Suspension doesn't move
BREW
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Suspension doesn't move
- Thread starter BREW
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- '85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
See where they sit after the body and everydangthing else is installed.
Big part of the issue is the double shock deal......
LG
Big part of the issue is the double shock deal......
LG
BREW
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I got the body sitting on it,the body is only about a couple hundred pounds and i'm 200 pounds and it still does not move.Could the shackles be a problem? What would going to 3 " shackles do for the jeep ?Tomorrow i will remove 4 of the shocks and see what that does.
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- '85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
I would check to be sure you have the correct length springs. They look a mite short.
LG
LG
BREW
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I wonder the same thing,i had the lift put in in 1986 and never finished the build so everything is the same as it was then.Now i'm getting back to it,how do i go about finding out the spring length?I wonder if that's why the shackles l slant back.
BREW
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the shackles are like this front shackles \\ center \\ back shackles,i was told that they should look like this // center \\
gr8dain
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BREW
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1979bettywhite
Jeeper
Front: 1 3/4" width, 39 3/4" length
Rear: 1 3/4" width, 46" length
http://oljeep.com/gw/74_tsm/12-Suspension.pdf
Page 12-6
Thats a lot of red, and a lot of shock
Rear: 1 3/4" width, 46" length
http://oljeep.com/gw/74_tsm/12-Suspension.pdf
Page 12-6
Thats a lot of red, and a lot of shock
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Lift springs are technically longer in length due to the higher arch than your stock OEM non lifted spring..........But your mechanical length between the perches is still set at the old OEM length from A to B ...........that's why it has 6" shackles in order to be able to install the spring..........which is the incorrect way to do so as you have found out.
This is a common problem that aftermarket spring sellers do not tell anyone.
The shackle angle must be at about 15-20 or more degrees away from the fixed end of the spring to work correctly and in some cases due to the higher arch that angle may have to be greater just to keep away from the shackle inverting...
The only way to fix that is to move one hanger to correct the shackle angle....and if your looking for a decent ride those springs will not give you that.........
This is a common problem that aftermarket spring sellers do not tell anyone.
The shackle angle must be at about 15-20 or more degrees away from the fixed end of the spring to work correctly and in some cases due to the higher arch that angle may have to be greater just to keep away from the shackle inverting...
The only way to fix that is to move one hanger to correct the shackle angle....and if your looking for a decent ride those springs will not give you that.........
BREW
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So would i be better off eliminating the extra shocks? Well i had that lift put in back in 85 or 86 so i should take them off have the right ones made?What shackle should i go with 3" ?Thanks for your help tarry99 and 1979bettywhite and ya that is a lota red when i redo it won't be so much red
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- '85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
What is it, that you think those extra shocks do for you?
You really want the 'softest' valved shocks you can find.
LG
You really want the 'softest' valved shocks you can find.
LG
BREW
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You know i really don't remember what i was thinking about 32 years ago but they do look cool lol
- Posts
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- Springfield, Missouri-U.S.A. Earth
- Vehicle(s)
- '85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
32 yrs-HECK, sometimes I can't remember what I was doing 30 minutes ago. 
Torxhead
Always Off-Roading Jeeper
I think you should start with leaving one of the existing shocks at each corner. Then determine just where you want to go from there depending on your driving style. You can also lower your tire pressure for a softer ride too. Try to use as short of a spring shackle as you can, the ones you have are good just go to the other hole on them. Those longer ones can really tilt from side to side putting excessive stress on the spring hangars.
1979bettywhite
Jeeper
Yes. Depends on what you want to do with the jeep. If it's a total trail rig then you could do lift shackles etc. If on the street might want to stick closer to 3" shackles. Two shocks at each corner would beat you to death in the street and it would probably keep you from getting max flex on the trail. Shocks have come a long way over the years in terms of technology and performance. But a leaf spring vehicle is still that. Higher end or larger quantity won't really help much. Gearing and lockers get you way more bang for your buck.
Looking forward to what you get to down the road!
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Looking forward to what you get to down the road!
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BREW
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It will be mostly just around the town maybe take the grand kids to the dunes once in awhile,no mud running or trail riding.So i want to stay with the 4" lift and the 35s but i want the damn thing to have some give when you hit a bump
1979bettywhite
Jeeper
Definitely go back to one shock per corner or add some harnesses in the back to hold in bouncing grandchildren! 
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BREW
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lol
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There is no easy fix for your issue.............when you say I want to keep the 35's and also want a compliant ride.......they hardly ever complement each other without a major change in how that is accomplished.
The lift springs do one thing only ........and that is to raise the vehicle for the clearance you desire or need to clear the larger tires............short of cutting the sheet metal away until you find that clearance....
By re-arcing the OEM length short spring to the desired height it has to be much stiffer (lousy ride) to hold the weight up higher..........a much longer spring will accomplish that but not a short spring............
Another technique is to do a spring over axle. Basically that is putting the spring on top of the axle rather than below the axle........the immediate gain is the 4-5" of free lift and you can now run a much flatter softer more compliant spring like perhaps a YJ spring, but the steering geometry has to be addressed because of the higher ride height and that could mean , high steer spindles, perhaps a dropped pitman arm and maybe a few other things............of course you would have to do both front & rear which may bring about some driveline / pinion angle corrections , but when done correctly and I repeat done correctly the Jeep has the ability to have tire clearance , a soft ride and drive normally .............. Nothing but choices.