Tie rod flip

Tie rod flip
Hey everyone...
I have been following this thread because of my own steering "issues".

There is one thing I dont understand, and please feel free to call me out on my lack of knowledge in the steering dept...What is the purpose of reaming out the knuckle? I KNOW there is something I am missing here. I am assuming that from the factory, the hole in the knuckle is tapered to allow for the tapered tie rods and it must be drilled out. Then and a sleeve that effectively "reverses the taper" becoming smaller at the bottom of the knuckle must be tapped in, and I guess welded. Is that correct?

It has been approx 9 yrs since I had the front end apart, and it is a vague memory for me how it is set up. My tranny is out, and I am going to tackle a few issues while my CJ is down.

BTW: excellent thread, I am gaining a lot of useful info.
Hopefully I'll get enough to lose the drop arm I have had on it, and do the flip. I also have a question about a PS gear box, but it should prob be on a diff thread...

thanks in advance
brian
 
jeepboy45 said:
I am assuming that from the factory, the hole in the knuckle is tapered to allow for the tapered tie rods and it must be drilled out. Then and a sleeve that effectively "reverses the taper" becoming smaller at the bottom of the knuckle must be tapped in, and I guess welded. Is that correct?
thanks in advance
brian
Click to expand...
Yes, It sounds like you have it right. The steering linkage comes from the factory mounted on the bottom of the steering knuckle. The taper is smaller at the top.
If you want to mount the steering linkage on the top of the knuckle you need the taper to be smaller at the bottom of the knuckle.
:D
 
@BusaDave9: thanks for the confirmation.

I saw some part numbers, drill bit sizes, etc listed.... but is there a specific kit that someone on here recommends? I'd really like to jump on this project...

BTW: I just posted a Q in a new thread "79 CJ to newer PS box". Please feel free to give imput on that issue. You guys ROCK!!

brian
 
jeepboy45 said:
@BusaDave9: thanks for the confirmation.

I saw some part numbers, drill bit sizes, etc listed.... but is there a specific kit that someone on here recommends? I'd really like to jump on this project...

BTW: I just posted a Q in a new thread "79 CJ to newer PS box". Please feel free to give imput on that issue. You guys ROCK!!

brian
Click to expand...

two links on page 1, post #3

Read the thread again some of the comments / posts are about the review of the kits...

I want to do this too and my CJ drives great... I can drive with fingers or one hand going 65/70 mph... This wk end drove 350 miles all 60-70 mph and wheeled for 7 hrs or so... Very proud of my little CJ, she preformed perfectly on/off road.. This is a good thing for CJs with lifts and tires...




I also found a VW kit but not sure if the taper angles are the same... but it seemed to be less $$$ for those that want to look
 
Yep. The whole purpose is to keep the stock TRE by reaming and using an insert.
because my CJ is more trail dedicated then street driven, I chose to go the heavy duty route and drill them out in favor of heims
 
Would you do all three, or just the drag link at the pass side?
 
jeepboy45 said:
Would you do all three, or just the drag link at the pass side?
Click to expand...
Yes, i would recommend doing all 3.
Doing the drag link on the passenger side will eliminate bump steer.
Raising the tie rod will increase the ground clearance and gets your steering linkage out of the way of rocks.
 
YAH for me!!!
I ordered 3 before you suggested doing 3...
I just wasnt going to say it in case you said it was a total waste of time to do all 3 !! LOL HAHA

I'll do it this weekend..
thanks
 
UPDATE: I contacted the company about my issue with the sleeve not fitting flush and it looks like Sasquach was correct. This is what I received from them:

I spoke with service and this what they said
There is slight variation in the knuckles. Here’s how to correct:
1. Install sleeve in bottom of knuckle.
2. Install tie rod and snug castle nut down (10 lbsft if you have a torque wrench).
3. Remove nut and grind remaining portion of sleeve flush with knuckle.
4. Reinstall nut and torque as required- install cotter pin.
 
7D8CJ said:
I used the M.O.R.E. set up. Turned out nice but kinda Squirrely at high speeds. :dunno:
Click to expand...

