Tie rod flip

[Sasquach]

I have decided to do the tie rod flip to get rid of my drop pitman and regain a more correct steering setup.
For those that have been down this road what has worked for you? Are there heavier ball joints to be had? how bout the heim joint drag link setup? Reemer or sleeves in the knuckle?

 

[Purple77CJ7]

I used sleeves and then reamed my drop pitman arm to run drag link knuckle on top to run parallel with tie rod. I run supposed HD knuckle joints really can't see the difference from stock.

 

[Old Dog]

I have decided to do the tie rod flip to get rid of my drop pitman and regain a more correct steering setup.
For those that have been down this road what has worked for you? Are there heavier ball joints to be had? how bout the heim joint drag link setup? Reemer or sleeves in the knuckle?

Not sure on the HD ball joints, but I'm sure someone makes some.
I don't know if heim joints are DOT legal or not.
Now the one thing I do know is with the tappered reamer and double tapered sleeves,(the way I went) there's a real chance of reaming them to deep. I also wonder how they are going to hold up over time as they are pretty thin. http://ok4wd.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=tie+rod+flip+kit

If I were to do it again I think I would go the route of drilling and reaming them out and using the sleeve thats straight on the od. and tapered for the rod end on the id. http://www.goferitoffroad.com/products.htm

 

[BusaDave9]

Getting rid of the dropped pitman arm and doing the tie rod flip will help bump steer a lot. The goal is to get the drag link to be horizontal.

If the drag link is at a steep angle then as the suspension compresses, the axle and steering knuckle are closer to the steering box. That forces the tire to the right as you go over a bump. And then the tire goes to the left as the suspension extends. That's your bump steer.
I have a tie rod flip.

 

[Sasquach]

Thanks all. Busa with my drop arm my linkage is almost parrallel but the arm is shorter than should be adding steering wheel turn and I also think the drop arm adds that much more leverage on the steering box and mount.
Old dog, thats interesting that the heim joint may not be DOT, not sure there is any more movement with a heim joint anyway so with my not so flexable CJ the ball joints may be good enough.

 

[Purple77CJ7]

My drop pitman arm is a little shorter than the stock flat one. It added just a little more steering turn, but slowed it down so it isn't so touchy. I also run a M.O.R.E. Steering box bracket and brace.

 

[Kane]

Heim joints have a tendancy to wear and since there is no taper they get loose and then your steering goes to hell. Great for offroading because they are strong but not for longevity. You cannot beat a good solid greasable tie rod end.

 

[CJim7]

I used heims...big ones

 

[Petescj]

Just lurking and learning.

 

[Sasquach]

I used heims...big ones

Home built? off the shelf? Pics of your "big ones"?

 

[CJim7]

Home built? off the shelf? Pics of your "big ones"?

I built the tierod, measured, drilled and tapped... and used off the shelf heims. Drilled out the arms and assembled. I'll get some pics and post up some specs later today if I get the chance.

 

[CJim7]

Here you go...
1 1/4" x 3/8" stock (yes...heavy) drilled and tapped for 3/4" hiems. connecting arms drilled out for 5/8" bolts

 

[CJ007]

Off topic, but I just got the "fastest barbecue on 4 wheels." I always saw and wondered, green motor, barbecue, hmmmm..I don't get it. And all it took was a few beers and reading your info. LOL!

I assume on a spring over there is no flip, have to go high steer?

 

[CJim7]

I assume on a spring over there is no flip, have to go high steer?

Edit: I just picked up what you are saying (see, you're not the only one). I believe SOA needs to keep the stock location if using the stock axles or knuckles. I think there would be interference with the spring packs...but I could be wrong. High steer would be the way to go as the knuckles are built higher. You can use Dana 44 high steer knuckles on a Dana 30 btw...
I simply moved my steering linkage and tierod to the top of the arm...as the stock location is under the arm which just leaves too much in the way of rocks for my taste
Im using a stock pitman arm. My suspension is a 4" spring lift with YJ shackles for another ½" of lift.

 

[CJim7]

Off topic, but I just got the "fastest barbecue on 4 wheels." I always saw and wondered, green motor, barbecue, hmmmm..I don't get it.

Originality is kinda my 'thing' lately
...The thought of yet another seafoam colored AMC V8 running on gasoline just didnt appeal to me

 

[oldguy]

Sasquach, I just did the flip thing but only to the drag link. I had a drop pitman arm which was shorter than stock by about 1 3/4". I put a stock pitman arm back on, flipped the drag link to level it out. Steers great again. I may do the tierod, not sure. Anyway I used the reamer type with the little taper shim thing for the bottom, it's ok but I agree with Old Dog I think the drill it out and use a solid sleeve may be better. If your going to do the reamer thing let me know, I'll give you the Snap On number for the reamer. You can probably rent one a LOT cheeper than buying one in the kit.

 

[Sasquach]

Thanks all. I have ordered the goferit weld in sleeves and will post some install pics for others interested in doing the mod.

 

[MN CJ7]

, it's ok but I agree with Old Dog I think the drill it out and use a solid sleeve may be better. If your going to do the reamer thing let me know, I'll give you the Snap On number for the reamer. You can probably rent one a LOT cheeper than buying one in the kit.

Thanks for the the nice write up on the tie rod flip..... I saved this info and liked the goferit weld in sleeves best. Due to this write up.....I just purchased a Dewalt Std Black Oxide 3/4" drill bit that was on clearance at Sears.... They are clearing out the Std Dewalt 3/4 drill bits with a neck down shaft for $8.00. That is about half price... The big bits like 3/4" are not cheap either.... normal is 15-20$$ so consider this too in your cost/benifit comparisons....

I would like to know the Snap On Reemer part number if you could post it... Thanks in adv Old Guy.

The reemer "angle" is one of the reasons I have never done the tie rod flip...... Never seen it published yet. Having the snap on reemer number would be a good way to know what the reemer angle is.

Thanks and nice write up Guys

 

[oldguy]

MN, Snappy number is - R121 - and I can tell you the taper is wrong. Once reamed out I drove the sleeve in the bottom cranked down the pitman arm and it's tight "for now".

 

[CJ jammin]

If it's any help, when I was researching lifts for my XJ I read a build thread on a guy who put heims on. He mentioned they were'nt street legal but he was building an "Off-road only" machine. This is a really informative thread. Got me thinking as my drag link is bowed upwards and still rides right on top of the spring. But I also need to get the rest of the slop outta my steering.