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Stock Roll Bar metal?

Stock Roll Bar metal?
The HF bender is stout. Only problem is bending a full stick of material. I just laid it down on it's side in my driveway to do that.
 
Hedgehog, did I read that right ? 2" odx 1.5" id = .250" wall thickness.That H/F bender must be stout.I haven't build any rollbar/sportbars in a while so just surprised at how heavy that pipe is. I am sure you will have no worries of collapsing it. mike:)

Well I can say this. I took a piece of 1 1/2"(1.9" od.) pipe to the metal shop to get bent for my bumper guard. I don't recall what the wall thickness was off hand but the charts for sched.40 say it is .15", I know it was no more than 3/16". Their hydralic bender used larger radius dies than I wanted so they had to use the floor mounted pedestal bender. It took 4 Amishman (yes, it was an Amish metal shop) to bend this pipe 60 degrees. So I'm doubting it was 1/4" wall sched40.
 
PaRengade/mstar - The OD was slightly smaller than 2", but close enough for what I was doing. Remember, that's 1/2 the 1/4" or 1/8" wall thickness. I was surprised how close to 2" OD it turned out to be, virtually matching my stock roll .... err ... "Sport Bar". I did use the 1.5" die fot the material.

Edit: Wait a minute, on the way in to work it occurred to me that I was wrong and Pa is correct, that would make a 1/4" thickness. I asked for 1.5" sch 40 gas pipe, the OD did measure ~1.9" nd I did use a 1.5" die, but there is no way the wall thickness is 1/4". This leaves me to ponder some. The wall thickness is substantial, but not 1/4".......

If the rollers are set in very close to the die it takes a considerable amount of energy to bend the pipe, but with the rollers out further, along with a reinforcing shim under the roller to keep from bending the pipe at the roller, the pipe bend fairly easily. It was easier to use both arms, I.E. 10 pulls with the right, 10 with the left and so on until the bend was where I wanted it to be.

I really was impressed with the H-F bender. Especially after pricing what it would cost to have it don in a local shop, $50 for a Craigslist bender didn't look so bad. Besides, when I'm done there won't be any problems selling it again for the same $50.00
 
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I may have to checkout one of those benders. My math sez 2.00" minus 1.500"= .500" divided by 2= .250" or 1/4" . Just say'n .
We need pics when you get done and the weather is better.
Happy Turkey Day All. :)mike
 
Read my edit above, it occurred to me that I was not correct..... :) The wall thickness is definitely not 1/4", that would be in tank type thicknesses, well not tank like, but you get my drift.

Weather, this is Tucson Arizona, down here the weather doesn't get any better for this kind of work. Cool air, but not cold, this is the weather people come here for.
 
Heating the area with a 'rose-bud' will help with the bend'n also. ;)
BTW-Bet that wall is closer to .190 thickness.
LG
 
I prefer tubing

If it just might make a difference with my life, I'll over design :D
 
Alright here are the real numbers directly from the caliper:

The pipe I used - OD 1.90" wall thickness 0.15"

My jeep came with a partial roll cage with <-BAD WORD-> Cepek (sp?) add on roll cage tubing that I hated and cut off - OD 2.0" wall thickness 0.13" ..... yep the wall thickness is definitely thinner, not by much though.
 
Now you have me curious. I'm gonna have to get a piece of the scrap and mic it to see what thickness mine was to need 4 Amishman to bend by hand. They had to use 1 3/4" dies so I got slight crimping on the inside of the radius, barely noticeable though.
 
I am surprised to learn that tubing is generally done by hand with nice smooth dies and pipe is done with a hydraulic jack with dies. The H-F bender did impress me where I didn't expect it to. Mine is the 12 ton model, a 16 ton model is also available for use with material up to 3 + something, inches. Since most any material will have a bit of "spring back" attention needs to be made to over bend slightly. To get a nice 90* I went to 47* on a side to get a nice consistent 45* bend, two sides @ 45* = 90* total bend.