I got the 3 kits today and am in pursuit of a cheap"ish" 3/4 bit....
I read somewhere that tack welding the insert isnt totally necessary....
Any thoughts on that? I have also seen some who do NOT use the nuts supplied with the kits in favor of using the factory castle nut/codder pin. Again... any thoughts..

BTW: @ 7D8CJ....nice looking front end!! (and I mean that in a totally not gay kinda way) haha
 
Thanks, The M.O.R.E. kit requierd drilling the tapers out to 5/8 and using straight bolts and spacers. There is a nylock nut and the bolt is drilled for a cotter pin.
 
I got the kits from goferit today.
I believe I spent more time jacking up the front end, securing with jackstands and getting the tires off, than actually popping tie rods and drilling/welding... SO SIMPLE.

I will suggest anyone doing this to use the LARGEST DRILL you can find while drilling the knuckles. I am a tile setter, and I used my large, slow mixing drill I use to mix concrete, mud, etc. It has handles that spread nearly 2 ft apart. And even then, it torqued me into the fender wells!! If I had used a regular hand-held drill, I might have broken my damn wrists!!! LOL..........(obviously removing the knuckles and securing in a drill press would have been the most ideal way of doing it. )

I dont have my stock pitman, so it is hard to tell whats going to happen with the geometry until I put it on. But I believe the gain of flipping the drag link, offset by getting rid of drop pitman... the end result might show the drag link further away from horizontal..

But I guess getting rid of the drop arm is a positive thing, right?
 
Guy Smiley said:
Jeepboy, have any pictures? Did you weld top and bottom?
Click to expand...

The directions said that only a few tack welds were necessary around the top. So thats really all I did. I honestly dont see the need to weld at all. If I didnt weld them at all, its possible in the future when the tie rods need to be popped out, the inserts might come right out with the tie rod---"locked" onto the tapered rod , never to be gotten off. At least if they are tacked in place, they wont come out of the knuckle.

Pics will follow as soon as I grind down my sloppy embarrassing welds. LOL... its been about 7 years since I welded, and never with a mig welder..
 
Guy Smiley said:
UPDATE: I contacted the company about my issue with the sleeve not fitting flush and it looks like Sasquach was correct. This is what I received from them:

I spoke with service and this what they said
There is slight variation in the knuckles. Here’s how to correct:
1. Install sleeve in bottom of knuckle.
2. Install tie rod and snug castle nut down (10 lbsft if you have a torque wrench).
3. Remove nut and grind remaining portion of sleeve flush with knuckle.
4. Reinstall nut and torque as required- install cotter pin.
Click to expand...


The directions now come with those instructions about grinding the bottoms off if they protrude through the knuckle. Maybe your question to HQ changed things!!
 
jeepboy45 said:
The directions now come with those instructions about grinding the bottoms off if they protrude through the knuckle. Maybe your question to HQ changed things!!
Click to expand...

Not to confuse things but the system I used was the small inserts with the reamer. Having said that, it appears this issue can happen with both systems. The reason I'm interested with the system you are using is I believe I could change what I have now to yours if needed.
 
Guy Smiley said:
Not to confuse things but the system I used was the small inserts with the reamer. Having said that, it appears this issue can happen with both systems. The reason I'm interested with the system you are using is I believe I could change what I have now to yours if needed.
Click to expand...


As I wrote before......"SIMPLE".. WAY SIMPLE... The hardest part was holding onto the drill, as I opted to leave the knuckles in place as I drilled.
Even using my huge mixing drill, it threw me around a bit.

But if you ever wanted to change systems it shouldnt be an issue unless you welded the inserts in place...then it might be more difficult to drill !!

Since I must be a simpleton and cant figure out how to add pics to this....I wont for now.
 
Thanks Dave...I guess if I had scrolled down far enough I might have seen that tab....But who knows... LOL...

I didnt show any welds because it has been about 8 years since I have touched a welder... and maybe I should have practiced a bit before tacking up the sleeves....I wont embarrass myself with that picture .. hahaha

Check out the size of my drill.... (and I mean that in a totally non-sexual way!!)
 

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