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Something Just Broke

Something Just Broke

Focker

Jeeper
Posts
49
Thanks
0
Location
Eastern Wa
Vehicle(s)
'71 CJ5 - 225 V6 - 2Jet - T14 - D18 - Saginaw Pwr Steering - D27 w/10" Brakes - D44 Tapered Axles w/9" Brakes - 4:88's - 33's - Custom Tube Fenders - Full Cage
My son and I we're heading home from lunch and I thought it would be fun to let him drive. I pulled over and he took control. He had trouble with the whole clutch, brake & gas combo, after his 3rd stall he gunned it! CLUNK...Stall...We both looked at each other and I said something broke. I got out and told him to try again. What I could see was a spinning rear drive line with no forward momentum. I drove the 1/2 mile home in 4 Hi. The best I can tell is something in the rear 44 failed.

I'm going to open it up but in the meantime I was hoping for some feedback. He feels awful but I think it's funny...Heck, it's 42 years old, I'm just glad we made it to lunch first!
 
It sounds like you broke an axle. I did the same thing in a 49 ford truck.
 
If that is all it took it is time it got replaced!:eek:
 
You have the two piece axles in the housing? It'd be nice if you just had to upgrade to one piece units!
 
The Dana 44 's had two piece axles? I thought it was just the Corporate 20's :confused:
 
The Dana 44 's had two piece axles? I thought it was just the Corporate 20's :confused:

Shouldn't be the problem with Fockers 71 but Early Dana 44s from the 50s had 2 piece axles.
 
I know that '69, CJ5 , Dana 44 's had two piece axles as well. I agree with Peter though, '71's shouldn't be a problem.
 
Swapping Axle is not too bad - Pressing on new bearings and stupid retainer thing is the hardest part...

Let me know if you have any questions, I've done a few :D

Summit (or others) have a real good Chrome molly alloy USA axle for the Dana 44 's

The worst case is one of the gears (spider or R&P) but I would assume you would have heard a lot of mumbo jumbo going on in there on the way home.

With a broken axle, you may have also...

Hard to say until you get her all opened up...

Good luck buddy :chug: And good for you on keeping positive with the boy :beer:
 
Thanks guys.

I've had no luck trying to remove the hub. I went and rented a 7 ton 3 Jaw puller this morning. I've heated it, beat it, rattled it with my air gun and finally...Cussed at it (I was certain that would have worked if nothing else).

20140821_234643_zps01272fce.webp

20140821_234614_zps5fd0b232.webp
 
You shouldn't have to remove the flange from the axle shaft. Behind the flange there's 4 or 5 nuts holding the retainer/seal plate on. Take those off and the axle should come out. You might have to persuade it a little.
And by the way. Cussing at it does help.:censored:
 
You shouldn't have to remove the flange from the axle shaft. Behind the flange there's 4 or 5 nuts holding the retainer/seal plate on. Take those off and the axle should come out. You might have to persuade it a little.
And by the way. Cussing at it does help.:censored:

As he said, there are 6 nuts holding the axle in. there should be a hole in the axle flange. Spin the axle until you can access a nut, remove and repeat. once all done, you can grab hold and pull hard with jolts to remove it. The bearing will come out with it.

See here:(hopefully doesnt look like this lol)

IMG_0281_zps4693122e.webp

Here's a video of me removing my broken axle not long ago - to show the hole etc

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:chug:
 
Thanks guys.

I've had no luck trying to remove the hub. I went and rented a 7 ton 3 Jaw puller this morning. I've heated it, beat it, rattled it with my air gun and finally...Cussed at it (I was certain that would have worked if nothing else).

20140821_234643_zps01272fce.webp

20140821_234614_zps5fd0b232.webp
FYI focker You have the WRONG puller. that is why the hub won't come off.And it would be a lot easier to work on your rig with it removed.BTW that is not a '71 rear axle assembly. Good luck. :D mike
 
You have a 44 not a 20 rear-You should have 1 piece axles.
Wrong puller/wrong application--
LG
 
Thanks for the feedback everyone. I know I have the wrong axles for the year and the wrong puller. I have a 44 not a 20...Not sure where that came from? I was just hoping I could work with what I had available.

I knew this when I bought the jeep:
The seller got it in trade for some work he did for a neighbor who used it on their farm.

I called the seller today...He's super cool but he's 80 mile away. He has the correct puller and extra axles for each side of the differential. He said I can borrow the puller and have the parts I need for free. If I trailer the jeep to him he'll help me do the repair. He said it was probably swapped for one reason or another or "Jeep has been known to do some crazy :dung:." He believes the T case and tranny are stock but I'm going to try and confirm that.

I decided to order a used puller from Amazon for $70 shipped, It'll be here Monday. I figured since the guy I bought the Jeep from is giving me free axles, I could afford the puller. I'll be passing through his neck of the woods in a couple of weeks (going to watch the Seahawks and Greenbay) and will pick up what I need.
 
But but but, you don't really need a puller at all. Remove the 6 nuts through the hole in your axle flange nd the axle will come right out of the tube. The flange you seem to be trying to remove is PART of the axle, it doesn't come off the shaft at all. Remove the nuts, put the brake drum on backwards thread a few lug nuts on the studs, only about 1/2" and use the drum like a slide hammer on the lug nuts and the axle will or should pop right off.
 
But but but, you don't really need a puller at all. Remove the 6 nuts through the hole in your axle flange nd the axle will come right out of the tube. The flange you seem to be trying to remove is PART of the axle, it doesn't come off the shaft at all. Remove the nuts, put the brake drum on backwards thread a few lug nuts on the studs, only about 1/2" and use the drum like a slide hammer on the lug nuts and the axle will or should pop right off.
Hedge, if you notice in the pic he posted the nut on the end of the axle shaft is a tapered two piece Dana 44 with tapered hub.While you could technically remove it as one piece that is not the normal operation..As I recall that hub does'nt have a access hole for disassembly.There are seals,axle shims,brake backing plate, etc.I have had many of these apart for service(i own two jeeps with this axle).Getting the right puller will make all the difference.You fellows with the later flanged axles have it made.And no you can't just buy flanged axles and install them.As was mentioned on the other forum that has been dealing with him on this repair a full floater axle conversion is available but seems a bit extreme for most of us.:D mike
 
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This would be the correct puller to use:

OldForge2519.webp
 
Yes, I was looking very closely at the picture and saw the threaded section but was unsure if it was part of the axle or the puller. I am wondering why the puller he has can't do the job. Is it 3 feet rather than 4? Is the thread pitch different giving greater power? Just wondering.
 
You shouldn't have to remove the flange from the axle shaft. Behind the flange there's 4 or 5 nuts holding the retainer/seal plate on. Take those off and the axle should come out. You might have to persuade it a little.
And by the way. Cussing at it does help.:censored:

X2!
 
CJ jeeps;

Spicer 41 's are one piece axles
Dana 44 's offset behind Spicer 18 's until 1971 are 2 piece..
Dana 44 's from 1972-1975 are one piece centered with Dana 20 t-cases..
AMC20 from 1976-1985plus are 2 piece..
1986 Dana 44 are one piece..
1987 up Dana 35's are C clip
and on and on..
 

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