T18A Input shaft leaks. Cant get it to stop.

[CJim7]

What...about....
The shaft itself. A small score can wear at the lip of the seal, it doesn't take much.

 

[dsrt4]

If everydangthing was 'rite'. Then it wouldn't be leak'n.
LG

Well how about this then. Everything seems to be working or measuring up as it should...........and it's still leaking.

 

[Hedgehog]

Yep .........

How does his Transmission sit in the frame? Does his sit at a different angle from yours?

Then there's a standard internet response. Have you checked the bolts holding your exhaust on or the license plate bracket? I think this calls for a complete rebuild of your winch. Often winches with problems, especially those made in China create a vortex wide enough to actually suck the oil right out of a perfectly good T-18 . Now, if you had an automatic all your troubles would be gone.

Munchausen Syndrome by T-18 . You haven't found him with a small bottle 1/2 full of Transmission oil have you? No greasy hands when they should be clean?

 

[Lumpy Grits]

What...about....
The shaft itself. A small score can wear at the lip of the seal, it doesn't take much.

Have had this issue also. Used a 'Speedy-Sleeve' on the shaft and it hasn't leak'd since.
LG

 

[Hedgehog]

I think he said they replaced or got a new one from NOVAK or was that Advanced.

 

[dsrt4]

Yep .........

How does his Transmission sit in the frame? Does his sit at a different angle from yours?

Then there's a standard internet response. Have you checked the bolts holding your exhaust on or the license plate bracket? I think this calls for a complete rebuild of your winch. Often winches with problems, especially those made in China create a vortex wide enough to actually suck the oil right out of a perfectly good T-18 . Now, if you had an automatic all your troubles would be gone.

Munchausen Syndrome by T-18 . You haven't found him with a small bottle 1/2 full of Transmission oil have you? No greasy hands when they should be clean?

Lets see...

Sits about the same but his is a 78 and mine is a 73 so....

Bolts are tight on his exhaust last he checked.
He has zip ties on his License plate..
He has a ancient Warn winch. I think it was made in the USA
Automatic would be nice..

If I would have found greasy hands when we had to yank it in Telluride to clean the oil off the clutch face off I would have freaked..

 

[dsrt4]

I'll be working on this next week. I guess I'll take the input shaft and take it into work and see if it has any run out on the seal face compared to the other machined surfaces.

The seal surface itself was great and was just a few thou shy of mine. Seal had a nice fit.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Is this a single or double lip seal?
LG

 

[dsrt4]

It was a timken single lip for the first one if I remember correctly.

I think the second one was a national or something.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Here's a double lip one.
https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/NOS12363/

Very common seal BTW.
LG

 

[Hedgehog]

Try using a liquid gasket seal around the outside of the seal.

Here's another thought. He might need another bell housing. Seriously another bell housing. If his bell housing bearing retainer hole is only slightly off the center line or out of line with the pilot bushing it would tend to pull the shaft in one direction or the other creating a gap in the seal. Think about it, the input shaft wouldn't wobble or create a shake. With occasionally loose manufacturing tolerances it's sort of a miracle the centerline of the "crank - pilot bearing - bell housing - main shaft" with the input shaft being sort of a bridge aligns at all.

 

[dsrt4]

Try using a liquid gasket seal around the outside of the seal.

Here's another thought. He might need another bell housing. Seriously another bell housing. If his bell housing bearing retainer hole is only slightly off the center line or out of line with the pilot bushing it would tend to pull the shaft in one direction or the other creating a gap in the seal. Think about it, the input shaft wouldn't wobble or create a shake. With occasionally loose manufacturing tolerances it's sort of a miracle the centerline of the "crank - pilot bearing - bell housing - main shaft" with the input shaft being sort of a bridge aligns at all.

Could be I Guess.

I do wonder how the rust bucket CJ5 went 345k with it if it was off like that. The Bell was only slightly gross on the outside when we got it from the leaky engine that was in front of it.

 

[Hedgehog]

You've already taken care of about everything inside the box, it's time to start thinking outside the box.

 

[dsrt4]

I'll put the bell on the cmm on Thursday of next week and see what it looks like. I have another NOS stock bell at the shop that I can use as a base.

No other t18a input shafts to use though if this one is running out. If it is he will have to source another. Or maybe we can have this one machined down and metalized if it is running out causing the leak.

 

[dsrt4]

Update..


Looks like sealing surface diameter is running out about .020". Probably just enough to cause this slow seeping leak. We are going to try and find another input shaft for it.

It'll be spun between centers to see if it is running out as well.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Look into a 'Speedi-Sleeve'.
I have used then with great results.
SKF Speedi-Sleeve

LG