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Thumping Noise I think it's coming from??

Thumping Noise I think it's coming from??
Something seems weird; he only did 2.5" springs according to the part numbers.

My CJ came with a 4" lift and I was surprised to find that the DS angle was not split evenly between the TC and pinion; there was about a 12* difference or so. I was surprised that it never made any noise.

Khass; can you get a angle finder at home depot or the parts store and measure your DS angle.

I'd still call Morris and double check on those springs and bushings.
 
Something seems weird; he only did 2.5" springs according to the part numbers.

My CJ came with a 4" lift and I was surprised to find that the DS angle was not split evenly between the TC and pinion; there was about a 12* difference or so. I was surprised that it never made any noise.

Khass; can you get a angle finder at home depot or the parts store and measure your DS angle.

I'd still call Morris and double check on those springs and bushings.


Theres a 3" lift cause I put a 1/2" shackle lift on there too. I will try to get one tomorrow. I will call them but not sure that I will be willing to take them off to send them back, lol

I mean i'm doing all this in my 2 car garage with basic tools. No compressor nothing to make this job easier it took me two hours to take that rear end off and turn the shims around lol
 
Did you install a Transfer Case drop with the lift?

That should have been some spacers that go in between the frame and the crossmember that holds the Transmission /tcase up.
 
Did you install a Transfer Case drop with the lift?
That should have been some spacers that go in between the frame and the crossmember that holds the Transmission /tcase up.

Nope u have not touched the t case. Not sure I'm that mechanically inclined. Although it might be a good idea to do that when I go to replace all my body mounts. Idk
 
Its very simple. If you look at the Transmission /tcase crossmember where it attaches to the frame, you should see two spacers between the frame and crossmember. Each side had two on my 73 anyways. The drop kit is just a larger spacer that lowers the Transmission /tcase a little bit to improve your ds angle.

Or maybe yours will have none; my jeep came with a 4" lift so maybe those came with the kit. I don't know what is stock as this is my first jeep.
 
I'm with olddog. I would think about running a CV driveshaft. That looks like a lot of angle to shim out with just a Transfer Case drop and/or axle degree shims. Its gonna let you down at the worst time if you don't do it right now.
 
Best thing I ever did was get the CV Driveshaft...

When your angle is wrong, and you ignore the signs (vibration and or clunking) the u-joint will go out, and hopefully its not at 65 on the highway like me... :D

But you're a step above me for handling before that :cool:

Look into tom woods driveshafts, or local driveshaft shop locally, they'll get you set up right.

Transfer Case drop and shims DO work, but I like higher clearance with Transfer Case tucked up for rocks, also didn't like my shims failing so went with hard steel instead of aluminum...

:chug:

~ Jr
 
Best thing I ever did was get the CV Driveshaft...

When your angle is wrong, and you ignore the signs (vibration and or clunking) the u-joint will go out, and hopefully its not at 65 on the highway like me... :D

But you're a step above me for handling before that :cool:

Look into tom woods driveshafts, or local driveshaft shop locally, they'll get you set up right.

Transfer Case drop and shims DO work, but I like higher clearance with Transfer Case tucked up for rocks, also didn't like my shims failing so went with hard steel instead of aluminum...

:chug:

~ Jr

I like the Tom Woods but not sure I can answer all of there questions to the T.....I guess since I am going to be doing this what can I do to my Transfer Case to make it better?
 
If you off road any at all, I would not lower the t/c. Keep what little ground clearance you have.
Here's a link with a ton of info, Pirate4x4.Com - Extreme Four Wheel Drive
If you call Tom Woods on the phone he will help you measure for a new shaft.
 
If you off road any at all, I would not lower the t/c. Keep what little ground clearance you have.
Here's a link with a ton of info, Pirate4x4.Com - Extreme Four Wheel Drive
If you call Tom Woods on the phone he will help you measure for a new shaft.

That's a lot of stuff that just brings maybe a tiny bit of knowledge to me lol. I don't want to lower it I don't do a lot of off roading and to be truthful I have only had it off road only one time since I have had the Jeep and during that time I broke a leaf spring. Mainly it's just going to be for fishing and trailing and something to work on. I'm really squared to even take things a part on it cause of 1. Money 2. General knowledge of how stuff works & 3. Everytime I take something a part to make it better I end up having to troubleshoot everything I do. lol

Thanks :chug:
 
I think I am going to wait a minute on the drive shafts there a bit pricey. I'm not going to be driving it anytime soon just have some little maintenance I need to do.

