems like you have no steering castor , meaning how much angle to your spindles or large "C" lean back? should be about 5-6 degrees..........that can be corrected by various methods with the easiest method being using steel angled wedges welded in between the spring and axle housing with will roll the axle back..........of course one should watch the U-joint angle to the Transfer Case also.
The Heim joints and that tie rod are really Junk.........the joints look like Home Depot specials and the diameter of the tube also looks very small...........most of us run a one-ton Tie Rod ends that have a 7/8" thread and use a tube size like 1.250-1.375 OD with a .375 wall..........either threaded or welded threaded bungs installed..............another conversation with the folks at Mikes part's as they build that stuff in house.

Everything you are looking at from the Tie rod ends to the Tie rod to the castor all has to work together in concert to have a good steering system.

 

[Cornfed]

Hi Jeff...........that steering looks pretty rough.......As others have mentioned get that Pittman Arm off of there.......call Mikes Parts in Newcastle, California he has a bunch of offset arms.....( you will have to know the TRE joint size or type and also the size / type of steering gear.)
I would agree with others that it seems like you have no steering castor , meaning how much angle to your spindles or large "C" lean back? should be about 5-6 degrees..........that can be corrected by various methods with the easiest method being using steel angled wedges welded in between the spring and axle housing with will roll the axle back..........of course one should watch the U-joint angle to the Transfer Case also.
The Heim joints and that tie rod are really Junk.........the joints look like Home Depot specials and the diameter of the tube also looks very small...........most of us run a one-ton Tie Rod ends that have a 7/8" thread and use a tube size like 1.250-1.375 OD with a .375 wall..........either threaded or welded threaded bungs installed..............another conversation with the folks at Mikes part's as they build that stuff in house.

Everything you are looking at from the Tie rod ends to the Tie rod to the castor all has to work together in concert to have a good steering system.

Thanks - I mean really thanks -

I put the stuff on and the the front end is fine - but it seems like cheese! I appreciate the reference to Mike's because he set me up with Ford shock mounts -

The "C" set back has been done with steel angled wedges -

 

[tarry99]

Thanks - I mean really thanks -

I put the stuff on and the the front end is fine - but it seems like cheese! I appreciate the reference to Mike's because he set me up with Ford shock mounts -

The "C" set back has been done with steel angled wedges -

So that partially fixed the problem re-adjusting the Castor that is?...........If you still have those cheapy Heim Joints on there and that welded Pittman arm you should really consider fixing that stuff also.........like I said fixing one thing is just one part of the complete system.............once it is done correctly you'll notice a huge difference.

 

[csuengr]

The reason people went to using Heims, aka spherical rod ends, aka ball joint rod ends, is because while they can be stronger, they are also much easier to use for custom steering. The down side is not being street legal and having a shorter service life.

 

[Cornfed]

Hi Jeff...........that steering looks pretty rough.......As others have mentioned get that Pittman Arm off of there.......call Mikes Parts in Newcastle, California he has a bunch of offset arms.....( you will have to know the TRE joint size or type and also the size / type of steering gear.)
I would agree with others that it seems like you have no steering castor , meaning how much angle to your spindles or large "C" lean back? should be about 5-6 degrees..........that can be corrected by various methods with the easiest method being using steel angled wedges welded in between the spring and axle housing with will roll the axle back..........of course one should watch the U-joint angle to the Transfer Case also.
The Heim joints and that tie rod are really Junk.........the joints look like Home Depot specials and the diameter of the tube also looks very small...........most of us run a one-ton Tie Rod ends that have a 7/8" thread and use a tube size like 1.250-1.375 OD with a .375 wall..........either threaded or welded threaded bungs installed..............another conversation with the folks at Mikes part's as they build that stuff in house.

Everything you are looking at from the Tie rod ends to the Tie rod to the castor all has to work together in concert to have a good steering system.

Okay - found an old receipt - it says / SRC Precision Products Steering Rods? I am assuming that the Tie rod / Drag Link and 1.12 diameter - ? I looked at Mikes is about $259 for custom work - so I think I will be safe and go that way -

 

[Cornfed]

The reason people went to using Heims, aka spherical rod ends, aka ball joint rod ends, is because while they can be stronger, they are also much easier to use for custom steering. The down side is not being street legal and having a shorter service life.

The front end is way stiffer and better handling now - the Heims don't seem bad and the whole thing was built by - SRC Precision Products Steering Rods