Starter Removal...??? Not coming off...

Starter Removal...??? Not coming off...

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#1 - 1977 CJ-7 Renegade (Daisy Jane), Levis trim, 304, TH400, BW1339 (MM), D30/Auburn Max, AMC20/Trac-Lok/G2's, 4.88's, 33" BFG MT KM2's, Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley Sniper 4bbl EFI, MSD6, MSD ProBillet distributor, OME shocks, 4" ProComp lift.

#2 - 1984 CJ-7 Laredo (The Texas Hooker Project - Incomplete/Undecided)
I'm having starting problems and I've deduced that it must be the starter. When I try to start it just clicks and rattles like it has a dead battery but the battery checks out fine. I've tried a new solenoid and that makes no difference. I've cleaned all the cable ends and that makes no difference.

I crawled underneath there to remove the starter and it only had one bolt in it. Can't say why there weren't two but I removed the one that was there and the starter won't come off. What should I do to get this thing off and is there anything else you can think of that might cause this problem?

Thanks in advance...
 
It sounds like you may still have bolt in it.
 
Depends on the motor and tranny, but mine has two......ONE from one side going into the tranny, and ONE from the other side threaded through the tranny housing INTO the starter....

Are you positive you didnt just overlook one?
 
Depends on the motor and tranny, but mine has two......ONE from one side going into the tranny, and ONE from the other side threaded through the tranny housing INTO the starter....

Are you positive you didnt just overlook one?

I'm not postive no... I've googled pics of this starter and it does only have two flanges for mounting, but I didn't think of the bolt coming from the tranny through starter that direction. If it does, it' doesn't come all the way through because I can stick my finger in that hole a bit but haven't tried anything else. I'll take a closer look from that angle tomorrow morning.

Thank you all!!! It's appreciated...
 
I'm not postive no... I've googled pics of this starter and it does only have two flanges for mounting, but I didn't think of the bolt coming from the tranny through starter that direction. If it does, it' doesn't come all the way through because I can stick my finger in that hole a bit but haven't tried anything else. I'll take a closer look from that angle tomorrow morning.

Thank you all!!! It's appreciated...

I didnt even take the time to notice that you are running the same tranny/T-case that I am...!!

You SHOULD DEFINITELY have two bolts holding it on. One from one side and another going into the starter housing FROM the transmission side..
 
Thank you! It did indeed have one running back through that way - came off easy.

The problem is it tested okay, so now all I'm left with is bad cables...:confused:

I guess I'll throw it all back together and replace all the cables, I sure hate to spend money on low percentage parts, but I guess now they're high percentage parts...

Any other ideas?
 
That rattle click click click sound usually means ( for me ) that I have 11 volts which is not enough, try jump starting it. you need a minimum of 12, This problem has happened to me in the past several times :chug:
 
Here is a quick story for you that MIGHT be of some use.

Last year I had a battery tested because I was having starting issues.

I took it to 3 different places and they put a load test on it.

Everyone said it checked out fine. However, I had narrowed my problem down to just a couple of things and in my mind it HAD to be the battery.

My battery was one that had both side terminals and top post terminals. I was utilizing the side post terminals in my GMC van. Finally after telling one guy my exact issue, he actually hooked up the testers to the side posts I was using in my van and determined it was an internal issue within the battery. The top posts were working fine, but the side terminals were NOT.

Lesson: be thorough with the battery test....
 
try jump starting it.
And if it starts you know it is your batt. if it doesn't it is not. This is a very easy and quick way to check it.
 
Voltage Drop Testing | Automotive Topics

Above is a link to voltage drop testing. Thought this would be quicker than typing it all out.

You'll want to do this on the positive and ground sides.

Something I spaced once was that the solenoid is grounded by being bolted down to the fender. If you don't have a good ground there the 12v crank wire cant close the solenoid.
 

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