• Hello Guest, we are proud to now have our Wiki online that is completely compiled and written by our members. Feel free to browse our Jeep-CJ Wiki or click on any orange keyword when looking at posts in the forum.

Ticking noise lifters?

Ticking noise lifters?
In part 2 you did a closeup of the tailpipe sound.
The first video I thought I heard what sounded like a popping sound (bad, or sticky valve)
The close up is more detailed, and I don't hear anything that's is out of the norm.
 
Posi said:
In part 2 you did a closeup of the tailpipe sound.
The first video I thought I heard what sounded like a popping sound (bad, or sticky valve)
The close up is more detailed, and I don't hear anything that's is out of the norm.
Click to expand...

Part 2 is after the Jeep had warmed up. When the Jeep is cold it seems to run rich and make that first exhaust sound till it warms up a bit. I've kept the gas as fresh as I can with stabil, and have run maybe 3 or 4 tanks of fresh through it since July. I have a rebuild kit for the carb, but I want to narrow down and get the tick fixed before I tackle what to do with the carb. The Jeep has plenty of power and I can cruise at 60 to 65 on the interstate so long s I don't hit to many hills.

Sent from my SM-T377P using Tapatalk
 
I don't know if anybody noticed but my alternator and power steering pump are switched on the wrong sides. They were like this when I bought it in March of 2015. The power steering lines were new and custom jobs. The guy I bought it from in Asheville had done this because the wiring harness to the alternator was toast. Along with allot of other wiring! Instead of fixing the wiring I guess

Short story this Jeep had sat for probably 10 years before I bought it. The previous owner had it painted and got very ill and parked it. He passed away and his friend ( the man I bought it from) got it running enough to sell. I drove it from Asheville back home to Elizabethton Th ( about an hour away ) on brand new dry rotted tires. You could tell it had been sitting a while as everything had a funky mouse closed up smell to it as well as all the tree sap all over the Jeep. He did clean the carb and replace the fuel tank and lines.

Sent from my SM-T377P using Tapatalk
 
Regardless, I would use the MMO treatment, check for exhaust leaks as others have mentioned.
If you want to diagnose the valves hook up a vacuum gauge to full vacuum and run the engine at idle (around 700 rpm) and post a video.
 
Tn CJ Fan said:
I don't know if anybody noticed but my alternator and power steering pump are switched on the wrong sides. They were like this when I bought it in March of 2015. The power steering lines were new and custom jobs. The guy I bought it from in Asheville had done this because the wiring harness to the alternator was toast. Along with allot of other wiring! Instead of fixing the wiring I guess
Click to expand...

I did noticed this and find it very strange. Seams like it would have been a whole lot easier to just fix the problem than doing all that.
 
Don't know if this was mentioned, but doesn't cost anything to wait til dark, pop the hood and look for little blue or white sparkies in the dark. Just to varify your ignition is not arcing. It will make a ticking sound like a lifter or loose pushrod at times. It can also be intermitent. It only takes a few seconds. Best time is when it's making the noise if you can catch it at night. Don't run it in the garage, do it outside so you can take your time and you have gooe ventalation. Just an idea.
 
jafo said:
Don't know if this was mentioned, but doesn't cost anything to wait til dark, pop the hood and look for little blue or white sparkies in the dark. Just to varify your ignition is not arcing. It will make a ticking sound like a lifter or loose pushrod at times. It can also be intermitent. It only takes a few seconds. Best time is when it's making the noise if you can catch it at night. Don't run it in the garage, do it outside so you can take your time and you have gooe ventalation. Just an idea.
Click to expand...

Spark hunting/arcing, use a pump spray bottle filled with soapy water. Spray your cap and wires down. Those plastic plug wire holders are terrible cause they hold the wires to close together. You can also use a 12 volt trouble light. Connect the ground cable to battery - post. Use the probe end and run along your wires and cap. Should light off if your wires are bad and arcing.

slomo
 
Just a quick update. Sorry it's been a while but I run a heating and air company and get busy when it's cold. Any way I ran the Jeep for a few weeks with the MMO in the oil and did finally install a mechanical oil pressure gauge.