Reread my previous post .... Evidently D-i-c-k as in Richard is a bad word so it posts as "pinkie", never gave that a thought. :)
 
:DThat's funny. I noticed it but thought you were referring to a po. paint job. Now it makes sense.
 
A good trick for the HF bender is to tape/ clamp a 6" caliper to measure the jack ram travel. Load the pipe. Zero the caliper and bend away. When you have what you want record the max ram travel. Instant matching bends. :D
 
I checked the pipe that I used. It's got a 1.62 i.d., a 1.91 o.d., and a .134 wall thickness. Which is what 1 1/2" sched.40 pipe would be.
 
1.91-1.62=.290. .290/2= .145" wall

Time re calibrate the caliper . . :D

Or new batteries for the calculator
 
Thanks for that. I know what I asked for, 1.5" sch. 40 gas pipe AND I know how to read a caliper. I also know the numbers don't really work out as expected. The real numbers are in my post and I'll stick to them. Yes, I know I made a mistake in my earlier saying that the OD was 2" (I knew it was ~1.9" but rounded up) and the ID was 1.5" (the size I asked for), that makes ALL the numbers I wrote subject to ridicule, nothin' new. I've seen it before.......

PaReegade - It looks like both our numbers are close enough to be the same in the real world. There might have been some grinding dust in my pipe. My numbers ranged from slightly more to slightly less. 0.15" average wall thickness, 0.134" is in the ball park.
 
Yes, theres still tape around the outside and dust on the inside, but it's close enough for guvm't work. I had just never checked it to be sure and I bought it about 2 years ago, but I was surprised that it took 4 guys to bend it when I've bent 1" pipe by myself.
 
Yet another great day. I spend a couple hours working on the roll bar modification. The roll ... "Sport Bar" was removed and one side angle tube was cut off with the angle grinder, ground smooth and the new pipe was welded in place. It really is nice to weld real steel, turn up the mig and melt some metal. Even my daughter thinks it's better than it was before.

The weld seam inside the original pipe shows it definitely wasn't DOM tubing.
 
Had a friend over to help finish up the rear portion of the "Sport Bar" re-engineering project. Once the door is open to be able to add attachment points. Good solid points consisting of 3/8" dia. coupler nuts welded into the "Sport Bar". I find it almost impossible to stop adding points. I've already got 12, 2 sets on the outside (4), 2 sets on top (4), with another 12 in the works. That seems like a lot, but these things come in pairs. Shoulder belts (2), a couple on the back (4), 2 sets on the inside (8). Naturally the pipe is ~1.90" and the length of the nut is ~3/4" so I can't quite get an inside and an outside from one nut. Man, at $1.78 ea. those nuts aren't cheap. Not complaining, just talkin'.

Can someone help me out here? I need a measurement from the top of the wheel well to the center of the seatbelt attachment point on the rolllllll, oops ..... "Sport Bar". I said I'd never go with a modern 3 point belt, but I'm getting sick of fishing the existing belts out from the side of the seats.
 
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Thanks for that. I know what I asked for, 1.5" sch. 40 gas pipe AND I know how to read a caliper. I also know the numbers don't really work out as expected. The real numbers are in my post and I'll stick to them. Yes, I know I made a mistake in my earlier saying that the OD was 2" (I knew it was ~1.9" but rounded up) and the ID was 1.5" (the size I asked for), that makes ALL the numbers I wrote subject to ridicule, nothin' new. I've seen it before........

I did not mean to offend and am sorry if it came off that way. I am just anal about math.

Tube or pipe? Anything is better than nothing. :D
 
I should have actually measured before I spoke (wrote), you were right to call me on it and I did learn a thing or two. No matter how many people say that pipe is measured on the inside, and I'm sure that it supposed to be the standard, 1.5" sch 40 pipe is not 1.5" on the inside. Not by a long shot either.

I have included reinforced corners in the final design. It might not be an actual roll cage, but the thing is VERY stiff.
 

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