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suspension guidance

suspension guidance

weithman5

Jeeper
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181
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Location
Illinois
Vehicle(s)
84 cj-7 renegade (original owner)
I will be getting my frame and axles back soon, and will be ready to start building up. (84 CJ7 , Renegade ).

I have seen a lot of 2.5 inch systems but if I have to alter the drive train, I am not too interested. I have seen mixed guidance.

I have found one stock kit but I would like to use 3/4 inch or 1 inch longer shackles. I don't think this is a problem, though I have not found if I need to alter the shocks.

fundamentally are there pros or cons that may help me decide which way to go?
 
I have seen a lot of 2.5 inch systems but if I have to alter the drive train, I am not too interested. I have seen mixed guidance.

I have found one stock kit but I would like to use 3/4 inch or 1 inch longer shackles. I don't think this is a problem, though I have not found if I need to alter the shocks.
Very little alterations if going with a 2.5" lift. But if you're content to run 31" tires (or smaller), then the OEM springs will work fine. I believe stock shocks will work with a mild shackle lift.

A 3/4" shackle 'lift' will only yield 3/8" of true lift. For the most part, it is close to stock (I'm running 'old school' ConFerr 3/4" shackles - 3/8" lift, on my 76 CJ5 with a 2.5" BDS lift kit). Likewise a 1" shackle will only yield 1/2" of lift. There are vendors/places that sell OEM length aftermarket shackles, and they are more heavy duty than OEM. Be advised that using any aftermarket shackle will necessitate installing the correct bushings.

One of the major problems you will encounter when lifting the suspension, is the effect it will have on caster. You need to have 5-7 degrees of POSITIVE caster, or the CJ will wander/dart all over the traffic lane. Rear driveshaft angle is also a concern, but with a CJ7 you do have a bit more forgiveness than I had with my CJ5 .

When anyone asks me: 'What the most expensive mod done to your CJ5 ?', I always respond: 'Tires'. Because changing to a larger tire size, necessitates changing a whole lot of 'stuff', so the entire package works right.
 
I went with a 2 1/2" OME YJ conversion with no alterations needed. If you get a complete kit, everything but degree shims comes with it. Some will say you need to drop the T case an inch or so if you develop a drive line vibration. Because I'm a little longer than a 7 I didnt need to drop the T case. I did have some front end squirrliness on the first test drive, so instead of putting a shim in I flipped the first (smallest) spring because I noticed it was tapered and it did the trick. Probably not perfect caster, but not squirrly either.
 
OME 2-1/2" YJ was too soft for me so I added their extra leaf, perfect now.

I did a shackle reversal in the front so I got a Woods long travel drive shaft for the front and a double Cardigan for the rear. No problems since.
 
Thanks again. I like the body lift idea. I have to replace all the mounts anyway
 

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