The right ford 8.8 axle?

[Dano12771]

Hey I was wondering if anyone can help me narrow my search for a ford rear 8.8 axle. I believe the years I'm looking for are 95-01 in a explorer or mountaineer. But i don't want to end up w/ a Limited slip, which are indicated w/ a tag on the diff cover w/ an "L" in the number. My question is, are there specific years to avoid that have the Limited slip? Also are all 8.8s on the explorer and mountaineers 3:73? Just don't want buy the wrong one. Or is the Limited slip the only thing to look for. Meaning can I buy the wrong one beyond(the Limited slip) issue.

 

[fzsk4p]

Hey I was wondering if anyone can help me narrow my search for a ford rear 8.8 axle. I believe the years I'm looking for are 95-01 in a explorer or mountaineer. But i don't want to end up w/ a Limited slip, which are indicated w/ a tag on the diff cover w/ an "L" in the number. My question is, are there specific years to avoid that have the Limited slip? Also are all 8.8s on the explorer and mountaineers 3:73? Just don't want buy the wrong one. Or is the Limited slip the only thing to look for. Meaning can I buy the wrong one beyond(the Limited slip) issue.

The 8.8 was used in a number of different applications. Passenger car and light truck. The Exploder/Mountaineer have the width that is closest to a Jeep CJ. So yes, use the Exploder/Mountaineer as your choice.

As you will see in the chart below there are also different ratio`s. Best that I`ve understood is that the Exploder and Mountaineer used only 3.73 and 4.10`s.

Far as LS or open. That is choice for you to make. Open was standard and LS optional.

The carrier is the same whether you use 3.08`s or 5.13`s.

These are the codes you will need when out shopping for your 8.8

Axle tag codes:

3L73 = 3.73 LS

4 10 = 4.10 open

4L10 = 4.10 LS

Door codes, IE the list of standard/optional equipment.:

43 Open 3200 3.08

41 Open 3200 3.27

42 Open 4.10

46 Open 3.73

45 Open 3200 3.55

D4 Limited Slip 3200 3.73

D2 Limited Slip 4.10

L73 Limited Slip 3.73

Here's all the specs, measurements, and misc information about the 8.8.

Ford 8.8 specs:

Weight (complete assembly w/ brakes etc.): 174 lb.

Axle shaft strength: 6,500 (lb. ft.)

Bolt size (U-joint flange to yoke) is: 12 x 1.75 x 30 mm

Driveshaft Flange: Spicer Part Number 2-2-1379

Measurements:

O.D. of tubes: 3.250".

Tube thickness: .250" (some are .188”!)

Ring gear diameter: 8.800".

Ring gear bolts: 7/16" dia. (qty. 10).

Pinion diameter/splines: 1.625 / 30.

Axle shaft/splines: 1.320 / 31 spline.

Overall width 59.625" The Superior C Clip kit will add an 1 inch per side. As will the Moser 7750 ends.

This might be useful also.

The axle shaft strength tested by Warn Ind:
F8.8= 6,500 (lb. ft.)
Dana 44 = 4,600-5,000 (lb. ft.)
D35C= 4,000-4,300 (lb. ft.)
-------------------------------
COT: Continuous output torque rating
MOT: Maximum output torque rating

(Numbers from January edition of Fourwheeler, page 60.)
Dana 35 rear axle COT: 870 MOT: 3480
Dana 44 rear axle COT: 1100 MOT: 4460
Ford 8.8 28spline COT: 1250 MOT: 4600
Ford 8.8 31spline COT: 1360 MOT: 5100
Dana60 semifloat COT: 1500 MOT: 5500]

 

[Dano12771]

Wow that is a lot of great information thanks a bunch. Narrowing my question on the Limited slip , does the Limited slip have any draw backs? Like can I chg gears or add a locker with a Limited slip from the factory or is the Limited slip the same as a non Limited slip 8.8? Obviously one is a locker and one isn't ? But besides that I mean should I avoid the Limited slip? Sorry about the rambling trying to convey my questions might be a little murky.

 

[fzsk4p]

Wow that is a lot of great information thanks a bunch. Narrowing my question on the Limited slip , does the Limited slip have any draw backs? Like can I chg gears or add a locker with a Limited slip from the factory or is the Limited slip the same as a non Limited slip 8.8? Obviously one is a locker and one isn't ? But besides that I mean should I avoid the Limited slip? Sorry about the rambling trying to convey my questions might be a little murky.

The LS is a compromise over a full locker (Detroit/ARB) offroad. A LS will never perform as well as a Locker in low traction situations.

On the other hand a locker is not the best choice for a short wheelbase vehicle on the road. It can have some handling quirks and tire wear will likely be increased.

Locker Vs. Limited-Slip - Differential - Detroit - Off-Road Tech - Off-Road Magazine

Open or LS from the factory.
Yes you can change gears to anything you want. You have to replace the LS carrier complete for a true Detroit or ARB locker.

So if you plan on adding a locker. An open carrier equipped axle might be a few bucks cheaper to purchase.