Thank yall
:chug:
 
Dont be discouraged. This is normal. :chug:
That's a lot of stuff that just brings maybe a tiny bit of knowledge to me lol. I don't want to lower it I don't do a lot of off roading and to be truthful I have only had it off road only one time since I have had the Jeep and during that time I broke a leaf spring. Mainly it's just going to be for fishing and trailing and something to work on. I'm really squared to even take things a part on it cause of 1. Money 2. General knowledge of how stuff works & 3. Everytime I take something a part to make it better I end up having to troubleshoot everything I do. lol

Thanks :chug:
 
Dont be discouraged. This is normal. :chug:

I may give Mr. Woods a call today....Idk if I buy a new rear driveshaft I kind of just want to drop the t case and clean it up paint it rebuild the parts if any that need it.
 
We're talking angles here...

You have the two choices on getting the angles right for it to be drive-able at all.

You can lower the Transfer Case a little, and find the right angle and wedge size for the rear-end, as shown earlier, or the harder, but in my opinion better, option: you "upgrade". Budget and buy the drive shaft and new tail piece for the Transfer Case . You'll have to remove the tail (output) from the Transfer Case (one large nut) and install the new one (same large nut). There are torque specs, so get her right and tight. Then your Transfer Case can be tucked up nicely and avoid Transfer Case drop. The tail shaft will point paralleled with the ground - straight to the rear of the jeep. Then +/- a few degrees, you'll point your pinion to the Transfer Case using new and corrected shims. Then you re-install the drive-line.

You may find your local drive line shop will do this for you for a price, but it will then be done right, if you are uncomfortable doing it still.

Transfer Case drops are, in my oppinion, like a drop-pitman-arms, or high shackle lifts... they DO work, and are designed to fix the right problem, but for me it put too much stress on the engine tail and left my trasfercase down for rocks to catch (basicaly, they cause other problems).

Either way we are here to help bud, and let us know if we can help walk you through it. This is a good beginner project (minus angle finding... I hate angles) that will help you build confidence with working on your jeep.

As Pete said, this is normal :D

:chug:
~ Jr
 
I still recommend getting the angle finder so you can measure. Take a side shot of the jeep too. Id like to see how high it is.

For what its worth, if you need to do the tcase drop until you can drop the money on a CV shaft, my 4" lift came with about 1/2" of spacers.

Not sure what Tom Woods wants, but Tattons Driveline did one for me and the price was fair in my opinion. I think its only like 250 for a 1310 shaft.
 
We're talking angles here...

You have the two choices on getting the angles right for it to be drive-able at all.

Either way we are here to help bud, and let us know if we can help walk you through it. This is a good beginner project (minus angle finding... I hate angles) that will help you build confidence with working on your jeep.

As Pete said, this is normal :D

:chug:
~ Jr

I guess my last response was kind of confusing lol, I am most def. going to do the right thing by buying a new rear drive shaft, but while in the process I was wandering if I should take my Transfer Case out like completely uninstall it and do any necessary maintenance that would need to be done to her. I've been looking around at different places for drive shafts

I read the reviews that tom woods has for the 1350 and 1310 double cardan drive shafts i'm thinking I may go with the 1310 when the funds come available.


Thanks again :chug:
 
I still recommend getting the angle finder so you can measure. Take a side shot of the jeep too. Id like to see how high it is.

For what its worth, if you need to do the tcase drop until you can drop the money on a CV shaft, my 4" lift came with about 1/2" of spacers.

Not sure what Tom Woods wants, but Tattons Driveline did one for me and the price was fair in my opinion. I think its only like 250 for a 1310 shaft.


I have not been able to get to that pic but will soon sry. and still working on that angle finder.
I think if I go with Tom Woods for the 1310 double cardan drive shaft and new yoke or w/e it's around $270 to $300

Thanks bud
 
Check Tattons. I paid 350 for a 1350 shaft. Pretty sure the 1310 is 250.

Still scratching my head here on why you need one with your level of lift and you aren't making a hard core off road vehicle.
 

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