spring selection for fullwidth axles

spring selection for fullwidth axles

CJ5Whit

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Syracuse,Indiana
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1976 cj5 amc360 3spd currently 8inches of lift with 35s but will be changing
i recently bought fullwidth chevy axles to put under my CJ5 and was planning on using xj leafs on the rear to stretch it, but was wondering if it is possible to use xj leafs on front or if anybody has tried? Would it give me more wheel base like the rear is it even possible to do this? I know would mainly be spring mount location but just looking for some tips, ideas and suggestions!
 
i recently bought fullwidth chevy axles to put under my CJ5 and was planning on using xj leafs on the rear to stretch it, but was wondering if it is possible to use xj leafs on front or if anybody has tried? Would it give me more wheel base like the rear is it even possible to do this? I know would mainly be spring mount location but just looking for some tips, ideas and suggestions!

you sir have a yes and no type of question.

Yes you can use longer leafs to stretch the wheel base of the front of your Jeep
No you can not use XJ springs (technically you could) the problem is they are to long. you can move the spring mounts back but that defeats the purpose of stretching
Yes you can use Waggy springs to move the front forward about 2-3" by making or buying a custom stretch bumper for the front.

Waggy front springs are 47" while the XJ's are 51.5" and Cj are 44. The other consideration is your steering set up. IF you use a waggy pitman arm you can sneak out about a 1-1-1/2' stretch. then add on a Heavy duty steering box relocation bracket and you can squeeze maybe another 1" into it. if you wanted to run full hydro you can stick the axle out as far as you want. If you haven't done so yet look into the full width axle mounts with the optional stretch built in.

Or you can get the perches and spring plate that will allow you to move the axle 1" forward.
 
You can use the XJ springs in the rear...the front, as mentioned will be a huge headache.
As was also mentioned, an extended bumper or shackle hangers built out and reinforced are needed to accommodate XJ springs in the rear. A lot of guys will use Waggy springs up front so they dont have to deal with the complications of the stearing box.. and then use XJ springs out back.
The advantage to the XJ springs are the crazy amount of travel one gains using them as well as about 6 inches of axle relocation.

Some guys use Dakota springs which are even more outlandish in length and axle placement. :D
 
Fill us in on how this goes. Interesting topic.
I'm with the others: move the rear axle back and leave the front where it's at. Not only is the front more trouble to move it's also more stable to extend the rear. It helps with hill climbs. Descending isn't as much of a problem.

You've got a very short wheelbase and your putting on very wide axles. You need a longer wheelbase.
How are you going to mount the full width axles? A kit? Custom fab?
Here's a kit from Poison Spyder: CJ Full Width Axle Conversion Kit | Jeep Axle Conversion | Poison Spyder Customs

1149724803_hmpDU-S.jpg

1149724791_PH5r5-S.jpg

1149724778_XHCVK-S.jpg
 
It seems to me that would want to twist the frame, having the springs on the outside. Is that a problem?
 
Yes, if you want to go to full width axles you need to mount them outside the frame. If it were me, I would have the axles narrowed. I don't want to change your plans. I only say that becouse of the trails around here you don't want to be too big. Otherwise wider is more stable.

With full width axles most of your tires will be outside the fenders. Check local laws.
 
Thanks everybody for your suggestions. I have looked into a couple different full width kits for my conversion havent decide if go to buy a kit or fab them up myself. Again thanks for all the suggestions its very helpful!
 
Ill take some pics of the 2 outboarded frames I have in the yard.. they are made differently just so you have an idea if you want to do it your self
 
thanks that will be great and will give me some ideas what to do
 
I would stay away from Poison Spider. Unless you are dropping at least a grand with them, they don't give a :dung: about you. I tried to get a full width kit from them. It took them two months. By then I built my own, which was much better and MUCH cheaper and I didn't have to do the silly shackle reversal. By the way, my springs in front are 32" apart, not 31.25" (Waggy axles)

The issue no one has mentioned thus far is that moving the rear axle rearward makes it want to occupy the same space as the gas tank.
 
have you decided already? ...i am doing the same full width axles but yj springs front xj rear and btf strecht kit...i will do full hydro so maybe i will consider waggy front springs...?
 
Yeah I am running xj springs on rear removing gas tank and installing a fuel cell. Up front I am making all my own brackets with metal I have got for free so will just have my time in it. I am still loking for front springs wanting either yj or waggy, If anybody knows of any in Indiana:chug:
 
Im running waggy fronts and Cj rears with the total wheel base of 115 inches
Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk 2
 
Many who go the Xj route wind up not liking them. They are too weak for the light-weight XJ even. Starting slinging around heavier axles and tire/wheel combos, especially in SOA trim, and you wind up with mad axle hop and s-shape leaves.

Running the same length of spring but with the center pin in different locations can net you 2" to 4" or so of "free" additional wheelbase.

http://littlekeylime.com/MrN/mrnimages/leaf_springs.png

There are many good options there. You can mount your suspension many different places to go with the spring length you want.
 
i was also planning on running a traction bar. that should help with alot of the wrap up i would think
 
If you off-road you may research the "bam bar" as it is said to limit articulation less than a traditional traction bar.

BamBar - Ultimate Anti-Wrap Solution - Jeepaholics Anonymous

It is true that many universal series jeeps with the axle moved rearward can no longer use the factory tank. The easiest solution is either an uber expensive tank from someone like GenRight or to fab a custom fuel cell. The RCI 2161 & 2191's are common choices. I went with the 2191. It is 30" wide and 12" in both depth and length. You could sink it under the floor with a custom skid plate or mount it behind the rear seat by building a simple fire-wall type box enclosure as I plan to do on mine. I could place that tank under the floorboard with no issues in contacting my 14 bolt rear diff after my axle relocation. The mods to the body to do the axle move means you are probably already going to a pretty custom set-up so this is just another custom item that needs addressed.

If you need a fuel cell and have some time, RCI sells them on ebay under the vendor ww8701. I bid on mine and even after paying shipping I said $60 over summit or the "buy it now" options on ebay . I feel confident that this is actually RCI as all of my correspondence about it came to/from and RCI email and the invoice was also from them.
 
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thanks commando that bambar sounds alot better than th other antiwrap bars ive seen
 
should axle wrap be something i should be concerned with? or is the extra fab something to be desired and better to add on now, instead of finding out later?
 

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