Stock and Lifted Leaf Height

Stock and Lifted Leaf Height
Sorry if I did not explain myself correctly :eek:

My front driveshaft is touching my tranny bellhousing when I hit bumps...I want to lift the jeep at least 1'' more. I just don't want to spend 1000$ on a suspension giving me the same lift as right now...

That's why I’m asking those questions. I know my suspension has sagged, but I want to know how much

Thanks

Alright then, thought that your focus was on getting a better fit with the 33s. My bust.:) I've got 4" CJ springs on my '76 framed CJ5 w/ Chevy 350/NP435 4-speed and Dana 20 Transfer Case . Just went out and measured 3 1/2" vertical clearance between my driveshaft and the bellhousing at the starter snout. Regardless of how you end up lifting the Jeep to clear the tires and driveshaft, I suggest you install the correct height spring bumpstops in the front now while the suspension is down low. That way you can better judge bumpstop height needed to prevent future driveshaft/bellhousing contact during a big hit.
 
Then I clearly have an issue with engine position...

I have like 1/2" of vertical clearance...
 
Oups, forgot to attache pic...

As you can see...it's almost touching...btw, bellhousing looks like a Lakewood, they use to make and adapter Bellhousing...

Also, we can see I have 6 leafs in front...could it already have a "add a leaf" ?

front+Drive+shaft.jpg
 
Oups, forgot to attache pic...

As you can see...it's almost touching...btw, bellhousing looks like a Lakewood, they use to make and adapter Bellhousing...

Also, we can see I have 6 leafs in front...could it already have a "add a leaf" ?

front+Drive+shaft.jpg
Oh yeh, that bellhousing is a problem. I'm using a stock, mid '80s aluminum bellhousing with hydraulic clutch from a chevy pickup which gives me much more clearance than you're showing there. Hate to say it but you might want to look into a different bellhousing before trying to fix it with more lift. Even engine placement doesn't look like it will be enough - you can only go so far to the driver's side and raising the motor has other trade-offs like unequal driveshaft u-joint angles that will result in vibration.
 
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If you are still thinking about the 60/70 swap 4" springs will be waaaaay to big. Thats how I ended up with the wrangler springs .
 
Actually being a 5 if you do the swap you will probably need to spring under the rear and over the front for good driveline angles so different size springs maybe needed. I've seen it done but on trail rigs only .. Can't imagine how it would handle on the street !!!
 
Sorry wrong thread I'll go home now.
 
Sorry wrong thread I'll go home now.

It's confusing to me too - too many Jeeps in my driveway to keep straight sometimes.
 
Coolspot, what was your answer to the bellhousing problem?

Ty
 
Coolspot, what was your answer to the bellhousing problem?
Ty

Well, engine is out right now because I need to change rear oil seal...

I bought some M.O.R.E. bomb proof motor mounts and plan to install them...
They look 1in higher and they shift the engine about 1/2'' to the driver side
:) it should help.

Now I notice that my frame is a pre 1976
:cool:... Truck paper says 1976, windshield is 1976 but frame is the same width on all length.

I always thought it was a 1976 because frame is boxed in front... but looking at it carefully, frame looks boxed stock in front and has plates welded in the back...

I'm still trying to figure out what is the difference between pre-76 and 76+ front section of frame because M.O.R.E. says "1972-1975 frames require slight modifications for the JM200 mounts to fit properly."
:confused:

I sent an e-mail to M.o.r.e. on December 26th and still waiting on an answer...


So... still working on this...


thanks
 
That bell housing is solid with a ton of bolts. I would notch that sucker for more clearance to the driveshaft. I am sure it can handle one notch without hurting strength.
 

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