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Stupid Brake Light Switch

Stupid Brake Light Switch

JeffP

Senior Jeeper
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Location
Peoria, AZ
Vehicle(s)
'75 CJ5, 304, T18, D20, D44s w/3.73 1974 CJ5, 304, 4 spd., Dana axles 3.73 gears. 1973 CJ5, 258 I6, T18, Dana 20, Dana axles 4.27 gears. 1972 CJ5, 304, 4 Spd, Dana 20, 4.27 gears. 1976 CJ5, 304, T150. 1976 CJ5, 304, T150, J20 w/4.10 gears. 69 CJ5 Hurricane 4 cyl, 4spd all original! ‘53/‘54 M38a1 100% original but also 100% apart! Low 3 digit Vin! One of the very first m38a1s!
The guy that came up with the pedal mounted brake light switch needs to be slapped! Hard!
They are fragile, finicky and a pain in the rear to constantly replace.
To remedy that I decided to install a hydraulic switch & be done with it. My first thought was a simple Tee fitting beside the master cylinder. After becoming frustrated with finding the right parts I realized that I could just drill & tap the master cylinder and screw in the switch. Duhhh.
My next step was to remove the master cylinder, disassemble it so I was certain no metal shavings would remain inside. Then as I was setting up to drill it, I noticed a threaded plug in the bottom. This is the really embarrassing part... anyway I unscrewed the plug and sure enough, the switch screws right in! That’s what the hole is for!
I put it back together really fast so nobody would notice that I took it apart for nothing. The new switch works great!
 
we need pictures we need pictures :)
 
That is not a OEM type M/C.
Drilling the M/C for any reason, is NOT a good idea.
LG
 
That is not a OEM type M/C.
Drilling the M/C for any reason, is NOT a good idea.
LG
Hey! Do I go to McDonalds & complain to you about not using real beef in the hamburgers?

;)

On a serious note.... if done properly, why is it a bad idea to drill & tap it? I trust my work far more than some $5 per hour guy on an assembly line.
 
FWIW, the hydraulic switches have their issues as well. I've had a couple of them short out and take the lighting with 'em (at night). The drive home was interesting.
 

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