This is not a Carter is it?

[firedocs]

Hey guys I am not sure but was reading about the "nutter" in preparation of doing it to my 85' CJ7 , and they mentioned it had a be a carter BBD. I began to inspect and wander about my CJ (which I thought was near 95% original) and found the sticker that reads "re-manufactured". Does anyone know if this IS a carter just rebuilt or otherwise? If it is not a carter is there any need to do the "nutter"?
Thanks

 

[Petescj]

That is definitely a Carter BBD. Most likely just replaced with a rebuilt one.

 

[firedocs]

It is? OK so I am good to go on the "nutter bypass"? Another question I just came across, why is there hoses from the exhaust going into the air cleaner housing? I thought motors ran better on cold fresh air...what gives?

 

[IOPort51]

It is? OK so I am good to go on the "nutter bypass"? Another question I just came across, why is there hoses from the exhaust going into the air cleaner housing? I thought motors ran better on cold fresh air...what gives?

Is this a hose that looks kind of like the one on the dryer vent in the laundry room? It takes warm air from the outside of the exhaust manifold and delivers it to the carb untill it warms up. It is a good thing. known in some circles as a TAC thermostatic air cleaner.

 

[firedocs]

Yeah I see that one, but there are two heater hose types that come off of the exhaust directly and go into the air filter housing on the opposite side of the carb. Just seems like too much hot air inside that thing. Anyway I did complete the "nutter" without any problems, really havent given it any testing just fired her up and set the timing correctly. I guess next will be the TFI upgrade and then I will see a difference I am sure, really she don't run bad at all, just dose not have the top end and nothing after 3000 rpms. I will keep you informed as to how that goes.
Thanks
Tim

 

[TDHofstetter]

Those two hoses to the air cleaner are for your "pulse air" thingie, an emissions-control abomination. You'll find ways to remove the hoses & close off both ends.

I worry a little that you've got no guts above 3KRPM. That SHOULD be there. I can't help but wonder if your timing chain is badly stretched so the whole valve train is running late. Ignition timing, too, since it's driven off the camshaft.

 

[firedocs]

Really? I was hoping that the ignition was the cure. Idle seems to be better now, yet there is that engine run-on after I shut it off. Maybe it is a thing with the timing. Eventually I will get a carb and rid myself of all those lines and hoses as to hopefully simplify the engine and compartment.
Thanks
Tim

 

[Berg]

I had the same issues. I on the other hand had to replace my whole wire harness. I ripped out the computer and all emissions except the pcv to the carb. Then installed a weber 32/36 and now its running great.

 

[Berg]

Once you do the nutter you need to advance your timing

 

[Cheepjeep85]

your supposed to set the timing at around 8 deg. btdc with the nutter bypass

 

[firedocs]

I did adjust the timing to the sound of the engine. It turned out to be about six notches above the eye, is that close to 8 degrees?

 

[TDHofstetter]

Adjusting your timing BY EAR is just begging for troubles. Please - for your sake as well as ours - get a timing light. By ear, you could be all the way to the far side of the ballpark. It'll vary like crazy, too - different fuel mixtures & atmospheric conditions & ignition conditions will change what seems best by ear.

Let's get it timed TO THE MARK, then concentrate on chasing everything else down. We'll KNOW the timing's right then, so we can totally ignore that factor.

 

[firedocs]

OK Maybe I was not real clear, I did use a timing light and it was 6 notches above the eyelett. My first statement I did not know what timing was supposed to be( after the nutter), thus I used the engine sound at full warm and idle. It seems that it is supposed to be 8 degrees btdc- Is that 8 notches? above the eye? If so I am only at six.
Thanks
Tim

 

[TDHofstetter]

Ah. Ok - now it's more clear. 8 BTDC should be the 6th tooth counterclowise of the eye (magnetic timing probe socket). The second tooth is TDC, and each tooth is 2 degrees the notches are odd degrees, the teeth are even degrees). So... set it to the 6th tooth, at low idle (about 600-750 RPM) and with the vacuum line unplugged from the distributor. If you still have the CEC vacuum switch thing attached to your valve cover, disconnect the wiring from it, too, while you time the engine (although it shouldn't matter if you've done the full Nutter).

 

[TDHofstetter]

One more thing you might check. Roll the motor over to TDC on #1 cylinder. Take the distributor cap off & carefully look to see where the rotor's pointing. The firing order should be 1-5-3-6-2-4... if the rotor's pointing at 1 but a little toward 4, it's right. If it's pointing at 1 but a little toward 5, you need to roll all the spark plug wires around the cap one step. Otherwise, when your vacuum advance kicks in on TOP of the mechanical advance, your rotor may be giving more spark to #5 than to #1 at TDC1, and so on all the way around.

 

[firedocs]

Awesome...maybe I can get to that this week. Or I might just go ahead with the TFI and redo the whole distributor cap, rotor and all. The info on here for that upgrade is very good, all the way down to the part numbers. However I think that I will buy a real good set of plug wires insted of just a regular set. I really appreciate the info everyone, thanks abunch.
Tim