Torque wrench - which??
JeepSavage
Jeeper
- Posts
- 22
- Thanks
- 1
- Location
- Ozarks, Arkansas.
- Vehicle(s)
- 1975 Jeep CJ5, AMC 304 V8, T150, Dana 20,
1953 Willys M38A1.
I use a Milwaukee impact with torque sticks, have checked it against my torque wrench and it’s pretty close1/2 in beam. About the only time I use it is for wheel nuts so I know they are on tight enough, but not over torqued. I forgot about the 3/8 drive one my buddy gave me when he was overseeing a novice build my engine.View attachment 104478
Yes, I neglected to specify Drive size <slaps himself>hehehe. For the record, I was seeking a 1/2 " drive..,)). And you are correct, the Craftsman is cheap and accurate. It Would be a practical choice considering. Thank You for your suggestion.3/8" 1/2"? Craftsman's are cheap and accurate
You are right, they aren't always needed. Not only that, most if not all products today are JUNK compared to the same products from days gone by. In my case, I am soon to replace the rear main seal, and since it has been a while since i have twisted any wrenches, i would feel more comfortable having some measure of objective evidence of how tightly and evenly i have tightened things. I agree, and thank you for your suggestion!I've used em all over the years and TBH 99% of the time a torque wrench isn't even needed. So save the money get a harbor freight or something cheap you may only use it once or twice if that much
The CDI wrench would be an excellent choice. It is availible on Amazon as well. Thank You for your suggestion!Here's the one I have. 1/2" drive, dial setting, tough as nails. USA made. Love it. They are part of the Snap-On family now. CDI 36105 Torque Wrench
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Yeh, the beam type is still useful for less exactinand it is cheaply available.I use a Milwaukee impact with torque sticks, have checked it against my torque wrench and it’s pretty close
1/2 in beam. About the only time I use it is for wheel nuts so I know they are on tight enough, but not over torqued. I forgot about the 3/8 drive one my buddy gave me when he was overseeing a novice build my engine.View attachment 104478
Yep, sure are. Especially when you get them correct, and they STILL leak...))).It’s the very low torque values like valve cover gaskets that are hard to get correct.

Interesting. Why only the beam type? Is this in checking the rotating torque of 10-25 inch pounds?For differenttial pinion bearing preload setting and verification a 1/4" beam style torque wrench is 100% necessary. No click type will work...![]()
Yes, you have to check the amount of bearing preload drag using the wrench while rotating the pinion. A click type wont do that accurately as it only checks the amount of torque to overcome the initial drag which is higher than the rotating drag. These are not my pictures but it shows the technique.Interesting. Why only the beam type? Is this in checking the rotating torque of 10-25 inch pounds?
Well I went to the TSM to understand the whys- --and -wherefores of this, and your comments and pictures made the technique understandable for me. Seems the more I hang around here, the more I learn. I might even learn enough to be dangerous some day..)). Thanks for the information.Yes, you have to check the amount of bearing preload drag using the wrench while rotating the pinion. A click type wont do that accurately as it only checks the amount of torque to overcome the initial drag which is higher than the rotating drag. These are not my pictures but it shows the technique.
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50 plus years of auto and Jeep knowledge at your service - the accumulative knowledge of the site is in the hundreds of centuries!Well I went to the TSM to understand the whys- --and -wherefores of this, and your comments and pictures made the technique understandable for me. Seems the more I hang around here, the more I learn. I might even learn enough to be dangerous some day..)). Thanks for the information.
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