The ticking never really changed. My oil pressure was running between 40 and 45 with it running about 37 or 38 at iddle.

I changed my oil to the 15w 40 Stella and it didn't affect the oil pressure. Still runs between 40 and 45.

I tried to do the team rush upgrade but I apparently have a Frankenstein distributor because the adapter doesn't fit no matter which way I try to turn it. Also I ran the Jeep at night looking for errant sparks, but didn't catch any blue or white streaks.

I listened with a stethoscope and it sounds like a lifter or pushed on the number 2 cylinder. When the weather warms up a little more and my works slows down a bit I will pull the valve cover and see what's going on.

Sent from my SM-T377P using Tapatalk
 
37-38 psi at idle-Is this hot oil pressure?
FWIW: Try a can of Restore in that engine to calm the tick'n down.
Trust me-It works.......:notworthy:
LG
 
No 37 psi was at idle cold. At hot idle it is running at about 25. When driving while hot it climbs to 50 during accelerating and runs at around 45 to 50 at say 2000 to 2300 rpm.

Sent from my SM-T377P using Tapatalk
 
That hot psi is fine.
LG
 
Thanks for the update. With as many miles as you have on your engine, that 15w-40 is a good choice. I believe your ticking engine noise is caused from a clogged lifter and would suggest changing your oil a bit more often and use an additive designed to clean lifters out. Your ignition does appear to be oem, Did you use the adapter for the team rush style cap? From all the info I have seen on that conversion it does state to use it.
 
You've been given good advice, and it looks like you're following it - so that's awesome.

I'd keep with the 1q Marvel and the rest a good quality diesel 15w40. Diesel blend oils have higher zinc and are loaded with detergents and you need both.

While you do this, change oil and filter as much as you can afford to. Filter will be full of :dung: from the detergents. This tick may very well go away after awhile without cracking a bolt, and if so - once it's gone I strongly suggest replacing that quart of Marvel with Lucas Oil Stabilizer and continuing with a 15w40 diesel oil.

I don't want to start a religious discussion on oils and stabilizers, but the "reasonable" value-adds that this brings to the table are inarguable, particularly with an engine like the any CJ came with stock.

Good work on this!
 
STP has way more zinc, than Lucas does. ;)
LG
 
Lumpy Grits said:
STP has way more zinc, than Lucas does. ;)

LG
Click to expand...



Lumpy that’s TOTALLY dependent upon what line you running, so you can’t make a blanket statement.

I’ve not seen zinc higher in anything than Lucas Hot Rod line for older engines. There may be something, I’m just saying I haven’t seen it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last time I looked-The blue bottle of STP was higher in zinc than Lucas'.
None of the stores around here, carry the Hot Rod Line of stuff from Lucas.
Lucas only shows one HD oil stabilizer, that I can see.
TNX for the tip on the engine oil!
LG
 
Lumpy Grits said:
Last time I looked-The blue bottle of STP was higher in zinc than Lucas'.
None of the stores around here, carry the Hot Rod Line of stuff from Lucas.
Lucas only shows one HD oil stabilizer, that I can see.
TNX for the tip on the engine oil!
LG
Click to expand...

Just to keep apples to apples - I was referring to zinc in motor oils, not additives specifically, so that may have left some room for confusion. Sorry about that.

Here's a link to Lucas zinc values on their oils (not stabilizers)
https://lucasoil.com/pdf/Zinc_Values_MotorcycleOil.pdf

I personally use the 10688 10w40 Hot Rod oil with 1 quart stabilzer.

There are two stabilzers (just so you are aware), one organic and one synthetic. Any parts store should be able to get whatever part number you need from Lucas. if not, I can.
 
Just a quick update. It turned out to be a loose rocker arm. Had to replace the arm and push rod. Took care of ticking noise straight away. Sorry I took so long to post a fix. I did sell the Jeep in Aug of 2018. I am on the hunt for another CJ.

Sent from my SM-T377P using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Jeep-CJ Donation Drive

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a contribution.

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a contribution.
Goal
$200.00
Earned
$0.00
This donation drive ends in
0 hours, 0 minutes, 0 seconds
  0.0%
Contribute
Back
Top Bottom