Since you have a I4 engine. The front axle will be a 4.10. My advice would be to find a 4.10 geared 8.8 to save on the cost of the gears. Whether it is important that it is an open or a LS depends on what you plan on doing carrier wise.

 

[Dano12771]

That was exactly the question I was asking thanks. I can't believe you were able to figure out my garbled question. I do plan on swapping out the i4 to a 6-8 eng. So gears might be changed. Along w/adding lockers. That's why I needed to know if a "LS" could take a locker and new gears. I had here'd that gm Limited slip 14 bolts could not except lockers. I wasn't sure if it was the same for 8.8s.

 

[fzsk4p]

That was exactly the question I was asking thanks. I can't believe you were able to figure out my garbled question. I do plan on swapping out the i4 to a 6-8 eng. So gears might be changed. Along w/adding lockers. That's why I needed to know if a "LS" could take a locker and new gears. I had here'd that gm Limited slip 14 bolts could not except lockers. I wasn't sure if it was the same for 8.8s.

Your welcome. And yes you are correct. A 14 bolt that had a Limited slip RPO Code G80. Also know as the Gov-Loc/Gov-Bomb. CANNOT take a locker. You must have an open carrier to install a locker in a 14 bolt.

 

[Dano12771]

So how does that work? Meaning if I had "LS" version could I still install a real locker ie arb? Can a "LS" be regeard? I'm just not sure of the mechanics of the "LS". Sorry the question seems redundant just want to make sure I understand the situation. Thanks again.

 

[fzsk4p]

So how does that work? Meaning if I had "LS" version could I still install a real locker ie arb? Can a "LS" be regeard? I'm just not sure of the mechanics of the "LS". Sorry the question seems redundant just want to make sure I understand the situation. Thanks again.

On an 8.8 the carrier be it open or LS. Will be replaced in it`s entirety when you install a locker. Take whatever carrier your axle comes with and set it aside. You will not reuse it.

Your new locker (ARB or Detroit) will replace the entire carrier the axle came with.
ARB Air Locker Ford 8.8 Inch 31 Spline All Ratios (RD81)

Rustys Offroad: Detroit Locker - Ford 8.8

Unlike most axles. The 8.8 uses the same carrier no matter what gear ratio you install. You can have an 8.8 from a Crown Vic tugboat that had 3.08 gears and with no changes, mount up a set of 5.13`s.

So yes, if you want to. You can regear the LS carrier that comes with your axle. No problem.

 

[Dano12771]

Believe it or not I had to laugh a little at your last reply. I wasn't laughing at u but laughing at me in the sense of, I realized that my questions might of come across to be a little or should I say a lot of elementary. If I could just explain, I don't have anyone around me that is into off roading or building up a 4x4. Not to mention I'm a very cautious person when it comes to spending money. That's why I seem to be asking a lot of questions. So if u run out of patience I completely understand. Sorry about that and thanks for your last reply. I've been doing a lot of reading of the sites you've given me to really get familiar w/ the 8.8. They've been very helpful.

 

[fzsk4p]

Believe it or not I had to laugh a little at your last reply. I wasn't laughing at u but laughing at me in the sense of, I realized that my questions might of come across to be a little or should I say a lot of elementary. If I could just explain, I don't have anyone around me that is into off roading or building up a 4x4. Not to mention I'm a very cautious person when it comes to spending money. That's why I seem to be asking a lot of questions. So if u run out of patience I completely understand. Sorry about that and thanks for your last reply. I've been doing a lot of reading of the sites you've given me to really get familiar w/ the 8.8. They've been very helpful.

No worries.

Since you are in Toledo and have no friends .Well 4x4 friends
Who is going to do you set up on your axles ?

Might consider DTS. They are not far from you and do this type of work everyday. Prices are fair and they do good work.

DTS - Drive Train Specialists

Let me know if you want Superior shafts. Highly recommend them as they are the only shafts still made in the USA. Consistent quality. They have a lifetime warranty.

Already mentioned the Superior Super 88 kit.

EDIT. Came across this on the forum. Check out post #9
http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f2/1983-cj7-rear-axle-recommendations-appreciate-input-7508/

 

[Fifesjeep]

DANO,

I've been reading all of your posts/threads and I am drawing questions on what your overall goal/scheme is.
I know I am pretty much hit or miss with things but, give us a detailed/set in stone game plan as to what your definitive plan is so that we're not all jumping around answering questions that have been answered thousands of times already. I'm not trying to be a but I don't exactly see your game plan for a build. Supposedly you had a 1 ton set-up that could've been used with minimal work but supposedly you sold that... (what did you get for it?)... You could've used them and been perfectly fine with deep offset rims and wider fender flares to make everything "legal"
Anyway, below are some questions that should help everybody get a soild perspective/view on what/where you want to go with your rig.

What do you have at this point and time?
What engine?
What Tranny?
What Transfer Case ?
What Axles?
Is it going to be a DD?
Are you going to wheel it?
What kind of terrain will it see?
What size tires are on it?
What size tires do you want to run?
What kind of lift do you want?
What kind of ride do you want? (soft/flex or stock/tighter etc)
What size engine are you going to run?
What tranny are you going to use?
What Transfer Case are you going to use?
What axles do you plan on running?
WHAT IS YOUR BUDGET?
Once we know these things we will be suited to give you better ideas/suggestions etc.

 

[Dano12771]

ouch, all right here we go. I have a 1985 CJ7 with a i4 eng. T-4 Transmission , Dana 300 Transfer Case and older 31"tires. basically a stock jeep. Dana 30 frt axles and AMC20 rear. What I want to do. Run 35-37" tires, sbc eng(350?) better Transmission , re-use Transfer Case (Dana 300 ). Beef up frt axle(Dana 30 ) and run a ford 8.8" rear and beef it up(new axle shafts?) this will keep the stance of the jeep a little closer to stock. The jeep will not be a daily driver. It will probably be on the road though more then the dirt or rocks but, when the i have the oppurtunaty to go wheeling i want it to hold up and not have to worry about things breaking. as of right now im thinking my budget is around $5,000. I guess as i get more info on doing a build like this for the first time, things will change ie.(the 1ton truck). im not saying it wouldnt of been great having that running gear but, after hearing some feedback from other members I decided to go in another direction. believe me when i say i dont want to rub anyone here the wrong way so for that i apologize. As far as rough ride or soft ride i could prob live with either depending on what im losing or gaining. I think thats it. At this point this is all I know. Im going in this direction but, doing this for the first time things could change a little, I hope youll understand

 

[Dano12771]

NOt sure yet still trying to track down my ford 8.8. def going to upgrade both the front and rear when i get to that point. I was considering doing the set up myself.

 

[Old Dog]

As someone else said, with a I4 you should have 4:10 gears now.
IMO if you only go 35" tires and don't play to hard the stock axles in both the 30 and 8.8 should hold up fine.
The 8.8 is app. 4" wider than your 20 though, so you will want to narrow it.

 

[fzsk4p]

As someone else said, with a I4 you should have 4:10 gears now.
IMO if you only go 35" tires and don't play to hard the stock axles in both the 30 and 8.8 should hold up fine.
The 8.8 is app. 4" wider than your 20 though, so you will want to narrow it.

Please correct me if I am wrong. The CJ rear track is 56 inches.

The Explorer 8.8 comes in at 59 1/2 +/- So we have a 3 1/2 difference in width. Or 1 3/4 per side.

I really don`t think 1 3/4 is enough to worry about. But that is just my opinion.

 

[Old Dog]

Please correct me if I am wrong. The CJ rear track is 56 inches.

The Explorer 8.8 comes in at 59 1/2 +/- So we have a 3 1/2 difference in width. Or 1 3/4 per side.

I really don`t think 1 3/4 is enough to worry about. But that is just my opinion.

I quess my thinking is, The factory has always put in a front axle that was a couple inches wider than the rear. With the stock width 8.8 it would be wider than the front. I believe this would hurt on road handling. Off road no problem.

Looking down the road though, it would be the right width (full width) for a waggie 44 front.

 

[fzsk4p]

I quess my thinking is, The factory has always put in a front axle that was a couple inches wider than the rear. With the stock width 8.8 it would be wider than the front. I believe this would hurt on road handling. Off road no problem.

Looking down the road though, it would be the right width (full width) for a waggie 44 front.

Respectfully think that it would be a none issue.

 

[fzsk4p]

I quess my thinking is, The factory has always put in a front axle that was a couple inches wider than the rear. With the stock width 8.8 it would be wider than the front. I believe this would hurt on road handling. Off road no problem.

Looking down the road though, it would be the right width (full width) for a waggie 44 front.

Respectfully think that it would be a none issue. My YJ was set up that way and I never had any issues.

 

[RangerRick]

EDIT. Came across this on the forum. Check out post #9
http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f2/1983-cj7-rear-axle-recommendations-appreciate-input-7508/

That would be me with the 8.8 in my CJ7 and it was worth every penny. It's a perfect match for the 3/4 ton Chevy Dana 44 I had narrowed for the front end. BTW, after it's narrowed for two passenger shafts the total width is only 5/8 of an inch wider than stock CJ wide-track. I like to use off-the-shelf parts when building my Jeep in case I ever encounter a mechanical problem parts are as close as my local parts house, salvage yard or worst case scenario... The stealership. Hence the reason for this VERY POPULAR Explorer 8.8 swap, no custom parts that become unobtainium when on a trail ride in the outback. RangerRick

 

[Dano12771]

I hope that my continuation w this project doesn't waste anyones time, but please understand that with this being my first build of this magnitude things will change as I go along. As I pick up more information from you guys I research those ideas and then decide on to continue w/ this direction or chose a diff path based on members feed back or suggestion. Beleive me the last thing I want to do is waste Anyones time, as I know how valuable time is. As far as the Dana 30 being narrower the the f 88, cant I run diff off sets for the rims or use spacers? Now I have the 88 at home I'm trying to track down the right motor Transmission combo. So I'm open to suggestions to research and make a decision. The combo is going to need enough power to turn min 35" tires and to handle some fairly tough off roading. Again thanks for all those who have taken the time to reply.